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The wiring diagram is clear and readable on my end but when i post it here it looses its clarity. Tried reapplying but doesn’t look like it helped.
I would check for codes first to see if you have any pending codes that have not set the light on yet. If no codes I would look at fuel trim data when the problem occurs and see what your fuel trims are. You could also check fuel pressure while problem exist. That would be my starting point
You need the master switch to work for the other slave switches to work. Power should be feed to all the switches and ground is provided through the master switch. I have attached a wiring diagram for you to use that may help you out but I would be looking at the master switch.
There is no trick, some fasteners can be difficult to remove especially if you live somewhere with salted roads. Have you tried a 1/2 in impact?
Ok looking up the clutch for both an S40 and an S40C manual transmission it says it is a 20 tooth spline. Most aftermarket suppliers(autozone ect) should have a clutch kit that comes with the clutch, flywheel, throw out bearing, and pilot shaft bearing. I have used Power torque brand before and had decent luck with them. However I am a proponent of installing factory parts when possible. The fit finish and quality is usually better in all cases because those parts a specifically designed to work with that vehicle. One other note if you use factory parts you usually have to buy everything separate as they don’t usually have kits. Also the factory clutch may not come with a a clutch alignment tool. Most aftermarket ones will.
I would say you just need to remove and replace the valve. If the brakes are spongy after I would perform a traditional 4 wheel brake bleed procedure. If you get air in anywhere it will be at the line.
Seeing as how you didn’t seem to have this problem until after you did the brake job I would double check all your brake hardware to make sure the nothing is touching the rotor making that noise. Also if you bent the backing plate for some reason that can make noise if its contacting the rotor. The other suggestion would be to lube the brake hardware with a light coat of brake grease.
Make sure your crank gear is pushed all the way forward and try pushing on the belt at the cam gear as you rotate the engine. If that doesn’t work i would say take the tensioner off and reset everything making sure the belt is centered and the crank gear is pushed all the way back. It shouldn’t walk off like that just by turning the engine over by hand
update us on the fix when you get it back.
As far as jumping the pins, I have a connector kit I use to do this on older vehicles where this method applies. I just find the pin that fits the pins on the vehicle and loop it all together and jump it. However a caution you should be 100% what pins you are jumping. Short answer is yesKinda, just turning the cam independent of the crank may make the valves contact the piston but its not moving in the same manner and force as it would if the engine was running. You can just move the cam back to its original position moving it back in the direction it came. So if it rotate right 15 degrees move it back left to line back up or vise versa. don’t roll it all the way around.
Yeah I just reread it. I would still start with taking off the belt and running it to see if the noise goes away and go from there.
Sorry it doesn’t when I look in my service information system it doesn’t have that option it just has like 6 different 1.6L options and I need the 8th digit of the VIN to know which one to pick. Is money an issue? If not I would recommend getting factory clutch, flywheel, and thrown out bearing.