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Ha ha you did say that sorry. Ok so what I would do is a voltage drop test on both the power and the ground circuits of the fuel pump. If both those test good then your problem is in the pump or at the connector itself. Maybe spread pins in the connector. Did you replace the whole fuel pump module or just the pump itself. May be a wiring issue inside the tank if you just did the pump.
Need to check the control wire and its connections to the fuel injector in question. Possible that the injector is shorted and burned out the driver in the PCM that controls the fuel injector.
The clearance is very small, were talking thousands of an inch. If you bent the shutter wheel or tone ring that could very well be your problem.
Tight valve lash can cause misfires. Might want to check valve lash. Another cause could be the engine is running way lean.
I would say yes it could be a slight difference in the aftermarket part. I see that all the time. Honestly I don’t think that is the case here but hey I have been wrong before.
The fuel pump is powered up by what is know as the PGMFI relay(programed Fuel Injection). The fuel pump relay is soldered to a board on the PGMFI relay. It is a common issue to have solder joint crack and not make contact. you can usually just reflow them and fix the relay. I would start there. I attached a pic of how to find the relay.
The CKP sensor is actually measuring little windows attached to the crankshaft which produce a signature square wave that the computer uses. the air gap is adjustable on some Chrysler vehicles. You might also want to check foe a cracked flywheel or some other condition that is causing the sensor to be damaged.
If the vehicle is a California emissions vehicle then the programming algorithm in the computer is more stringent than federal emissions vehicle. So to answer your question if the vehicle is set up to meet CARB standards and you put a CAT on it that does not meet those standards then yes it can cause the light to come back on. However it may still meet standards on a tailpipe sniff test but I can tell you that you get what you pay for when buying CATS. I have seen cheap ones be bad or insufficient right out of the box.
They make a special tool for that or like college man said use a brass punch and a hammer to lock it in. Its a tight Fit.
Your fuel pressure is to low. System calls for 60-66 PSI. Fuel pressure is very important on this system. It must be at least 60 PSI. This system uses poppet type valves inside the intake manifold that rely on this pressure to be opened. The spider injector assembly as some call it is known to leak fuel inside the manifold. There is an updated “spider Injector” kit that eliminates the poppet valves and converts them into regular injectors. Fuel pressure is still low though probably due to aging fuel pump.
If you only have a cheap fuel pressure kit that doesn’t have all the adapters in it then you have no choice but to find a way to connect to the shrader valve. Is the vehicle a no start and you want to test fuel pressure? If so spray some carb cleaner into the intake and see if it hits. might be easier to narrow down your problem.
Check your heater core hoses both inlet and outlet. Are they hot? Truck may have a valve in the heater core line that shuts the coolant flow off that is stuck closed. I have also seen water pumps unable to pump coolant into the heater core but pump enough to not let the truck overheat. Take the inlet hose going to the heater core and see if it is pumping coolant out when you run the engine. Lastly you said the the vent door works but you need to see if the blend door and its motor works.