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i actually did just this afternoon remove the injectors and physically inspect them all, clear all fuel out of the rail and do a general inspection – all perfect and absolutely clean, no buildup what so ever so i put it all back together
i also cleaned the MAF sensor the other day and a week earlier with no change
compression is within spec no major difference between cylinders
i get the feeling the issue is being solved by higher fuel pressure because something is telling it to run with less/limited fuel or something similar – what could cause this?
other things i have tried (when cold because its most apparent then):
disconnect MAF sensor – runs worse, when opening throttle same near stall
disconnect o2 sensor – runs worse, when opening throttle same near stall
disconnect TPS – car runs better for ~3 seconds (idle raises then back to normal) (2 TPS connectors?)i actually did just this afternoon remove the injectors and physically inspect them all, clear all fuel out of the rail and do a general inspection – all perfect and absolutely clean, no buildup what so ever so i put it all back together
i also cleaned the MAF sensor the other day and a week earlier with no change
compression is within spec no major difference between cylinders
i get the feeling the issue is being solved by higher fuel pressure because something is telling it to run with less/limited fuel or something similar – what could cause this?
other things i have tried (when cold because its most apparent then):
disconnect MAF sensor – runs worse, when opening throttle same near stall
disconnect o2 sensor – runs worse, when opening throttle same near stall
disconnect TPS – car runs better for ~3 seconds (idle raises then back to normal) (2 TPS connectors?)Good advice that, ill check it out some time this week
Meanwhile any other components i should focus on which could cause the engine to nearly die when opening the throttle when cold? – MAF? TPS?
Good advice that, ill check it out some time this week
Meanwhile any other components i should focus on which could cause the engine to nearly die when opening the throttle when cold? – MAF? TPS?
How can the fuel pressure be low after replacing all fuel related components (regulator, filter, pump), whats left in the equation? If i have to buy a gauge to test i will.
34/43 PSI is correct spec according to Nissan service manuals.
If i clamp the line it takes a little while before excess pressure builds up (past the regulator) in the lines and then everything starts to work normal.
What does adding extra fuel pressure (aka more fuel) into the mix translate to? Could it be the MAF sensor reading wrong air volume and under-fueling everything? (and by me adding extra pressure adds the extra fuel required?)
How can the fuel pressure be low after replacing all fuel related components (regulator, filter, pump), whats left in the equation? If i have to buy a gauge to test i will.
34/43 PSI is correct spec according to Nissan service manuals.
If i clamp the line it takes a little while before excess pressure builds up (past the regulator) in the lines and then everything starts to work normal.
What does adding extra fuel pressure (aka more fuel) into the mix translate to? Could it be the MAF sensor reading wrong air volume and under-fueling everything? (and by me adding extra pressure adds the extra fuel required?)
After replacing the rear struts and sway bar bushings there is zero noise and still get the same play (both were worn anyhow, was hoping once it was out i could see the whole lot a bit better, didn’t help at all)
I cant find the play but its there, i might lift the car up taking the weight slightly off the rear suspension and then lift it up from just behind the rear breaks of one side see if i can find it that way.
Heres the rear suspension design
http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/jchill/2010-03-03_152507_camrysus.gifAfter replacing the rear struts and sway bar bushings there is zero noise and still get the same play (both were worn anyhow, was hoping once it was out i could see the whole lot a bit better, didn’t help at all)
I cant find the play but its there, i might lift the car up taking the weight slightly off the rear suspension and then lift it up from just behind the rear breaks of one side see if i can find it that way.
Heres the rear suspension design
http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/jchill/2010-03-03_152507_camrysus.gifsorry about the squeak from my hand on the tire and the handbrake
also note at first no play until the back of the car starts to rock left and right more
and yes that’s me grabbing and pushing only the top of the tire
sorry about the squeak from my hand on the tire and the handbrake
also note at first no play until the back of the car starts to rock left and right more
and yes that’s me grabbing and pushing only the top of the tire
I replaced the rear struts finally (both soft, one was leaking, no strut cushions/bump stops left – also replaced).
Movement is still present, i have noticed when i was working on the car that the left side sway bar bushing is worn out and has some play in it so ill replace that soon as well – would this be a part of the issue?
This issue does not seem to be the bearing but it feels similar, when the rear wheels are lifted off the ground there is zero play/movement in the wheels and i cannot make it happen.
When the car is flat normal on the ground if i pull pretty hard on the wheels back and forward (out away from car to pushing towards car from the top) at first nothing but as the car starts to sway left and right (as the weight of the car starts to wobble the rear a bit) you can feel it.
Again when the rear is up, zero play either side, when its down again at first its tight (wheels/body in a higher position), as soon as those rear wheels/body return to there normal angle/position a bit lower theres play.
Ill try to make a video soon
I replaced the rear struts finally (both soft, one was leaking, no strut cushions/bump stops left – also replaced).
Movement is still present, i have noticed when i was working on the car that the left side sway bar bushing is worn out and has some play in it so ill replace that soon as well – would this be a part of the issue?
This issue does not seem to be the bearing but it feels similar, when the rear wheels are lifted off the ground there is zero play/movement in the wheels and i cannot make it happen.
When the car is flat normal on the ground if i pull pretty hard on the wheels back and forward (out away from car to pushing towards car from the top) at first nothing but as the car starts to sway left and right (as the weight of the car starts to wobble the rear a bit) you can feel it.
Again when the rear is up, zero play either side, when its down again at first its tight (wheels/body in a higher position), as soon as those rear wheels/body return to there normal angle/position a bit lower theres play.
Ill try to make a video soon
