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You need to check with the engine running. Also you need to connect to the circuit and then start the engine and check because the ECM will turn it off after a couple of seconds if it sees a problem to protect itself. Looking at the Wiring diagram the Blake/yellow wire is power and the black/white wire is computer controlled ground on the engine harness side. if you have a test light, connect it between these two wires and then start the car and see if it lights up if it does then the circuit is good and you have a bad O2 sensor.
Whats the 8th digit of your VIN. In trying to look this up but need to know what engine it has. I know 1.6 but 8th digit in the VIN will tell me exactly which one i need
Take the serpentine belt/belts off and see if the whining goes away. If it does one of the engine accessories has a bad bearing if not then you would need to look further into where exactly the noise is coming from. You can get a cheap engine stethoscope to help you pin point the exact area and go from there.
your question i vague. The vehicle will not move unless you are in 3rd or 4th gear? Can you press the clutch in and move the gear shift lever into any other gear position? Maybe try and clarify what exactly your problem is.
I don’t think this would work. The flare has a corresponding angled seat inside the master cylinder that makes the seal. If you just put a bolt in it, it would not seal against the seat. I think this would make your test inconclusive either way.
Also don’t know if you watch any scanner danner videos on you tube but I believe he has a case study on this very thing on his channel. He has lots of videos like eric. you would need to do a search to find it. It may help you.
The cam gear should have a shroud on it with little windows in it. My question was are the windows in the new and the old cam gear exactly the same. I know you said it was the same but I would look closely to make sure. Those windows are what make the cam sensor produce a certain signal that the PCM is looking for. It is possible for the new cam gear to bolt on to the engine but have different sequence of windows on the gear. I’m assuming you didn’t have the cam sensor code before.
I assume the alternator is not charging. you should have battery voltage on the heavy gauge power wire and the four pin connector you should have power on the white/green and black/yellow wires with the key on. the white/blue wire is used to illuminate the charging light in the dash and the white/red wire is some sort of signal from the PCM to control the alternator field. I would start with checking all of these and you could also just check the fuses Fuse 15 ACG 7.5A and fuse 20 ECU 20A in the under hood fuse box..
I have attached a picture of what the timing marks should look like when everything is lined up. Did you replace the camshaft sprocket? I have seen cases where depending on model year the tone wheel on the cam sprocket will be different and it will cause problems if the signal to the computer is not what it wants to see.
Not in all cases but most cases especially with aftermarket parts, the old saying you get what you pay for I think applies.
I highly doubt you have a ECM problem. Its possible but very unlikely. You need to go find someone who can do a full system scan with a professional scan tool that is able to read codes in all modules on the vehicle. The OBD code readers are not capable of reading all modules on the vehicle.I have read your posts and don’t take it personal but all these things you are doing are not going to fix anything. you need a logical diagnostic approach to solve the problem.
These engines are known for head gasket problems. I would confirm mechanical integrity of the engine first. Also agree you need to find a scanner that will read codes from the ECU. However I would not be throwing a ECU at this car with unknown history and unknown mechanical engine condition.
Use a voltmeter and test your you’re battery to be sure it has 12V. If so now put the leads on the cable ends themselves and see if you get the same reading. To test to see if your ground is open. Leave the ground lead connected to the negative post of the battery and use the positive lead and touch something metal on the frame or the engine. If it shows 12V then the ground wire is open or disconnected. Also did you do a good visual inspection of the battery cables to make sure they are connected to their respective places.
Have you had the vehicle scanned to see what code the system is giving you? I would start there. You can check the bag for leaks by using soap and water and spraying the bags down and check for air bubbles at source of leak. Sometimes they can be very slow and hard to find. However I would start with codes. It may not have anything to do with a leaking air bag.