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[quote=”InsyleM” post=128680]Well, I see you have a lift now!
Congrats![/quote]I can see how you might think that seeing the lift above your comment. That’s actually a video by someone other than Ericthecarguy.
[quote=”dretech27″ post=126635]Hey eric how many spays should i spray into the intake from a spray bottle on a 92 honda accord coupe ex 2.2[/quote]
Guessing from my experience the amount of water you use is highly dependent on the vehicle. Like I said, on my car, I used very little water. This was the first time I did the treatment. The next time I used a couple ounces of water sprayed in. This took several minutes. Barely using any water the first time took 10 to 15 minutes. I only used as much water as the car could use and keep running, if a bit rough.
Just raise the RPM with the throttle and it makes it easy to deliver the water a little faster without the engine struggling.
My truck on the other hand has a lot more displacement with a 3.3 liter V6 so I used half of that 21 oz. water in a few minutes. It’s all about how the engine can take it.
[quote=”DarkViggen” post=117447]850 & S70/V70 -2000 :
– ABS/TRACS module stops working (cold solder problem)- This one is an easy fix, you need to remove the module and find someone who will solder the circuit again
– Heater unit – maybe it’s not very common, but happens more usual than in other cars.
– odometer – plastic gear inside the odometer breaks when near ~267.000kmS60, S80, V70 2000-2007
-Throttle body failure
-Stop Light relay – when it breaks only the 3rd stop light on the window works
-Automatic Transmission – often they wear out becouse of the ‘sealed for life’ policy, remeber : ALWAYS CHANGE YOUR TRASMISSION FLUID IN A VOLVO or SAAB…also there was a problem with the software[/quote]Schrodingers Box has a YouTube channel where the throttle was a problem on a Volvo. And yes, if it’s sealed from service…I must defeat it! Those engineers made a car I bought very young into my automotive days take 17 hours to change the transmission fluid. It broke every pump I tried to put the fluid into that “nonservicable” transmission because of back pressure.
No matter how little I pumped and the relieved the air, I couldn’t tell if I made progress as air pressure dumped fluid back out. 🙁
If I were to do it over, I might drop the transmission, turn it upside down and poor fluid into it’s easy exit bolt. Once it was right side up again and installed, I could take out it’s screw on the side which is the “fill line” and let it drip until it was correctly filled. (3 quarts for a 2 quart manual transmission and 17 hours of milking a tiny O2 plastic tube meant to deliver air into a humans nose I had success. The whole was that small! :whistle: )
[quote=”DarkViggen” post=117447]850 & S70/V70 -2000 :
– ABS/TRACS module stops working (cold solder problem)- This one is an easy fix, you need to remove the module and find someone who will solder the circuit again
– Heater unit – maybe it’s not very common, but happens more usual than in other cars.
– odometer – plastic gear inside the odometer breaks when near ~267.000kmS60, S80, V70 2000-2007
-Throttle body failure
-Stop Light relay – when it breaks only the 3rd stop light on the window works
-Automatic Transmission – often they wear out becouse of the ‘sealed for life’ policy, remeber : ALWAYS CHANGE YOUR TRASMISSION FLUID IN A VOLVO or SAAB…also there was a problem with the software[/quote]Schrodingers Box has a YouTube channel where the throttle was a problem on a Volvo. And yes, if it’s sealed from service…I must defeat it! Those engineers made a car I bought very young into my automotive days take 17 hours to change the transmission fluid. It broke every pump I tried to put the fluid into that “nonservicable” transmission because of back pressure.
No matter how little I pumped and the relieved the air, I couldn’t tell if I made progress as air pressure dumped fluid back out. 🙁
If I were to do it over, I might drop the transmission, turn it upside down and poor fluid into it’s easy exit bolt. Once it was right side up again and installed, I could take out it’s screw on the side which is the “fill line” and let it drip until it was correctly filled. (3 quarts for a 2 quart manual transmission and 17 hours of milking a tiny O2 plastic tube meant to deliver air into a humans nose I had success. The whole was that small! :whistle: )
[quote=”wysetech” post=107656]I have done the water thing before but not much since leaded fuel. The guy who showed me how to do it used to rev the snot outta the engine while dumping the water into the engine quickly. I think I was 18 at the time so what did I know.
My feeling is that water can remove hard carbon that can possibly score cylinder walls where as a petroleum based cleaner will soften the carbon that will not do damage.
