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Yeah, I drove for some time to test it. I had the battery disconnected multiple times and just let the car idle. The throttle body is cleaned regularly, so no worries there. Thanks…
I just purchased the scanner, so no, not on the Lancer. I tested the device on our other vehicle and it works. The scanner does indeed power and cycles through the software, but fails to give an error message or connect at all.
Yep, this is for sure. I did disconnect the negative terminal before installation, but I forgot about the removal of the fuse after I reconnected the negative side. So yeah, oops on my part…
Yep, this is for sure. I did disconnect the negative terminal before installation, but I forgot about the removal of the fuse after I reconnected the negative side. So yeah, oops on my part…
After measuring the circuit, along with others, I found that I was happy with the evidence and inserted the fuse back without disconnecting the NEG battery terminal. I found no short or grounding issue, so I figured I could safely install the fuse again. I heard very, very small crackle – but it wasn’t anything to be worried about. Tested the CD receiver with the engine on, visually checked the circuit/fuse and I was happy with it.
After measuring the circuit, along with others, I found that I was happy with the evidence and inserted the fuse back without disconnecting the NEG battery terminal. I found no short or grounding issue, so I figured I could safely install the fuse again. I heard very, very small crackle – but it wasn’t anything to be worried about. Tested the CD receiver with the engine on, visually checked the circuit/fuse and I was happy with it.
Thanks for replying! I didn’t have the key turned, nor inserted at anytime during my instillation. I figured it was semi-normal for the fuse slot (controls the dome lights, door switches, and radio). The slot itself, I believe, is hot (read 12v) most of the time. That’s normal, no? Should I just disconnect the NEG battery terminal, reconnect the fuse, and reconnect the NEG terminal?
Thanks for replying! I didn’t have the key turned, nor inserted at anytime during my instillation. I figured it was semi-normal for the fuse slot (controls the dome lights, door switches, and radio). The slot itself, I believe, is hot (read 12v) most of the time. That’s normal, no? Should I just disconnect the NEG battery terminal, reconnect the fuse, and reconnect the NEG terminal?
I’m not an expert, but I’ve never seen a Toyota with black or darker transmission fluid. Again, not an expert, but I think the fluid is burnt…
I’m not an expert, but I’ve never seen a Toyota with black or darker transmission fluid. Again, not an expert, but I think the fluid is burnt…
Hey everyone! I’m sorry about the late reply, but I thought I would update everyone about my issue.
I had to wait a few days due to rain on the coast, but I managed to get my mount replaced and engine lifted! I can’t thank you all enough for the wonderful advice that I received, as it helped greatly during the car repair. I used my old ALLDATAdiy account to study the issue and had one of those “light bulb” moments. The engine has an engine mount strut bracket bolted to it, which of course, helps secure the strut mount to the frame. I decided to look around under the car a bit more and noticed the bracket, along with the lower mount, were dirty beyond belief. Thus, I decided to remove the strut mount to see if I could lift the bracket from the frame – as they were touching a bit. This was my issue! I had a heck of a time lifting it, so I used my pry bar, PB Blaster, and a bit of brake cleaner to remove all the crud from the frame, bracket, etc. Once cleaned up a bit, I got the engine to lift a bit via my pry bar, so I used my jack to see if I could jack it higher. I placed it under the smaller bracket with two holes (where the mount is bolted for automatic or manual). It took a bit of play, but that sucker lifted nicely once it was cleaned and scraped a bit more. I managed to attach my upper motor mount with no issue after that and replaced the strut mount (since I had a new one on hand) as well! Once again, thank you all so much for the help!
-Del
tl;dr: The engine mount strut was caked onto the frame, causing lifting issues. Once cleaned and scraped, I was able to lift the engine via the smaller bracket with two holes.
Sorry for your trouble. I saw that you were in Detroit and looked at various sites for your transmission oil pan. I’m sadden to say that I failed to find one near you. You could order one online, have one special delivered at a part store, or find one used. US Auto Supply, Inc. in Detroit has a used, late model pan for sale. Not sure how the condition is, but it’s an opinion at $35. Rockauto has two: one for $19 and the other at ~$35.
Well, here’s an update:
I’ve tried everything that has been suggested, but I still cannot lift the engine. I only need a few inches on the backside of the engine to lift up, but nothing will work. I did find a strap buried deep in my garage (score!), which was used to pull the engine forward. Although when I still try to jack the engine up from the oil pan, it only lifts the car. I have, along with other person, checked the engine for any binding and navigated the jack around to various (safe) places to jack. Thus, it has been fruitless. I was toying with the idea of renting an engine lift, but the only company we have locally will only rent to businesses. I’m at a loss…
Quoted From jesse166062:
you may have to get a second set of hands to operate the jack while you pull the engine forward.
Thanks for replying, jessel. I agree with you completely. I haven’t been able to work on it today, but I will in about half an hour or so. Hopefully I can get that sucker by the end of the night. Cross your fingers!
Quoted From 619DioFan:
If the body of the car is raising as you try to jack the motor then something is binding. first make sure that the jack/wood block are not pushing against the edge of the k-member ( sub frame what ever you refer to it as ) next make sure the lower pulley is not hanging up on anything. did the engine rock backwards twords the firewall ? if so make sure it is not caught up on anything. if it rocked back aways you can hook a ratchet strap ( motorcycle strap ) to the motor and then to the radiator support and pull it twords the radiator. check these things out and keep us posted.
Hey DioFan, thanks for replying.
I did catch the k-member with the wood at first, but I readjusted the piece of wood once I found my mistake. I removed the bolts to the inner splash shield and looked around, but I found nothing grabbing onto the pulley, nor engine. I may relook at this tomorrow, as it was dusk and I didn’t have the best of light (I know, I’m lazy for not grabbing my light!). When I removed the final bolts, the engine popped, as the pressure was released, and the engine fell to the back. I can rock the engine forward with ease, but the main issue is lifting it to attach the bolts. Thanks for your suggestions.