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So, my radiator was old and leaking all around the sides so I went ahead and replaced it, the thermostat looked like it had some kind of green residue that I never seen before even on the old aftermarket tstat. It also looked scratched right below the spring where the green thing was, maybe that’s normal? Anyways, that was a new OEM Tstat that I put in about 1 month ago, so I really doubt it’s that or somehow it came faulty. I went to work 15 min drive or so with no issues, I went home and when I was backing up it overheated 1 bar, then back down fairly quickly, I shut off the car. Later that night I went for a drive to see how it acted cause I put in the new radiator, and I bled the coolant with my spill free funnel and I saw the bubbles come out. Driving about 10 min was fine, 1 mile away from my house it overheated coming to a stop, As I drove the temp went down to only 1 bar above normal, but it kept rising even if I picked up speed, I turned on the heater and the temp rose even more! I stopped, shut her off and opened the hood, waited a few min and then turned her on again and observed the fans once again. The fans came on and the car never overheated, stayed like that for a good 10 min with no overheating, I close the hood and As soon as I get in the car it goes up a bar, then back down and sit there for a good 5 min and temp stays normal. I pop it in drive and as I press the gas the temp starts rising fast, And I just went down like 2 houses at like 8 MPH, I’m crying inside at that point. My water pump started to leak about 1 and a half months ago so I had it replaced as well as my timing belt, new radiator/radiator cap, and new thermostat. Fans come on at the right time, Does this leave the head gasket? I don’t lose coolant, No white smoke, compression was even at 180 all across, I don’t know what to check anymore, really. If I have a infrared thermometer what should the top rad hose temperature be once at operating temp? Maybe temp sender is bad? Can it be the thermostat sticking when driving? Water pump was faulty? I have the exhaust manifold heat shield off Idk if that can cause overheating. Any ideas on where to start again?
So, my radiator was old and leaking all around the sides so I went ahead and replaced it, the thermostat looked like it had some kind of green residue that I never seen before even on the old aftermarket tstat. It also looked scratched right below the spring where the green thing was, maybe that’s normal? Anyways, that was a new OEM Tstat that I put in about 1 month ago, so I really doubt it’s that or somehow it came faulty. I went to work 15 min drive or so with no issues, I went home and when I was backing up it overheated 1 bar, then back down fairly quickly, I shut off the car. Later that night I went for a drive to see how it acted cause I put in the new radiator, and I bled the coolant with my spill free funnel and I saw the bubbles come out. Driving about 10 min was fine, 1 mile away from my house it overheated coming to a stop, As I drove the temp went down to only 1 bar above normal, but it kept rising even if I picked up speed, I turned on the heater and the temp rose even more! I stopped, shut her off and opened the hood, waited a few min and then turned her on again and observed the fans once again. The fans came on and the car never overheated, stayed like that for a good 10 min with no overheating, I close the hood and As soon as I get in the car it goes up a bar, then back down and sit there for a good 5 min and temp stays normal. I pop it in drive and as I press the gas the temp starts rising fast, And I just went down like 2 houses at like 8 MPH, I’m crying inside at that point. My water pump started to leak about 1 and a half months ago so I had it replaced as well as my timing belt, new radiator/radiator cap, and new thermostat. Fans come on at the right time, Does this leave the head gasket? I don’t lose coolant, No white smoke, compression was even at 180 all across, I don’t know what to check anymore, really. If I have a infrared thermometer what should the top rad hose temperature be once at operating temp? Maybe temp sender is bad? Can it be the thermostat sticking when driving? Water pump was faulty? I have the exhaust manifold heat shield off Idk if that can cause overheating. Any ideas on where to start again?