The only thing I have ever used that I have proven to work is combustion chamber cleaner such as G.M. Cleens. ( I think they call it upper engine cleaner now) It was explained to me years ago that carbon builds in layers and that combustion chamber cleaner softens the substance that binds the layers together.
Might be a load of crap too.
I have had several G. M. 2.4 quad engines that have failed Nox emissions. I remove the plugs and spray combustion chamber cleaner into the plug holes and let it set over night. In the morning I crank the engine to pump out the excess cleaner, install the plugs, start the engine end empty the rest of the can into the throttle body with the engine at a fast idle. After a smokey road test they pass Nox emissions 99% of the time.
I figure there must be something to it.
It’s also great for removing rust on the cylinder walls of an engine that has seized from sitting idle for a extended period of time. Good penetrating oil for softening rust on fasteners as well.[/quote]
I really enjoyed this post! Thank you. If you could check on the current name of the product, I tried looking it up to read the MSDS like I have on a ton of cleaners lately.
[quote=”wysetech” post=107656]I have done the water thing before but not much since leaded fuel. The guy who showed me how to do it used to rev the snot outta the engine while dumping the water into the engine quickly. I think I was 18 at the time so what did I know.
My feeling is that water can remove hard carbon that can possibly score cylinder walls where as a petroleum based cleaner will soften the carbon that will not do damage.
The only thing I have ever used that I have proven to work is combustion chamber cleaner such as G.M. Cleens. ( I think they call it upper engine cleaner now) It was explained to me years ago that carbon builds in layers and that combustion chamber cleaner softens the substance that binds the layers together.
Might be a load of crap too.
I have had several G. M. 2.4 quad engines that have failed Nox emissions. I remove the plugs and spray combustion chamber cleaner into the plug holes and let it set over night. In the morning I crank the engine to pump out the excess cleaner, install the plugs, start the engine end empty the rest of the can into the throttle body with the engine at a fast idle. After a smokey road test they pass Nox emissions 99% of the time.
I figure there must be something to it.
It’s also great for removing rust on the cylinder walls of an engine that has seized from sitting idle for a extended period of time. Good penetrating oil for softening rust on fasteners as well.[/quote]
I really enjoyed this post! Thank you. If you could check on the current name of the product, I tried looking it up to read the MSDS like I have on a ton of cleaners lately.
I wasn’t sure if there would be much interest so I didn’t post much, but I have much more to say.
After the treatment, with less water than I could even notice. It still appeared to be about the same height over the max line of 21 oz as it was before. I spent 10-15 minutes giving the engine as much water as it could take with only struggling a little and then keeping the throttle up to maybe 1,500 until it “cleared it’s throat” again. (I of course had the engine at normal operating temperature first.)
I did have one other consequence. I needed an oil change. My oil right before the test looked used but still had some clean/clear oil to it. Typical of my full synthetic Mobile 1 with extended performance oil filter at 4,500 to 4,700 miles since the last oil change.
I normally change the oil at about 5,500 miles since that’s a turning point that I can feel in performance and how clean the oil looks, but after the decarbonization it was time to change the oil immediately. It no longer looked clear at all and looked just like fully synthetic Mobile 1 that wasn’t the extended forumla at 4,500 miles.
So, I needed an early oil change, so what, it’s all clean now.
Within a couple weeks some leaks developed on the outside of my new fuel injectors ruining them, causing misfires. Some fighting with that later and everything working again, I thought misfires can’t be good for cylinder cleanliness and went to using a water spray bottle again. No difference. No dirty oil. No loss in spark plug gap and spark sounded even across the engine.
So, I think it takes a lot of driving to need to do it again. I’m sure it made some small indiscernible difference. If only I had a bore scope. 🙂
Not having the oil get dirty again may or may not be a determining factor. My oil was already getting close to the time to change it and it may not have needeed much to go over the edge, though visually it seemed like a big deal.
The new oil filter may have been more able to handle any cleaning that happened on the 2nd go. No scientific way to say one way or the other.
I wasn’t sure if there would be much interest so I didn’t post much, but I have much more to say.
After the treatment, with less water than I could even notice. It still appeared to be about the same height over the max line of 21 oz as it was before. I spent 10-15 minutes giving the engine as much water as it could take with only struggling a little and then keeping the throttle up to maybe 1,500 until it “cleared it’s throat” again. (I of course had the engine at normal operating temperature first.)
