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[quote=”barneyb” post=95428]
One of the problems for a DIYer is the mess. An automatic transmission bleeds like a large dying animal as you disassemble. [/quote]Okay, I’m all about the serious learning because I simply love auto repair. Your truthful, yet incredibly funny comment was not only wonderful, but easily translated to my wife. We laughed thank you.
[quote=”wysetech” post=95661]The issue with the speedometer is a good clue. If the transmission computer is not seeing an accurate speed the trans doesn’t know when and how to shift. It’s possible it only has a bad speed sensor and you could replace that yourself.
If could also have other issues caused by a bad speed sensor that you can’t repair.[/quote]I was thinking about that through the comments. The transmission needs to see how fast the car is going to function right. I wondered what that entailed and I think you completed my thinking, thank you.
[quote=”wysetech” post=95661]The issue with the speedometer is a good clue. If the transmission computer is not seeing an accurate speed the trans doesn’t know when and how to shift. It’s possible it only has a bad speed sensor and you could replace that yourself.
If could also have other issues caused by a bad speed sensor that you can’t repair.[/quote]I was thinking about that through the comments. The transmission needs to see how fast the car is going to function right. I wondered what that entailed and I think you completed my thinking, thank you.
[quote=”elgiro15″ post=49628]hey thank for replying this was one of the first thing I did. To be honest with you everytime I work on the car I always double check the hoses for crack etc. I even one time took it for smoke test nothing brother..no leak. IAC was also replace because it went bad.[/quote]
What’s an IAC?
[quote=”elgiro15″ post=49628]hey thank for replying this was one of the first thing I did. To be honest with you everytime I work on the car I always double check the hoses for crack etc. I even one time took it for smoke test nothing brother..no leak. IAC was also replace because it went bad.[/quote]
What’s an IAC?
[quote=”AutoBravado.com” post=95152]@barneyb and thanking him for thinking about one or the other being bad rather than the whole thing.
I found some *struts for sale that was a lowering kit downgrade (my words aren’t mistaken) that for every inch drop they hold an additional 125 pounds. [/quote]
I added a star while quoting myself, I meant to say shock here.
[quote=”AutoBravado.com” post=95152]@barneyb and thanking him for thinking about one or the other being bad rather than the whole thing.
I found some *struts for sale that was a lowering kit downgrade (my words aren’t mistaken) that for every inch drop they hold an additional 125 pounds. [/quote]
I added a star while quoting myself, I meant to say shock here.
@barneyb and thanking him for thinking about one or the other being bad rather than the whole thing.
Thanks, looking at my rear suspension again, honestly the struts from 7 years ago still have great return on them, so really I may have been downing Monroe struts when it’s just that the springs, shocks, have been older since 7 years ago and that’s what I really needed to replace back then…granted that was a long time ago, the struts may not have been “well” back then either, I don’t remember. But remember this, I’m certain that Monroe quality while good, is below OE standards. My dad, rest his soul, had a nearly new Toyota Corolla, and those struts performed much better. Remember also that for my car the higher end Monroe struts aren’t available, this is an analysis of their sensotrac from 7 years ago (my front struts are newly installed from product bought that long ago), which I believe they now call economatic.
The Moog is what I’m leaning toward most. I found their shocks alone for about $80 and since only $34 more dollars replaces everything, I think the ready strut is simply the best deal. I’ll hold on to the old struts just because they aren’t actually bad.
Something surprising. The Moog drops an inch for about every 800 lbs. I found some struts for sale that was a lowering kit downgrade (my words aren’t mistaken) that for every inch drop they hold an additional 125 pounds. Wow…they’re too low to get my tires flat on the road already and now with no weight at all it’ll be worse? Finding the pounds/in. on shocks has turned out to be very difficult, but since the Moog is amazing, my decision is made. (One of my concerns for a long time is that I like to load up the car a lot when traveling with my family, I needed heavier duty springs. Since I can’t find how much pounds per inch on the OE, I guess I’ll just find out after installation what’s up.)
If it’s months before I report back on the results, don’t be alarmed, I’m just waiting on the IRS to have the funds to proceed with my plan.
