Forum Replies Created
-
Replies
-
Hello.
You should check you alternator and the Load detector unit on your car.
The sympthomps you describe are indicating you that the charging aystem has some problems
Start here: turn on the engine and meassure thr voltage of the battery it shoukd be above 13.9 v.
If not alternator problem.If its above the 13.9 v turn some load on: lihgt, radio, if the voltage drops down load detector unit and maybe idle IAC valve.
Hope this helps
Hello.
You should check you alternator and the Load detector unit on your car.
The sympthomps you describe are indicating you that the charging aystem has some problems
Start here: turn on the engine and meassure thr voltage of the battery it shoukd be above 13.9 v.
If not alternator problem.If its above the 13.9 v turn some load on: lihgt, radio, if the voltage drops down load detector unit and maybe idle IAC valve.
Hope this helps
Hello Guys.
In the end, yesterday I tried to do a Valve adjustment on my 2003 CRV. I follow the Process detailed on the service Manual. After I finished, the engine was so smooth that I didn’t even notice if it was on. The vibrations drop down to almost 0. The fluctuation on the idle disappeared.
The only thing that bothers me is that after the valve adjustment my engine sounds like a diesel engine. I use the correct gauge: 0.23 mm (0.009 inch) for intake valves and 0.30 mm (0.012 inch) for exhaust valves.
The engine was stone cold, it was off since the night before. The only thing that kept my attention was that the exhaust valves where with more free play than the intake, but I assumed it was normal because of the difference in the gap space.
The engine is so smooth that I can barely recognize my CRV. The only thing that bothers me is the Valve sound.
Do you have any idea what I might be missing.
Hello Guys.
In the end, yesterday I tried to do a Valve adjustment on my 2003 CRV. I follow the Process detailed on the service Manual. After I finished, the engine was so smooth that I didn’t even notice if it was on. The vibrations drop down to almost 0. The fluctuation on the idle disappeared.
The only thing that bothers me is that after the valve adjustment my engine sounds like a diesel engine. I use the correct gauge: 0.23 mm (0.009 inch) for intake valves and 0.30 mm (0.012 inch) for exhaust valves.
The engine was stone cold, it was off since the night before. The only thing that kept my attention was that the exhaust valves where with more free play than the intake, but I assumed it was normal because of the difference in the gap space.
The engine is so smooth that I can barely recognize my CRV. The only thing that bothers me is the Valve sound.
Do you have any idea what I might be missing.
Thank you Eric, the thing is that when I turn Off the engine, the coolant comes out even with more pressure. Then I have to refill.
I just Refill and stop the process in order to identify what am I doing wrong, also the good quality coolant is very expensive here. You have to pay almost a RD $ 1000.00 for a good quality Gallon, which is around USD $ 25
Do you think the Thermostat might be damaged?
Thank you Eric, the thing is that when I turn Off the engine, the coolant comes out even with more pressure. Then I have to refill.
I just Refill and stop the process in order to identify what am I doing wrong, also the good quality coolant is very expensive here. You have to pay almost a RD $ 1000.00 for a good quality Gallon, which is around USD $ 25
Do you think the Thermostat might be damaged?
Thank you for the answers guys.
In order to respond to every one, the process I’m doing is the Following:
1. With engine cold or slightly warm (get home and 3 hours later), get the radiator cap of.
2. Plug the Funnel
3. Fill a little of coolant
4. Start the engine
5. Increase the idle a little till 2000 RPM
6. At that point I start to see bubbles, just a few but no fans ON
7. From there, after a few minutes the level on the funnel starts to rise to a point where everything gets out of control and spills (VERY HOT actually)
8. I turn the engine off and the coolant keeps coming out of the radiator.
9. After that I got almost no coolant on the system and have to refill all of it.
I have tried 2 times and play again Eric’s Video. By now I want to know what am I missing or doing wrong.Thank you for the answers guys.
In order to respond to every one, the process I’m doing is the Following:
1. With engine cold or slightly warm (get home and 3 hours later), get the radiator cap of.
2. Plug the Funnel
3. Fill a little of coolant
4. Start the engine
5. Increase the idle a little till 2000 RPM
6. At that point I start to see bubbles, just a few but no fans ON
7. From there, after a few minutes the level on the funnel starts to rise to a point where everything gets out of control and spills (VERY HOT actually)
8. I turn the engine off and the coolant keeps coming out of the radiator.
9. After that I got almost no coolant on the system and have to refill all of it.
I have tried 2 times and play again Eric’s Video. By now I want to know what am I missing or doing wrong.Remember :stick: , as Eric said, the bleeder valve is not a requirement of the procedure. Your vehicle may no have it, but just continue with the other steps. Forget about the valve.
Be safe. banana:
Remember :stick: , as Eric said, the bleeder valve is not a requirement of the procedure. Your vehicle may no have it, but just continue with the other steps. Forget about the valve.
Be safe. banana:
As far as is remember the PS Pump didn’t last more than 10 seconds running at low level. I started the engine and let it idle until the fluid stopped to drain out fluently. I mean: when I heard the PS PUMP pushing air out of the system I Stopped the engine.
On the other hand: is there a way that I can verify y the rack has air inside? or just to verify if the PS pump is really damaged?
PS: the steering wheel is normally smooth, is not lighter or harder.
As far as is remember the PS Pump didn’t last more than 10 seconds running at low level. I started the engine and let it idle until the fluid stopped to drain out fluently. I mean: when I heard the PS PUMP pushing air out of the system I Stopped the engine.
On the other hand: is there a way that I can verify y the rack has air inside? or just to verify if the PS pump is really damaged?
PS: the steering wheel is normally smooth, is not lighter or harder.
could it make any difference the replacement house diameter or something?
there is any possibility that there’s air inside the steering rack?
how can i take it out?
could it make any difference the replacement house diameter or something?
there is any possibility that there’s air inside the steering rack?
how can i take it out?
Hello once again from D.R.
So after i received the house from my courier I was looking forward to get dirty.
I had to remove the hole engine air filter box so i could reach the hose clamps and fitting i asked you in the picture i posted.
The job was a lot easier after that, it was jun manner of flushing the PS fluid and replace the PS pressure house.
I used OEM honda PS fluid.
It was all going great just after i replace the fluid. As the Service manual says: to drain the fluid disconnect the return line, turn the engine on and let the fluid out. After finishing the job, reconnect return hose and refill reservoir, turn the engine on and keep refilling as far as it need PS fluid. Turn the wheels side to side and refill.
I followed the procedure on the service manual on how to flush out the old fluid, change the house and refill the fluid. after that just turn the steering wheel side to side so you can force the air out.
I did all that and now i can hear my pump with the sound like if there’s air in the system, but i got no foam or bubbles on the reservoir. I use OEM honda PS fluid. I re-check all hoses, fittings and noting loose.
Any advice guys?