I did have one other consequence. I needed an oil change. My oil right before the test looked used but still had some clean/clear oil to it. Typical of my full synthetic Mobile 1 with extended performance oil filter at 4,500 to 4,700 miles since the last oil change.
I normally change the oil at about 5,500 miles since that’s a turning point that I can feel in performance and how clean the oil looks, but after the decarbonization it was time to change the oil immediately. It no longer looked clear at all and looked just like fully synthetic Mobile 1 that wasn’t the extended forumla at 4,500 miles.
So, I needed an early oil change, so what, it’s all clean now.
Within a couple weeks some leaks developed on the outside of my new fuel injectors ruining them, causing misfires. Some fighting with that later and everything working again, I thought misfires can’t be good for cylinder cleanliness and went to using a water spray bottle again. No difference. No dirty oil. No loss in spark plug gap and spark sounded even across the engine.
So, I think it takes a lot of driving to need to do it again. I’m sure it made some small indiscernible difference. If only I had a bore scope. 🙂
Not having the oil get dirty again may or may not be a determining factor. My oil was already getting close to the time to change it and it may not have needeed much to go over the edge, though visually it seemed like a big deal.
The new oil filter may have been more able to handle any cleaning that happened on the 2nd go. No scientific way to say one way or the other.
[quote=”AutoBravado.com” post=115463]You’re welcome Chevyman21. The increase in efficiency was admitted, it was quite slight, but I’m a tracker of MPG and it’s not hard to find online calculators that’ll use what you pay for gas, how far you drive, and your mpg. Using that with real numbers, I synthesized numbers based on the increases they claimed, figured in my 5.5k mile oil change, and found it to be as I described in general terms.
By the way, for me to see fairly clean oil at that distance, requires Mobile 1’s extended performance “15k mile” formula and their extended filter. I need to change my oil at 4.5-4.75k miles if I use the regular synthetic formula.
I heard a comment recently by a auto-technician that he’s seen a few new BMW’s with the supposed 15k mile oil change with sludged up engines in need of engine repair. NEW BMW’s.[/quote]
By the way, I used Mobile’s listed no.’s for how much improvement I’d theoretically get versus their regular synthetic formula. I lasered in on details like that to be sure they weren’t claiming it versus conventional oil. I get a very useable and cost effective increase in MPG from going synthetic. Castrol’s Edge seems to be undescribabbly different for me thatn Mobile 1. I just happen to find Mobile 1 on sale more often, lol. I think my oil change interval match their price reduction sales. lol
Chevyman21, if you’re vehicles have shown you what they like, then if you ask me, that’s all a person can do. 🙂
Rereonehundred, you did that math on how fluid flows! Jealous! 🙂 Wait…I did fluidic Calculus in high school. I just never applied it to oil…let alone the complexity of all the factors in an engine. Wow…did you just do general oil flow equations or taking all the different points of an engine into an account to?
[quote=”AutoBravado.com” post=115463]You’re welcome Chevyman21. The increase in efficiency was admitted, it was quite slight, but I’m a tracker of MPG and it’s not hard to find online calculators that’ll use what you pay for gas, how far you drive, and your mpg. Using that with real numbers, I synthesized numbers based on the increases they claimed, figured in my 5.5k mile oil change, and found it to be as I described in general terms.
By the way, for me to see fairly clean oil at that distance, requires Mobile 1’s extended performance “15k mile” formula and their extended filter. I need to change my oil at 4.5-4.75k miles if I use the regular synthetic formula.
I heard a comment recently by a auto-technician that he’s seen a few new BMW’s with the supposed 15k mile oil change with sludged up engines in need of engine repair. NEW BMW’s.[/quote]
By the way, I used Mobile’s listed no.’s for how much improvement I’d theoretically get versus their regular synthetic formula. I lasered in on details like that to be sure they weren’t claiming it versus conventional oil. I get a very useable and cost effective increase in MPG from going synthetic. Castrol’s Edge seems to be undescribabbly different for me thatn Mobile 1. I just happen to find Mobile 1 on sale more often, lol. I think my oil change interval match their price reduction sales. lol
Chevyman21, if you’re vehicles have shown you what they like, then if you ask me, that’s all a person can do. 🙂
Rereonehundred, you did that math on how fluid flows! Jealous! 🙂 Wait…I did fluidic Calculus in high school. I just never applied it to oil…let alone the complexity of all the factors in an engine. Wow…did you just do general oil flow equations or taking all the different points of an engine into an account to?
