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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KuXCT23oXqg Here’s a video of it. Maybe you can tell a little bit better this way.
Tried 2 different ECU’s and nothing. Someone told me it could be a problem with the EVAP system, but I don’t know where to even start.
The mechanical and ignition timing of the engine have been checked and they are not off. I didn’t mention that I recently swapped this engine with a used engine from japan. My old engine had the same problem. I swapped the intake manifold from my old engine and everything was marked before the swap and rechecked again using a vacuum diagram. I tried to fix this issue when I had my old engine with no luck.
I’m gonna pressure test the system on Sunday and see where the coolant is being lost from. Once I fix the leak I’m gonna bleed the air again and see what happens. I’m gonna see tomorrow morning how low the coolant got. It seems I have to add some every few days. No visible leaks but I do smell coolant when I open the hood, not alot but it’s there.
Alright, So I got most of the fluid out and put in Honda PS fluid, the noise was still there but it was a bit quiter, it kept doing it for about 3-4 days, the car sat for 2 days and It’s been 4 days and the noise is gone now, no more noise (:
I agree with Eric, I have a 94 Prelude and a mechanic messed with my idle screw and the idle became crazy, when I let go of the gas pedal the idle would dip then come back up really quickly, also the engine would rev up and down until eventually it would stall, I took it in to someone else and he adjusted my base idle a bit, no longer revs up and down and idle is where it should be at operating temp.
I got a 5 pack of genuine honda fluid for a good price, might have some left over but it’s good to have if I run low, I’m gonna be doing the flush Wednesday morning. wish me luck lol.
[quote=”EricTheCarGuy” post=137349]If you didn’t install the same engine in the vehicle, this could be the issue. The ECU may still be trying to run the old engine. If that’s the case, no amount of parts swapping is going to solve the problem. You’ll likely need to get an ECU that works with the new engine to solve the problem. Also there is the possibility that something didn’t get hooked up correctly during the engine swap. For that I would recommend going back over all your work to make sure everything was hooked back up correctly. More info here.
http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/solving-automotive-idle-problems
http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/solving-automotive-performance-issues
Good luck and keep us posted.[/quote]
Thanks for your reply, I actually had this problem with the old engine as well, It is the same engine and I used all new intake gaskets and marked every hose and I put everything where they came off of, I tried another ECU and nothing. When this problem first appeared was when I took my old engine (H23A1) to get serviced for a timing belt, when I got it back the engine wasn’t even idling correctly, he told me to replace the throttle body and IACV, throttle was also being kept open, some time later the engine had a head gasket done and I used all new intake gaskets, the throttle can be kept closed but that high idle is still there only when put into gear, that mechanic did something because this didn’t happen before I took the car to him, I thought mechanical timing at first, but I checked it and it was off when I did the head gasket, put it back correctly and still same problem. I used the injectors that came with the new engine just rule that out possibly. I have no CEL so I’m staying away from the MAP, O2, and Coolant temperature sensors. Here’s a video if it, this was with the old engine but the new one is doing the same thing, I was moving the steering wheel because sometimes as I turned it the idle would surge, also surge when A/C was on full blast, It doesn’t do it as much with the new engine, but still does it then it sorts itself out, but see how the idle climbs when I put it into gear, I need to get this fixed so I can get it smogged, thanks in advance. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V8PjhYym374
It’s been awhile, but the problem is gone for good, the headgasket was leaking under load, whenever I was cruising or at idle, the temp would rise to H very quickly, and down quickly, and repeat. I decided to do the headgasket myself, with help on the side. Took us 5 days, but ensured everything was put back correctly and torqued down correctly. The car no longer overheats. A cheap headgasket was used by the PO. I don’t know what was going on, but it seemed the headgasket leaked some oil?
[IMG]http://i61.tinypic.com/v64qp3.jpg[/IMG]Just like it was stated above I would check the filter and see if the bolt is tight. If everything is good I’m gonna say your oil cooler o ring has failed.
Usually blinking D4 means a problem with the automatic transmission, could be solenoids or a bad speed sensor, there should be a blue looking connector under the dash somewhere, not sure if it’s under the drivers side or passenger side on that model, but you stick a paperclip, turn the key to the 2nd position and get the codes, here this should help.
Hey thanks Eric, It seemed air was still trapped in my system and I needed to bleed the air 2 times! I bled it once then took it for a drive, then the next day my coolant level dropped, added more and re bled the air and so far so good (:
Hey thanks Eric, It seemed air was still trapped in my system and I needed to bleed the air 2 times! I bled it once then took it for a drive, then the next day my coolant level dropped, added more and re bled the air and so far so good (: