Forum Replies Created
-
Replies
-
And I seriously seriously doubt the green coolant damaged the radiator.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Some people have different opinions on it. The shop I work at we use green for everything. Every single vehicle we do any work on the coolant system we put green in it. Haven’t had a comeback in years. Not one that I know of. I could ask my boss if he has ever had a comeback but I’m almost sure he hasn’t and he’s been using green forever. It works and it’s cheap. Just my 2 cents
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
So is the engine starting to stall as you are slowing down and then when you come to a complete stop the engine speeds up real hard jerking you forward? I’m sorry you aren’t giving much information to what is happening at the time
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
If it’s already leaking you might as well just fix it instead of trying to keep a dying system working just a bit longer. I’d just replace it all then vacuum and charge
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Is there perhaps a snap ring where it splines in the transmission
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I know it’s a shitty draw up but here is what I was trying to explain
[IMG]http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160505/01d6d73a0629710d0dc673fe024d7103.jpg[/IMG]Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I personally am not sure if there is a tightening sequence for something like the timing cover. Most of the time if I’m tightening something of that size with that many bolts I just start in the center going furthest bolt to the left then furthest bolt to the right, then I go up to the next two bolts, then down to the next two bolts under the center line I started on, then up to the next two above the upper ones I tightened after the center point and i keep doing that until I have it evenly tightened. Also you don’t have to, but I do it to be safe, I will first tighten the bolts just snug like 5-10 foot pounds, and after I finish with the first sequence of tightening them lightly I go back and finish tightening them to spec, this ensures no side of what I’m tightening gets too tight right off the bat and binds, it may be overkill but I’ve never had an issue doing it this way so I figure it must be working.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
[IMG]http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160505/9305dbada65e86b9f08ca7b102770e6c.jpg[/IMG]
Here is what the vacuum line going to your brake booster will look like, if your brake booster is leaking then the engine will be running pretty lean because it is sucking extra air in and it can’t compensate extra fuel for the extra air because the leak is past the map sensor, or maf whichever your vehicle has. So you definitely want to get that fixed asap because running lean will hurt an engine due to higher cylinder temps.Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sounds like you have a blown out seal in your brake booster causing you to have a vacuum leak. A pretty major vacuum leak at that if your vent selector isn’t working. I’m almost positive this is what it is from how you described it but a way you can test it is to go under your hood and remove the vacuum line going into the brake booster and just plug it up with your thumb or something to restrict the flow of air, and see if that fixes your idle problem and have a buddy check your vent selector to see if it works while you have the line plugged. Sorry if i jumbled any words up, just woke up 3 minutes ago, haha.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I agree with college man 100 percent. You still have air in the system. Some cars are a huge pita to get all the air out of the system *cough* 2003 Lincoln LS. Some cars have a special bleeding procedure and some cars just require a lot of running revving and restarting to get all the air out.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Well it’s definitely a vacuum issue. I know on my car there is a separate valve on the vacuum source to the ac. So if there is a leak in the line after the valve to the ac it won’t affect the system until the system controls the valve.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk