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Seems to me that the problem is right there at the badge where is says TOYOTA. European cars of the 1980s had better build quality that todays japanese cars. Really dispespectfull to their customers….
Hey Eric , great video. I could actually feel the frustration you had, This reminded me one ETCG1 video “be like Yoda” . You were quite pacient during the repair. Keep up the good work and remember, smashing the differantial with a sledge hammer os a pathway to the dark side.
When doing an engine swap i think its wise to replace at least the timing belt (maybe the tensioner, water pump,etc..) the clutch (disck, bearing and maybe the pressure plate), the clutch slave cylinder, and the crankshaft oil seal. I know that these thinks cost money but i think its money well spent. These parts are relatively cheap and the labor for replacing them is the main cost of such repairs.
I liked the intro, keep up the good work
Belt vs chain? I think it depends. Replacing a timing belt or chain in a transversly mounted engine is more difficult for me. On the other hand i find that replacing the timing belt in a longitudinal engine is quite easier. So my personal choise would be a car to have a timing belt and a longitudinal engine. Todays belts are made with better materials and that makes them strogrer than belts made 20 years ago, for example the 1.0L ford ecoboost engine is desined with a timing belt immersed in oil that does not need to be replaced, and that is an result of better materials. Also i hate when a tb change requires some kind of special tools (engine specific), i think they are unnececary and the only real purpose for them is to keep the customer tied to the dealership or big workshops.
Hey Eric, why you didnt replaced the other camshaft sprocket? It should be as worn as the other one.
Hey Eric, how about a generic video for timing belt, tensioner, ect. replacement, where you point out the common errors in these types of repair? I know you have detailed videos of timing belt replacement for specific types of engines (and i am pretty sure they are great) but i think a video with a gereral discussion about what to pay attention to would be really helpful to us DIY’s.
[quote=”MetaphysicalEngineer” post=109886]Someone please correct me if I’m wrong, but the way I learned was that the heat of combustion breaks down the metal-containing molecules of octane improvers and oil additives and vaporizes the metal. The vaporized metal then condenses on the relatively cooler exhaust parts, including the surfaces of the catalytic converter.
While the exhaust pipe doesn’t care about a few atoms thick layer of extra metal, the catalytic converter relies on direct contact with the exhaust gases. Once it gets coated with condensed metal vapors, the catalyst is sealed off from the exhaust gas and can’t function anymore. Soot burns off at typical catalytic converter operating temperatures but since most metals have a pretty high boiling point, the exhaust system can’t get hot enough to burn them off. If it did, the exhaust system and the ceramic in the converter would probably have issues as well.
Tap water doesn’t contain that much metal (it would be deadly if it did), and for the most part minerals tend to stay dissolved. Over hundreds of thousands of gallons, some of the minerals can solidify and cause problems with old pipes and fittings, but that is very unlikely with the amount used for rinsing in the video.[/quote]
1. the heat of combustion does breaks down the metal-containing molecules of octane improvers and oil additives but does not vaporise the metal (vapor means it is at gaseous state) the metal becomes a very very fine powder,like soot
2. The metal forms a bond with the active metals (in a non reversible way, hense the term poisoning) of the cat due to the high temp of the cat.
3. The substances that the cat breaks down form a bond with the active metal of the cat, then the substance breaks down ( for example 2NO -> N2 + O2) and finally the bond breaks and the newly formed molecules are released.
4.in a poisoned cat the exhaust gasses do come in contact with the active metals but they cannot form a bond with them because there is already a bond between the active metal with the heavy metal that caused the poisoning.[quote=”MetaphysicalEngineer” post=109886]Someone please correct me if I’m wrong, but the way I learned was that the heat of combustion breaks down the metal-containing molecules of octane improvers and oil additives and vaporizes the metal. The vaporized metal then condenses on the relatively cooler exhaust parts, including the surfaces of the catalytic converter.
While the exhaust pipe doesn’t care about a few atoms thick layer of extra metal, the catalytic converter relies on direct contact with the exhaust gases. Once it gets coated with condensed metal vapors, the catalyst is sealed off from the exhaust gas and can’t function anymore. Soot burns off at typical catalytic converter operating temperatures but since most metals have a pretty high boiling point, the exhaust system can’t get hot enough to burn them off. If it did, the exhaust system and the ceramic in the converter would probably have issues as well.
Tap water doesn’t contain that much metal (it would be deadly if it did), and for the most part minerals tend to stay dissolved. Over hundreds of thousands of gallons, some of the minerals can solidify and cause problems with old pipes and fittings, but that is very unlikely with the amount used for rinsing in the video.[/quote]
1. the heat of combustion does breaks down the metal-containing molecules of octane improvers and oil additives but does not vaporise the metal (vapor means it is at gaseous state) the metal becomes a very very fine powder,like soot
2. The metal forms a bond with the active metals (in a non reversible way, hense the term poisoning) of the cat due to the high temp of the cat.
3. The substances that the cat breaks down form a bond with the active metal of the cat, then the substance breaks down ( for example 2NO -> N2 + O2) and finally the bond breaks and the newly formed molecules are released.
4.in a poisoned cat the exhaust gasses do come in contact with the active metals but they cannot form a bond with them because there is already a bond between the active metal with the heavy metal that caused the poisoning.Heavy metals do poison the cat. Tap water does not contain such metals or if it does the concentration is very low. Moerover it is unlikely that metals contained in tap water to poison the cat because at room temp the active metals of the cat are non-reactive (thats why we call these metals like platinum noble, because they react with almost nothing at “normal temterature”. Also the temperature related reactivity is the reason that a cold engine(and the cat respectively) emmits NOx and HC like any non catalytic car. However i would use deionized water for a final rinse just to be on the safe side.
Eric, if you get another chance for a similar case i would suggest to use a mixture of equal volumes of concentrated sodium hydroxide and isopropanol (rubbing alcohol) or just plain gasoline(whitch is very cheap, an exellent solvent and cleans very well) but in either case the cat should be submerged in the cleaning solution and left overnight to soak (when you want to clean something without the use of mechanical force time really counts). Finally i think it is safe to say that this particular cat is too far gone.Heavy metals do poison the cat. Tap water does not contain such metals or if it does the concentration is very low. Moerover it is unlikely that metals contained in tap water to poison the cat because at room temp the active metals of the cat are non-reactive (thats why we call these metals like platinum noble, because they react with almost nothing at “normal temterature”. Also the temperature related reactivity is the reason that a cold engine(and the cat respectively) emmits NOx and HC like any non catalytic car. However i would use deionized water for a final rinse just to be on the safe side.
Eric, if you get another chance for a similar case i would suggest to use a mixture of equal volumes of concentrated sodium hydroxide and isopropanol (rubbing alcohol) or just plain gasoline(whitch is very cheap, an exellent solvent and cleans very well) but in either case the cat should be submerged in the cleaning solution and left overnight to soak (when you want to clean something without the use of mechanical force time really counts). Finally i think it is safe to say that this particular cat is too far gone.Hi Eric, as a chemist, if i would try to clean a catalytic converter with soap and water i would use Alconox as soap and hot deionized (or distilled) water and soak it overnight. Also before the installation i would wash off the soap with deionized water and dry the substrate with brake cleaner (or acetone) and compressed air. Most of the commercial cleaning products leave some residues onto surfaces (i learned this the hard way) but Alxonox is a very powerful and residue free detergent. Finally the ideal situation for cleaning would be that the water – soap bath to be carried under ultrasounds (ultrasonic cleaning) but since most of the people dont have this kind of equipment i am mentioning this for educational purposes. By what i saw in that video when you reinstalled the converter it had still some soapy water inside and that way when this mixture would dry it would have left plenty of residues on the active surface of the catalitic converter. I would also like to mention that Palladium and Platinum are highly resistant to corrosive chemicals (as a matter of fact there is no household product that could dissolve or oxidise Platinum) and any other cleaning method would certainly not harm the catalyst substrate.
Sorry for the long post, keep up the good work and stay dirty
Hi Eric, as a chemist, if i would try to clean a catalytic converter with soap and water i would use Alconox as soap and hot deionized (or distilled) water and soak it overnight. Also before the installation i would wash off the soap with deionized water and dry the substrate with brake cleaner (or acetone) and compressed air. Most of the commercial cleaning products leave some residues onto surfaces (i learned this the hard way) but Alxonox is a very powerful and residue free detergent. Finally the ideal situation for cleaning would be that the water – soap bath to be carried under ultrasounds (ultrasonic cleaning) but since most of the people dont have this kind of equipment i am mentioning this for educational purposes. By what i saw in that video when you reinstalled the converter it had still some soapy water inside and that way when this mixture would dry it would have left plenty of residues on the active surface of the catalitic converter. I would also like to mention that Palladium and Platinum are highly resistant to corrosive chemicals (as a matter of fact there is no household product that could dissolve or oxidise Platinum) and any other cleaning method would certainly not harm the catalyst substrate.
Sorry for the long post, keep up the good work and stay dirty
I dont think that the engine is worn, it has only 50k miles on and i do oil and filter changes at 10k miles instead of 20k miles-or 1 year that the service manual says. Also before i go hard on the engine(not very often) i make sure that is compeletely warmed up. The engine burns no oil at all between oil changes (sometimes maybe 3oz at 10k miles, sometimes not at all). I use fully synthetic oil and the recommended viscosity, even the same brand that the manufactures recomends.Is it possible that an engine with this milage and treatment to be worn? Any other causes of oil in the intake manifold?
I dont think that the engine is worn, it has only 50k miles on and i do oil and filter changes at 10k miles instead of 20k miles-or 1 year that the service manual says. Also before i go hard on the engine(not very often) i make sure that is compeletely warmed up. The engine burns no oil at all between oil changes (sometimes maybe 3oz at 10k miles, sometimes not at all). I use fully synthetic oil and the recommended viscosity, even the same brand that the manufactures recomends.Is it possible that an engine with this milage and treatment to be worn? Any other causes of oil in the intake manifold?
Thank you Eric. So today i removed the intake manifold and swapped injectors #3 & #4 and put the intake manifold back together( when i tried to put it back all hell broke loose but later on that) and immediately the scanner showed the code P0204 and P0304( instead of P0203 & P0303) and while the engine was developing a misfire (its was not misfiring all the time) i performed a power balance test which was in complience with the OBD codes and cylinder #4 has the problem now. So i ordered a new injector for 95$ (or 70€) and i am waiting for it to arrive. So about the all hell broke loose thing. When i picked up the intake manifolf from the floor to put it back together it started to drip oil, a lot of it (about 3oz) and when i removed the throttle body a saw that all the interior was covered with oil. Also a rubber gasket between the valve cover and intake manifold was leaking oil and the top of the valve cover was covered in oil-dirt (i applied some gasket sealer when i installed it later). Then because the manifolds interior was covered with oil i thought that it was a good idea :silly: to remove the MAP sensor to clean it. I tried to pull the sensor out and i was very (and i mean VERY) carefull and it BROKE :angry: . The plastic was completely flimsy. Anyway i used some superglue and epoxy as a temporary solution until i get a perlacement part. I cleaned the manifold with brake cleaner and put it back together.
Any ideas why my manifold had so much oil inside?