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Do you know the history of the vehicle? Maybe the vehicle was parked because of this problem and might indicate a more serious problem. Something to think about. I would start with the basics. Check for codes, Confirm good fuel pressure, Look at Ignition system what shape are the plugs, wires, cap and rotor in.
There is a number of things that can cause a rattle in the front end. Stabilizer end links are a very common problem but are not the only thing that can cause a rattle.
Most HID systems have a ballast and a control module. I have seen both go bad. If its not the bulb obviously it will be one of the other components but you need to be carefull because it steps the voltage way up and it can hurt you if you dont know what you are doing.
If its a big enough vacuum leak then yes putting it into gear could stall the engine. Does the engine run bad in park?
I pushed brake pistons back in for years without opening the bleeder screws. Anyway not saying you should do that however I have never damaged a master cylinder to my knowledge by doing this. not saying it cant happen but it would be a rare thing. Did you open the system up for anything or all you did was a pad swap.
Most times its a recall because of government mandate or it posses a safety concern to the occupants. Their is far more TSB’s for issue’s manufacturers have with vehicles than there is outright recalls. Cant explain what stomping on the brakes has to do with it. You might just need to have it checked by a professional mechanic.
Mazda has actually put out a Technical Service Bulletin(TSB) about this issue. It is TSB 05-004/07 unfortunately it deals with a know problem with worn torque converters. You could probably google it and read it yourself.
I would start with some basics.
Check your fuel pressure. High fuel pressure will make a vehicle run rich.
Check the fuel pressure regulator and make sure the vacuum line going to it isnt sucking fuel in from a ruptured regulator diaphram.
Check engine vacuum beleive this system uses MAP for fuel control and low manifold vacuum will result in a rich condition.( Valve adjustment, timing belt jumped, low compression)
Check MAP sensor itself. Should read 3.0 volts at sea level with key on engine off.
I would also verify compressionSometimes they get junk or rust buildup inside between the pulley and the crank snout and make it difficult to remove by hand. If you can find a way to put a puller on it I think you will find it wont take much effort to get it off.
The computer is telling him he has a cylinder 2 misfire. there could be more but this is a 4 cylinder engine. If one cylinder is down then the engine will not run very well at all. I wouldn’t go chasing any wild geese. I would focus on that cylinder misfire and odds are when you fix that you will fix the other symptoms as well. Do the basics. you need spark, fuel, air and compression for that cylinder to work correctly. He needs to find out which one he is missing and trace that down.
You need to get a power distribution diagram and find what main wire feeds those fuses and trace the voltage drop on that circuit.
I didn’t see where you said what specific codes you have. I would start by checking for codes. When you say engine knock do you mean the engine is noisy or do you mean it has spark knock or detonation?
You most likely have an open in the circuit for the O2 heater. Needs a power and a ground to work. You need to find a good wiring diagram for your vehicle and test and see if the heater circuit is being provided a power and a ground to operate the heater.