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Sam Roodman

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Viewing 15 replies - 61 through 75 (of 119 total)
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  • in reply to: 1994 Accord Wagon Electrical Anomalies #868319
    Sam RoodmanSam Roodman
    Participant

      Apparently replacing the battery terminals resolved all the weird issues. i went with fleet terminals from the parts store because they had deeper wire valleys. Now if they only came in enameled versions, like the marine terminals things would be better.

      in reply to: 1994 Accord Wagon Electrical Anomalies #867153
      Sam RoodmanSam Roodman
      Participant

        Underhood fusebox was dry. Im wondering if the ECM is failing again and causing other stuff to wig out.

        in reply to: Cimerron won’t start #865672
        Sam RoodmanSam Roodman
        Participant

          This is a variation of the common cavalier and sunbird. Believe it’s also an Olds firenza. Iirc the 2.8 v6 was a pretty common gm motor in many vehicles

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          in reply to: Sparkles in my Oil #863742
          Sam RoodmanSam Roodman
          Participant

            In addition to a compression test I would also suggest a leakdown test. This will show any sealing problems indicating worn valves or a failing headgasket. While it won’t show the source of the sparkles it will give you some idea of engine health. Recommend getting a clean sample of the oil without slick 50 and pay the small price for analysis

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            in reply to: 98 Acura CL axel nut removal #863619
            Sam RoodmanSam Roodman
            Participant

              Use a flat bladed screw driver and pry up the crimp. Either use air tools or a long pipe on a decent breaker bar.

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              in reply to: Bizarre stuck-on distributor rotor, 94 Honda Civic #862790
              Sam RoodmanSam Roodman
              Participant

                The 10$ coil will most likely fail in a couple weeks. My civic was a princess and had to have her oem coil or it would eat it…15$ ebay coil lasted 3 weeks. 80$ autozone coil 10 months. Oem coil pulled from wrecked car 3 years and still fine

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                in reply to: Bizarre stuck-on distributor rotor, 94 Honda Civic #862669
                Sam RoodmanSam Roodman
                Participant

                  This is typical of most Hondas where the rotor is infrequently changed. Easiest way to remove the metal collar is dremel a slit down its side and then using a screwdriver and hammer smack it til it pulls apart. Much like removing a bearing race

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                  in reply to: 03-07 Jeep Liberty window regulator failures #862055
                  Sam RoodmanSam Roodman
                  Participant

                    I did this with an 04. Who ever decided nylon was a suitable material for a friction part was defiantly smoking crack. It was 50$ to do all 4 windows with a newer piece

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                    in reply to: #SalvageYardHack: How To Get Power in the Yard #860397
                    Sam RoodmanSam Roodman
                    Participant

                      Jump starter box would help then. I used one when looking for good fuel pumps

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                      in reply to: honda accord 94 exi transmission problem #860234
                      Sam RoodmanSam Roodman
                      Participant

                        D4 light blinking indicates a code. Find the 2 pin connector under the glove box (this is your diagnostic connevtor for the ecm) There are videos out there on how to use this. Simply though you can use a piece of wire or paper clip. Then put the car into II on the ignition. The light will then blink in a numeric patterns. Use this to troubleshoot you tranny prob

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                        in reply to: Recommended Tools for the Salvage Yard #860013
                        Sam RoodmanSam Roodman
                        Participant

                          I would recommend a cheap magnetic flashlight or one with a builtin tripod

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                          in reply to: [FIXED] 1996 Honda Accord Wheel Bearing #860009
                          Sam RoodmanSam Roodman
                          Participant

                            When I did this I removed the knuckle from the car. I then threaded long bolts into the mounting holes. Using a hammer I beat the bearin/hub on the bolts to knock it free of the knuckle. From there I used a 10 ton enerpac press (yeah I got it from an old factory auction) and by using the old rotor and a crummy old socket I picked up for a buck at a pawn shop pressed out the hub. Cut off the bearing inner ring with a dremel. From there I used the press with a bigger crap socket, married the hub to the bearing.

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                            in reply to: Rebuilt/second engines? #860006
                            Sam RoodmanSam Roodman
                            Participant

                              Extravagent Stereos offer no value to a car. If anything they are a detractor since everyone has their own tastes and usually most personal installers do a crap job

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                              in reply to: 2002 Sentra Crank no start #860002
                              Sam RoodmanSam Roodman
                              Participant

                                This is the right year for faulty crank/cam sensors. I had an 03 that would randomly die. There is either a tsb or recall on it. A recall has no time limit on it if it’s not been performed if I recall correctly. If its a tsb then you’re sol on a free fix

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                                in reply to: knock sensor #859735
                                Sam RoodmanSam Roodman
                                Participant

                                  They are 125$ for the toyota 1mz-fe and that requires 2

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                                Viewing 15 replies - 61 through 75 (of 119 total)
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