@barneyb and thanking him for thinking about one or the other being bad rather than the whole thing.
Thanks, looking at my rear suspension again, honestly the struts from 7 years ago still have great return on them, so really I may have been downing Monroe struts when it’s just that the springs, shocks, have been older since 7 years ago and that’s what I really needed to replace back then…granted that was a long time ago, the struts may not have been “well” back then either, I don’t remember. But remember this, I’m certain that Monroe quality while good, is below OE standards. My dad, rest his soul, had a nearly new Toyota Corolla, and those struts performed much better. Remember also that for my car the higher end Monroe struts aren’t available, this is an analysis of their sensotrac from 7 years ago (my front struts are newly installed from product bought that long ago), which I believe they now call economatic.
The Moog is what I’m leaning toward most. I found their shocks alone for about $80 and since only $34 more dollars replaces everything, I think the ready strut is simply the best deal. I’ll hold on to the old struts just because they aren’t actually bad.
Something surprising. The Moog drops an inch for about every 800 lbs. I found some struts for sale that was a lowering kit downgrade (my words aren’t mistaken) that for every inch drop they hold an additional 125 pounds. Wow…they’re too low to get my tires flat on the road already and now with no weight at all it’ll be worse? Finding the pounds/in. on shocks has turned out to be very difficult, but since the Moog is amazing, my decision is made. (One of my concerns for a long time is that I like to load up the car a lot when traveling with my family, I needed heavier duty springs. Since I can’t find how much pounds per inch on the OE, I guess I’ll just find out after installation what’s up.)
If it’s months before I report back on the results, don’t be alarmed, I’m just waiting on the IRS to have the funds to proceed with my plan.
[quote=”college man” post=42541]here are some links for troubleshooting.
http://www.obd-codes.com/p0440
http://www.obd-codes.com/p0441
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dfj-F_pTj5M%5B/quote%5D
I learned a lot from that video and links thank you.
[quote=”college man” post=42541]here are some links for troubleshooting.
http://www.obd-codes.com/p0440
http://www.obd-codes.com/p0441
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dfj-F_pTj5M%5B/quote%5D
I learned a lot from that video and links thank you.
[quote=”redfury” post=218]As far as the line goes, you don’t have to use the one on the new intake if the purpose is already resolved by the intake manifold. All that hose is there for is to allow the engine block to circulate air through the PCV valve and back into the intake. You are better off having the non PCV side of the system either being dumped into your air cleaner box or after the throttle body to avoid things from getting mucked up with oil residue.[/quote]
Leaving it stock, I’m not sure how he could do that. It’s going to go in before the throttle body but after the air clearer, if my experience serves. Yes, it’ll get sort of an “oil dust” look on the throttle body after a while. I recently bought throttle body cleaner and it cleaned right up easily. My throttle body looked clean before my K&N Air filter at about 80k to 90k, so maybe oil based filters do make more of a mess…but hey the K&N Air Filter got me a few miles per gallon and is cheaper in the long run. I don’t think it’s a big deal to just clean the throttle body now that I’ve done it 85k later.
[quote=”redfury” post=218]As far as the line goes, you don’t have to use the one on the new intake if the purpose is already resolved by the intake manifold. All that hose is there for is to allow the engine block to circulate air through the PCV valve and back into the intake. You are better off having the non PCV side of the system either being dumped into your air cleaner box or after the throttle body to avoid things from getting mucked up with oil residue.[/quote]
Leaving it stock, I’m not sure how he could do that. It’s going to go in before the throttle body but after the air clearer, if my experience serves. Yes, it’ll get sort of an “oil dust” look on the throttle body after a while. I recently bought throttle body cleaner and it cleaned right up easily. My throttle body looked clean before my K&N Air filter at about 80k to 90k, so maybe oil based filters do make more of a mess…but hey the K&N Air Filter got me a few miles per gallon and is cheaper in the long run. I don’t think it’s a big deal to just clean the throttle body now that I’ve done it 85k later.
The following is based on my experience, of having just installed a Weapon R Dragon intake on my 1999 Chevy Prizm.
