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so now that im out here i checked all of my fuses.. all seem intact and fine. as well as my relays seem functionl,so i went and put a multi meter on the batt, turning out 19V..did also when i turn the key the inside lights turn off but not the headlight they dont even dim. hooked up a wire from negative batt post to to start ign wire, no volts going at all with the key held in
also when i turn the key all the way on and back off theres a strang squeeling noise coming from my throttle body, only happens for like 2 seconds..fuel pump fuse is out for now,was hoping to prime the engine with oil but no crank yet
bothered me to the point i couldn’t sleep so i went down really quick and tried…counter-clockwise the engine turns but takes quite a bit of force, clockwise the engine turns pretty smooth
bothered me to the point i couldn’t sleep so i went down really quick and tried…counter-clockwise the engine turns but takes quite a bit of force, clockwise the engine turns pretty smooth
definitely will try that in the morning…i hope thats not the case…i will be very frustrated if so lol lots of work for a non professional ><
definitely will try that in the morning…i hope thats not the case…i will be very frustrated if so lol lots of work for a non professional ><
Thanks for your reply Karl, yeah i turned the engine manually with a socket on the crank bolt, turns fine, i actually did that before i even bothered putting it in, also after it was in, and i got it from a place called HEM auto parts? was 150$ and with my minimum wage budget at the moment it seemed like a great chance..granted when it was delivered it had a bunch of old hoses crusty and melted wiring attached (which i made SURE were all thrown out), also i dont hear a clicking from the starter when i try to turn the key so i assume its not an issue with a seized engine…but tomorrow once its not so cold and dark im going to check all my fuses, and do some multi meter testing see what i find.
here is a picture of how the engine arrived
and also here is the picture of the transmission crack before putting it in. with a 10mm 1/4 socket beside it for size comparison
Thanks for your reply Karl, yeah i turned the engine manually with a socket on the crank bolt, turns fine, i actually did that before i even bothered putting it in, also after it was in, and i got it from a place called HEM auto parts? was 150$ and with my minimum wage budget at the moment it seemed like a great chance..granted when it was delivered it had a bunch of old hoses crusty and melted wiring attached (which i made SURE were all thrown out), also i dont hear a clicking from the starter when i try to turn the key so i assume its not an issue with a seized engine…but tomorrow once its not so cold and dark im going to check all my fuses, and do some multi meter testing see what i find.
here is a picture of how the engine arrived
and also here is the picture of the transmission crack before putting it in. with a 10mm 1/4 socket beside it for size comparison
i personally didn’t, when i took it to a shop for the magnet repair i asked if there was any need to adjust or replace sprocket or chain he said no it looked perfect..so going by his word,i’m not sure. it seems to be doing o.k. lately except for the high idle when i start it, but i just assume that’s my IAC because if i tap on it, idle goes back to normal or when i put it in gear
i personally didn’t, when i took it to a shop for the magnet repair i asked if there was any need to adjust or replace sprocket or chain he said no it looked perfect..so going by his word,i’m not sure. it seems to be doing o.k. lately except for the high idle when i start it, but i just assume that’s my IAC because if i tap on it, idle goes back to normal or when i put it in gear
update: got off work and cleaned the IAC with throttle body cleaner and Q-tips, tons of carbon, put it back together and no change, one of my friends said it sounds like a vacuum leak because my idle isn’t rough, but sitting and just idling my rpms go from 550-800 every 1-2 seconds it changes, not noticeable by listening but i can see my electronic gauge, so i don’t know if that’s a symptom and to be honest the problem isn’t HUGE but it is annoying, it only happens when i hit 3500 or above rpms and take my foot of the gas it drops to 300 and shakes, i haven’t tested it on the road doing that just in park in the driveway so i’m not sure really what’s going on..
update: got off work and cleaned the IAC with throttle body cleaner and Q-tips, tons of carbon, put it back together and no change, one of my friends said it sounds like a vacuum leak because my idle isn’t rough, but sitting and just idling my rpms go from 550-800 every 1-2 seconds it changes, not noticeable by listening but i can see my electronic gauge, so i don’t know if that’s a symptom and to be honest the problem isn’t HUGE but it is annoying, it only happens when i hit 3500 or above rpms and take my foot of the gas it drops to 300 and shakes, i haven’t tested it on the road doing that just in park in the driveway so i’m not sure really what’s going on..
no vacuum leaks so far..i sprayed almost all the vacuum lines and ends that i could see, some of them are dry rotted a little and cracked but no difference in idle when spraying, so i will try the IAC, i cleaned my ERG valve today it helped a little bit but problem is still there, but thank you for your reply!
no vacuum leaks so far..i sprayed almost all the vacuum lines and ends that i could see, some of them are dry rotted a little and cracked but no difference in idle when spraying, so i will try the IAC, i cleaned my ERG valve today it helped a little bit but problem is still there, but thank you for your reply!
Alright guys, i know it’s been a while but with my current tool setup i wasn’t able to do the repair for the magnet, but the magnet was broken off, so i took it to a shop to have them do it, took quite a bit of money, i dont like taking my car to shops but i figure there was nothing else i could do. Anyways long story short, i got my car back, seems they put the wrong size oil seal back on, so it was leaking, took it back again they fixed it for free, finally got it home, and its not dying anymore like before, but i notice if i take it up to about 3000 or 3500 rpms+ and left off the gas, my rpms drop to about 300 and the car shakes like it’s about to stall out, any other suggestions, i’ve been told to check for vacuum leaks, and i’m going to try that when it’s daylight tomorrow, but other than that, any ideas?
Alright guys, i know it’s been a while but with my current tool setup i wasn’t able to do the repair for the magnet, but the magnet was broken off, so i took it to a shop to have them do it, took quite a bit of money, i dont like taking my car to shops but i figure there was nothing else i could do. Anyways long story short, i got my car back, seems they put the wrong size oil seal back on, so it was leaking, took it back again they fixed it for free, finally got it home, and its not dying anymore like before, but i notice if i take it up to about 3000 or 3500 rpms+ and left off the gas, my rpms drop to about 300 and the car shakes like it’s about to stall out, any other suggestions, i’ve been told to check for vacuum leaks, and i’m going to try that when it’s daylight tomorrow, but other than that, any ideas?