You’re welcome Chevyman21. The increase in efficiency was admitted, it was quite slight, but I’m a tracker of MPG and it’s not hard to find online calculators that’ll use what you pay for gas, how far you drive, and your mpg. Using that with real numbers, I synthesized numbers based on the increases they claimed, figured in my 5.5k mile oil change, and found it to be as I described in general terms.
By the way, for me to see fairly clean oil at that distance, requires Mobile 1’s extended performance “15k mile” formula and their extended filter. I need to change my oil at 4.5-4.75k miles if I use the regular synthetic formula.
I heard a comment recently by a auto-technician that he’s seen a few new BMW’s with the supposed 15k mile oil change with sludged up engines in need of engine repair. NEW BMW’s.
You’re welcome Chevyman21. The increase in efficiency was admitted, it was quite slight, but I’m a tracker of MPG and it’s not hard to find online calculators that’ll use what you pay for gas, how far you drive, and your mpg. Using that with real numbers, I synthesized numbers based on the increases they claimed, figured in my 5.5k mile oil change, and found it to be as I described in general terms.
By the way, for me to see fairly clean oil at that distance, requires Mobile 1’s extended performance “15k mile” formula and their extended filter. I need to change my oil at 4.5-4.75k miles if I use the regular synthetic formula.
I heard a comment recently by a auto-technician that he’s seen a few new BMW’s with the supposed 15k mile oil change with sludged up engines in need of engine repair. NEW BMW’s.
There was one consequence, it ungapped 1 spark plug. I could hear it was off when I carefully listened to each cylinder via the intake runners. As always, when doing spark plugs or gaps, just because one cylinder sounds off, doesn’t mean that cylinder has the problem. No. 2 cylinder sounded slow, but no. 3 was just too tightly gapped reflecting on what No. 2 sounded like as an effect and not the cause.
So, I know our forum is usually more about questions, then answers, but the results were so good, that I had to share!
There was one consequence, it ungapped 1 spark plug. I could hear it was off when I carefully listened to each cylinder via the intake runners. As always, when doing spark plugs or gaps, just because one cylinder sounds off, doesn’t mean that cylinder has the problem. No. 2 cylinder sounded slow, but no. 3 was just too tightly gapped reflecting on what No. 2 sounded like as an effect and not the cause.
So, I know our forum is usually more about questions, then answers, but the results were so good, that I had to share!
I had a VERY happy day today. I finally got around to getting a plastic bottle that I could mist water with.
I wanted to try what Eric did on the Ford Fairlane, by very slowly, pouring small amounts of water in his carburetor.
I did the “equivalent” on my fuel injected engine after it was warmed up.
Thinking about how my MAF failed after I cleaned it with MAF cleaner and let it dry for a 1/2 hour versus longer drying time the previous time . . . I decided fogging my intake before the MAF was not an option. EVAP flow also, nearly, pointed right after the MAF, so I chose the hose form my valve cover to just the throttle, removed it, and carefully, slowly misted water in.
I got a little more aggressive as it seemed to be going well, especially with a little throttle added (1/7 of my idle speed was down from the engine not getting as much blow by gasses.).
In the end I spent some minutes or maybe 15 minutes doing this, and I hadn’t moved an ounce of water down the bottle.
Prior to this, I had a leaking no. 1 fuel injector. I replaced the fuel injectors, but not all the symptoms were gone. My metal intake on cylinder no. 1 was 8 degrees Celsius hotter than the other intakes (60 degrees versus 52 degrees, honestly no. 4 tended to look a little hot on my L4 LSI engine from a 2000 Chevy Prizm). Before and after the new fuel injectors the problem remained unchanged. I believed this was caused by carbon deposits in that chamber from an injector that could have been leaking a long time.
Even if the PCM wasn’t retarding the timing to compensate for predetonation on that cylinder, the higher compression ratio would have that cylinder hotter.
After misting water in, all cylinders appeared, as close as I could measure with my infrared thermometer ran nearly identical temperatures.
I took the car for a spin and the engine was incredibly smoother! Granted, I’ve never been to a Dyno, but I feed my *Torque App all the information on my car, and in the past have verified my speedometer with GPS speedometers, so I leave GPS off now, and I went from 110 HP to 115 wheel horse power! (As far as I can tell, just getting up to legal speed on a 75 mph freeway.)
When I got back, long after any water was introduced, I checked with my laser pointed thermometer and got the same results. 🙂
* (Bluetooth android app that connects via an OBD II port)