I installed a short ram intake that was designed specifically for my car. The OE maf sensor fit perfectly into the Weapon R intake. The hose from my evap system got connected in via a hose they sent me to reach the new location. Everything looked perfect.
Anyone worried yet? Yes, the directions with the intake were kind of hard to follow, but everything logically went together. Within 2 days I had all kinds of EVAP codes on my Check Engine Light (CEL). I thought, well, I had an EVAP code for 9 years that I couldn’t resolve, until I saw under my factory air box the disconnected/broken hose. Shouldn’t this have fixed it?
A couple weeks later of following the Weapon R instructions to not really step on it, to warm up the car first, I managed to drive over 300 miles with no incident. My early morning drive to work and the codes were back (I thought maybe it was the cold air). Lots of reading on forums later, one key phrase stood out. This series of EVAP codes can be caused by the EVAP system not being grounded.
Duh!
I had pulled all these grounded EVAP systems off my original air box and had not re-grounded them to the car.
So, long story short, if Weapon R designed it for your car, I think find everything hooks in right, but be prepared for my solution. Put a bolt through your flailing EVAP system components, hook them up to a grounding wire and hook them to ground.
I look forward to giving further feedback when I drive enough to see if my solution worked. At that time, I’ll also include the P codes, I didn’t want to guess, I have a print out of them, but they aren’t right on hand. Okay, an incomplete list from my phone pic’s, I have print outs to share more of them later: P0420 P0446 P0441. The last 2 refer to the EVAP system purge flow. Hopefully, now that they’re grounded they’ll be “happy”. 🙂 The P0420, I still worry if it’ll come up due the short ram air intake getting more air in my car…anyone have experience with that? Thanks to a fancier OBD II at AutoZone, I saw the system believes my O2 sensor bank 1, or the upriver 02 sensor, is in working order, but it is noticing a problem. I have about 110k to 120k miles on that sensor though. . . or is it 90k miles? I’m at 165k miles now so it’s been a while.
The following is based on my experience, of having just installed a Weapon R Dragon intake on my 1999 Chevy Prizm.
I installed a short ram intake that was designed specifically for my car. The OE maf sensor fit perfectly into the Weapon R intake. The hose from my evap system got connected in via a hose they sent me to reach the new location. Everything looked perfect.
Anyone worried yet? Yes, the directions with the intake were kind of hard to follow, but everything logically went together. Within 2 days I had all kinds of EVAP codes on my Check Engine Light (CEL). I thought, well, I had an EVAP code for 9 years that I couldn’t resolve, until I saw under my factory air box the disconnected/broken hose. Shouldn’t this have fixed it?
A couple weeks later of following the Weapon R instructions to not really step on it, to warm up the car first, I managed to drive over 300 miles with no incident. My early morning drive to work and the codes were back (I thought maybe it was the cold air). Lots of reading on forums later, one key phrase stood out. This series of EVAP codes can be caused by the EVAP system not being grounded.
Duh!
I had pulled all these grounded EVAP systems off my original air box and had not re-grounded them to the car.
So, long story short, if Weapon R designed it for your car, I think find everything hooks in right, but be prepared for my solution. Put a bolt through your flailing EVAP system components, hook them up to a grounding wire and hook them to ground.
I look forward to giving further feedback when I drive enough to see if my solution worked. At that time, I’ll also include the P codes, I didn’t want to guess, I have a print out of them, but they aren’t right on hand. Okay, an incomplete list from my phone pic’s, I have print outs to share more of them later: P0420 P0446 P0441. The last 2 refer to the EVAP system purge flow. Hopefully, now that they’re grounded they’ll be “happy”. 🙂 The P0420, I still worry if it’ll come up due the short ram air intake getting more air in my car…anyone have experience with that? Thanks to a fancier OBD II at AutoZone, I saw the system believes my O2 sensor bank 1, or the upriver 02 sensor, is in working order, but it is noticing a problem. I have about 110k to 120k miles on that sensor though. . . or is it 90k miles? I’m at 165k miles now so it’s been a while.