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Its basically the same pump used on all those models. Is the power steering whining like it has air in it. If so you could try to replace that oring. Get it from Honda for a couple bucks. I will tell you that I have had to replace pumps before on Hondas because we never could get the pump to stop whining no matter what I did. Another option is to pull a vacuum on the system to pull the air out however most DIY don’t have the tools necessary to do this.
I have seen these engines pull the stud out of the head that holds the rocker arm on. It will cause a no compression situation in that cylinder. Check for compression on cylinder # 6 and confirm that the injector is being turned on and off.
The shrader valve should be tight in the tester .It is designed to let flow one way but not the other. If the valve wasn’t there then you would see the pressure pulse up and down as you cranked the engine over. With the valve installed it holds the pressure on the gauge. As for the specifications on compression, I can look that up for you if you tell me what the year make model is. Generally 150PSI or better is good.
Yes it is in the intake manifold and has little poppet valves on the end that only open at a certain pressure. They have a redesign of the system to eliminate the poppet valves on the end and turns them into regular injectors. However there might not be anything wrong with that part of the system. Again my bet is your fuel pressure is low during a cranking situation and is the reason it wont start. You need to hook a mechanical gauge to the fuel shrader valve and measure actual fuel pressure while attempting to start the vehicle.
Hope yall stay safe down there. My first guess based on the symptoms you describe would be a camshaft or crankshaft issue or a bad coil. Unfortunately without you having much resources in the way of testing equipment it might be hard to properly diagnose the issue. I wouldn’t think that one injector could keep the whole engine from starting seeing how it is just an open circuit. I wouldn’t worry about that right now. I would concentrate on the stalling issue first. So I go back to it probably is a crank or cam sensor issue or the coil itself when it heats up.
The injector code is a circuit code meaning electrical portion. Sea foam or any kind of cleaner will not fix this. You have an open in the circuit. a wire, the computer or the injector itself. As for the no start or dies. the coil needs a 12v feed and a trigger signal. When it wont start you need to check and see if you have 12V supply to the coil and see if you have a pulsed signal on the control wire. If not you could have an input problem to the computer like a bad cam or crank signal. Do you have any other codes to help point you in a direction.
This Engine has the GM CPI fuel system and it needs 60-66 PSI of fuel pressure to start. Sometimes one of the symptoms of this system is exactly what you are describing. I would get a fuel pressure tester and see what the actual fuel pressure is when it wont start.
I would just confirm that you have a good power and ground to the fuel pump while the pump is running. If you do then you have a bad pump. I put a Delphi pump in a truck once and it didn’t even pull off the rack because it was bad right out of the box. It can happen. Made me question myself.
Agree check your actual fuel pressure. The TPS can definitely cause a tip in hesitation and even stalling. Best way to check it is with a scope but its so cheap you could just throw another one on and recheck. I would check your actual fuel pressure to confirm its in specification first.
I hope you didn’t put an airtex fuel pump in it those are garbage. I would put a factory pump in it.
It very well could have air in the system if the reservoir was low. The first and simplest thing to do would be to bleed the Clutch system and see if you get a better pedal feel
If I were you I would chase down and fix the two codes you have first and foremost and then go from there. Fix what you know is wrong first before trying to chase down ghost.
You need to start with the basics. Do you have a good strong spakr. Do you have the proper fuel pressure. Do you have good compression across all cylinders.
Most modern vehicles do not use shims to align the starter. Thats old technology. The shield is used to keep heat away from the starter. The torque spec for the starter bolts is 15- 22 ft Ibs which is not a lot as in the bolts were most likely tightened sufficiently. The grinding could be due to worn flywheel ring gear teeth or the starter hanging up and staying engaged after start up. Possibly just a bad starter.