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Yeah thats not cool, shit happens hey, if i’m understanding this right you have a peice of straw floating around your rocker cover? My best suggestion would be tip, wiggle, shake, with a little compressed air should blow it out somewhere
I started when i was 18, and am just about to complete my 4th year at a dealer, i can see why people get burned out, but its really about what you put in to the job is what you’ll get out.
And yeah there are some real crap techs around but no ones perfect. As has been said experience is the key, you can have all the schooling in thr world but when it comes down to it not know how to put it into practice.
The thing i personally hate the most is the directors of the dealer i work for only care about money, not that the staff are getting worked off their feet trying to push through 26 cars with 2 qualified mechanics and 4 apprentices
You won’t be dissapointed mate, they cost the earth but it’s worth it, the dual 80 will come in so handy in a tight spot. Mines proved pretty indestructable for 3 years, and its not a tool i use lightly
Yeah i’d probably use a ratchet or air ratchet for torx/allen stuff, some bolts are so shallow and don’t take much to strip
Get out now while you still can
Just kidding, learn, take notice, be respectful of others, learn the persons job above you, get some tools, and try and not be known as ” that guy ” for anything and double check your work, and don’t be afraid to ask questions even if you think there stupid
Hey mate,
I’m working at a dealer in Australia as a 4th year apprentice, i started here as a 1st.
Theres alot of politics and egos in any shop, but its really down to your own personallity and how you deal with them as to how the’ll be treated by the others.
In my particulat work shop we get thrown in the deep end as an apprentice which makes you learn everything, i’ve done everything from basic servicing ( bread and butter of dealership work ) to things like engine and transmission replacement.
In this industry in Australia we’re paid a salary instead of what sounds like a job to job bases pay over there, so no mattet what your doing that day your still making x an hour
With a dealer you have warranty and brand backing so its generally not as bad if you break something or need some help diagnosing an issue
Yeah naah, even if one pad was for some reason slightly lower than the others the car will only move ever so slightly when its jolted, rather than the whole vehicle/hoist get a bad rock.
It actually turned out that the tracks that the bearings ride on up and down which locate the arms on the posts were dry, gave them a healthy dose of sillicone spray and she’s all good
Unless you got a total heap in the engine i wouldn’t worry about it, chances are it was so dilute it’s not a issue
Next time i’d probably just clean it with a old hacksaw or small razor blade to scrap the junk off as brake cleaner and rubber can be iffy together 🙂
If it is disconnected it’ll be miss firing consistently no matter what your driving conditions are , and there will be a reason why its unplugged itself if that is the cause weather the connectors been molested on either side or misaligned connector pins etc
My best advice, take it to someone with diagnostic equipment for your vehicle make, and don’t mess with it if its still under warranty, that’s what techs get paid for..
If a dealers being difficult take it to another one
Wait wait,so you have a missfire in cylinder 1 with a suspected bad coil? Is the coil pack a single module or are they individual coils over plug with individual connectors? If individual move the coil and see if the missfire moves with it, while it’s out check for cracking, tracking obvious damage, and while your there check the plugs
The car will still run if 1 coil is unplugged but it’ll obviously be spraying raw fuel into the exhaust which can damage your cat and 02 sensors, ( expensive ) and not advisable..
Have you checked the fuel quality? Is it a consistent ? Or just sometimes?
It’s a 3tonne 2 post hoist made by molar engineering, doesn’t matter now anyway, the engineers who service them are gonna look at it
Had a pair of mechanix gloves for a little while which were awesome now i use eaither shop supplies nitrile gloves and a pair of maxi flex gloves from bunnings in Australia, best $10 ever, nothing lasts though, they all eventually rot
take 3 nuts off, leave one a few threads and smack it with a rubber mallet then whip some anti seize on the hub
I work at a Mazda dealer so occasionally we get a modified MPS or rx8/7 and for the most part there alright, generally theres no real deep work done on them ( engine,transmission,turbo etc ) more of the Ooo i can see that lets make it stainless steel or try and make it look pretty, which with dodgy threads or slightly miss matching parts causes problems with Engine Management stuff. We had some bloke try and fit a pod filter on a rx8 with some dodgy stainless intake piping, so much pirate air