Before all this the car would have a rough and low idle, It would idle smoother if the alternator connector was unplugged. I remember about almost a year ago I was driving with a buddy of mine to a restaurant when my CEL came on, When we got there I shut it off and turned it back on, The CEL never came back on. Later I jumped the service connector and got a Code 20 ELD stored in there, but I reset the computer after the CEL came on but a code never came on indicating a Code 20 till I jumped it like 3-4 months later, ECU didn’t think it was a big deal maybe?. I replaced the whole fuse box assembly with no change, but now I wonder if that CEL that came on and never came back had something to do with my idle problem. The TPS was messed with before, but now it has a whole new untouched TPS on it via new throttle body. Before it idled fine no problems, but it did stall once at operating temp, but it is way worse now. Is it possible that the mechanic maybe damaged my ECU? He knows it’s not right to leave a car like that, but he didn’t tell me nothing when I got it back after he changed the IACV. I’m gonna give it one last try and reset the ECU and see what happens.
Before all this the car would have a rough and low idle, It would idle smoother if the alternator connector was unplugged. I remember about almost a year ago I was driving with a buddy of mine to a restaurant when my CEL came on, When we got there I shut it off and turned it back on, The CEL never came back on. Later I jumped the service connector and got a Code 20 ELD stored in there, but I reset the computer after the CEL came on but a code never came on indicating a Code 20 till I jumped it like 3-4 months later, ECU didn’t think it was a big deal maybe?. I replaced the whole fuse box assembly with no change, but now I wonder if that CEL that came on and never came back had something to do with my idle problem. The TPS was messed with before, but now it has a whole new untouched TPS on it via new throttle body. Before it idled fine no problems, but it did stall once at operating temp, but it is way worse now. Is it possible that the mechanic maybe damaged my ECU? He knows it’s not right to leave a car like that, but he didn’t tell me nothing when I got it back after he changed the IACV. I’m gonna give it one last try and reset the ECU and see what happens.
I noticed if I the throttle is closed if I rev it you can hear a loud sucking noise, then stall. But since my car would only run with the throttle open all the time if I plug the IACV hole and let go same thing a loud sucking noise then the idle surges then comes back down, IACV was replaced and it seems my old one wasn’t probably bad after all since it’s pretty much the same symptoms
I noticed if I the throttle is closed if I rev it you can hear a loud sucking noise, then stall. But since my car would only run with the throttle open all the time if I plug the IACV hole and let go same thing a loud sucking noise then the idle surges then comes back down, IACV was replaced and it seems my old one wasn’t probably bad after all since it’s pretty much the same symptoms
I sprayed around the intake manifold with water. I tested the TPS, it read about 0.5V closed and 4.5V Wide open. Which is what Honda calls for I think
I sprayed around the intake manifold with water. I tested the TPS, it read about 0.5V closed and 4.5V Wide open. Which is what Honda calls for I think
So I checked for vacuum leaks and found nothing, but when I took off the distributor cap I noticed the rotor tip was like burnt, so I took it off and I noticed a red coppery powder on back of the rotor and on the plastic shield behind it, I had a spare cap and rotor and I put those on and the hesitation went away I drove it with no problem. The back of the dizzy where the ICM is I didn’t notice the red powdery stuff.It’s not making any noise, yet. I bought the dizzy at autozone you guys think I should replace it? I have warranty on it. Anyways, I closed the throttle and reset the ECU, then I started the car, the idle is low and rough, then as soon as I rev the engine the car stalls, here I have a video. I noticed It’s the same even after the IACV was replaced. I don’t know where to look anymore. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pg8iZ6cKJmg&feature=youtu.be
So I checked for vacuum leaks and found nothing, but when I took off the distributor cap I noticed the rotor tip was like burnt, so I took it off and I noticed a red coppery powder on back of the rotor and on the plastic shield behind it, I had a spare cap and rotor and I put those on and the hesitation went away I drove it with no problem. The back of the dizzy where the ICM is I didn’t notice the red powdery stuff.It’s not making any noise, yet. I bought the dizzy at autozone you guys think I should replace it? I have warranty on it. Anyways, I closed the throttle and reset the ECU, then I started the car, the idle is low and rough, then as soon as I rev the engine the car stalls, here I have a video. I noticed It’s the same even after the IACV was replaced. I don’t know where to look anymore. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pg8iZ6cKJmg&feature=youtu.be