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Head gaskets replaced because of an external coolant leak (this car has never consumed coolant) – the problem was there before and after.
15.x ohm on all injectors
I tried a different set of injectors – exactly the same
If i for a second start the car, wait a second then try again it *instantly* starts up?
Injector cleaner every 10000km, last time i used Redline SI-1. Time for replace/remove and clean?
Could this be a MAP sensor issue?
If i put higher octane fuel the starting problem gets worse if that helps.
Smoke test – negative, also checked for intake vacuum leaks.
This car has a MAP (not MAF) sensor so it shouldn’t really be effected by vacuum leaks / pirate air?
Compression test was done before a rebuild and was within spec (at least cold anyhow), i will check again this weekend if its cool enough (was 38ºC yesterday)
If i spray brake cleaner into the intake before i start the car it instantly starts up.
Hi sorry about the late reply i have barely used this car until recently, fuel pressure leak down tested fine however i inspected the fuel sender unit (plastic!) – it had a small crack in the sender side plug/barb so i replaced the whole assembly – same issue.
Since last posting the issue seems worse, i get hesitation (poor performance) on WOT, seems to run rough and has very little power especially up hills and with the AC on.
Updates – tried NEW battery, crank and cam sensors (from another working Subaru i have), new plugs and leads (other ones were original OEM leads and old plugs that looked fine), upgraded and cleaned up grounding everywhere, coolant temp sensor (from another working subaru) – nothing changes the problem.
This thing shows NO codes at all still, my scanner also tells me on WOT this thing is running lean, fuel trim says -10%?
Any ideas?
Key on instantly put fuel pressure to spec, fuel pressure stayed the same during crank (35 psi)
Battery crank load testing – today I used some equipment of mine to pull some numbers (~3000-5000 updates a second) and generate a chart (see attached), I did notice the voltage dived momently to 7v for the initial crank – could this be what i’m looking for?
This chart was generated with data used in the first crank video, for the second and third video the charts looked identical, same 7v dive etc but started much quicker with less cranking.
The initial voltage was 12.6v (overnight, ~30ºC)
First start (you can hear the fuel pump prime – i always wait for it):
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ralk-rHZ3xo(Turn car off)
Second start (moments later):
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pB6tPMt7-cA(Turn car off)
Third start (moments later)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_YywElSAn1YLong cold crank – first thing in the morning or after work if the car has been sitting around all day – turn key to start position, the car cranks and cranks for ~2-3 seconds or longer then finally it splutters and shudders to life then and after its started its fine, never stalls or shudders or anything, i can drive it as normal, if the car is warm (within ~30 minutes of sitting) it starts up fine (within a second).
Fuel pressure is to Subaru service manual specification (30-34 psi, 41-46 psi with no regulator vacuum) – i got ~35psi and ~45psi with engine running, starting pressure was full instantly when key is turned to on position and doesn’t go down on start-up, “throttle snapping” instantly raises fuel pressure to the full ~45psi instantly.
Battery was tested with a load tester at a shop and passed, and like i mentioned earlier I even jump started it with another running car which made no difference at all, again – does this eliminate battery/electrical or do i still have to do more testing (cranking voltage etc)?
Ill post videos of both hot and cold starts when I get a chance.
Timing marks checked and rechecked however i have not checked timing with a timing light – ill look into that soon
No OBD2 but i do have an adapter to use with “FreeSSM” , no codes and the TPS is smooth from 0% to 100% – ill check for codes when running when i get a chance also
Fuel pressure is fine I thought that at first too
Vacuum leaks – this car has a MAP sensor not a MAF, and new gaskets for throttle body/intake manifold etc
Head gaskets – this engine got a complete gasket/seal kit a few years back (was doing the same thing before the rebuild) – heads checked, new genuine head gaskets, water pump, complete timing kit, new complete gasket/seal kit for everything
The battery was checked with a battery tester recently and I tried the jump starting with another running car – exactly the same – do i still require cranking voltage to be checked?
I forgot to mention – if its running for more than ~2 minutes it will start up perfectly
Australia – left side of the road / right hand drive – it pulls to the right (higher side/inside of the road)
Im starting to think this is an intermittent issue? Sometimes as im crawling along in traffic at low speeds it turns the wheel a whole 45º when rolling (walking pace speeds), other times it seems fine or a lot less? Could strut hats/bearings bind up and cause this issue?
Ill inspect the brakes for drag, i haven’t checked the parking brake ill look at that too
Tyre pressure – i have checked them all (rear supposed to be 2 psi less then front from memory – i tried that, and all at the same pressure, and all at 36 psi), i might try running the front left with a little less pressure, and check them cold next time.
Brakes i have replaced the pads (came with some cheap nasty ones, worst i have ever had) and serviced the sliders at the same time, i have also checked for any “hot” sides while driving and it all seems ok – any other ways to check for sticky brakes?
Could it be the steering rack has some sort of internal pressure leak allowing it to turn to one side slightly? The car has very light steering, i did check/tighten the preload and at the same time replace all fluid, no improvement.
I replaced the filter and added Lucas stop slip to the transmission today and did some more testing
While running the engine and getting the transmission fluid to the right level i also let the engine warm up to normal operating temperature first before going for a drive, still did the same old rough light acceleration which makes me think its transmission related rather then engine related since the engine was warm this time
Ill post back in a week or so with some results
Oh and keep up the good work Eric love your videos big inspiration
I replaced the filter and added Lucas stop slip to the transmission today and did some more testing
While running the engine and getting the transmission fluid to the right level i also let the engine warm up to normal operating temperature first before going for a drive, still did the same old rough light acceleration which makes me think its transmission related rather then engine related since the engine was warm this time
Ill post back in a week or so with some results
Oh and keep up the good work Eric love your videos big inspiration
