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I would do a leak down test. This would give you more sufficient diagnosis of the leak location. Leak down tester can be purchased or built fairly inexpensive. Additionally you can rent the tool from AZ for exhaust gas testing in your radiator, the fluid for testing is about 10$ iirc
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Cps is one of the usual culrprits. I damaged mine in doing an engine swap. The motor would run fair for 3 or 4 minutes then attempt to die usually with a code saying either the crank or cam shaft sensors were behaving intermittant
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Some years of integrated were compatible. But I would use a parts site to compare part numbers. I had an abs light for overrun. I looked into swapping it out but found a diy for replacing some parts. In the it turned out to just need filling it’s tank and reseting the fuse
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Ptu yes..sorry my autocorrect like pto over ptu. I believe front axles are same but I would verify using a dodge parts site. I never explored a special tcu so that I can’t help there since to my knowledge the awd system was vacuum driven not electrical persay
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Pto is the power take off its the chunk of the transmission connected to the rear drive shaft. The pumpkin is a slang term for the rear diff. This where your rear axles connect. I had a 97 with the 3.8 and there was nothing special about the engine. It bolted up to the awd transmission and my plan was for the day when the awd capped finally to just ditch all the awd trans and get a fwd trans and rear end set up
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You will need the awd shaft, pumpkin, and pto. I believe the entire rear end needs to be changed as well since I think the leaf configuration was different
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I removed the locking clip, I researched the model and these are for all 2001 to 2006 models (mine has a build date of 6/2005)
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Car is not obd2 plus that has no relation to your problem. The trick with most Hondas of that vintage is to replace the seals with a little bearing grease in the seating bore. Honda oem seals come prepared lubed on the inner ring. Use a proper seating tool and push the seal to be just flush. Insert the axle and there should be little to no visible space when the circlip has engaged on the axle stub. If I recall right on my 93 civic ex. It used 10w30, however I prefer ed to use Hondas manual transmission fluid when I could get it.
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Any chrysler product where the cps is pinned by the firewall. Especially the trucks.
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Sometimes the caps rot out the metallic traces. I had a similar problem with both my 93 civic p28 ecm and my 94 accord ecm. In most cases it’s probably a good idea to replace the caps before it becomes a problem
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Solid cell is known as code 0. Usually what happens is the capacitors blow out. If you open the ecu most likely it will smell of rotten fish or there will be a burn mark around 1 or more caps
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Try replacing the circuit card on the back of the speedo. Civics of that Era were known for faulty solder joints
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I would suggest cleaning the egr passages if you’re going to change fuel filters. They are a metal container sitting on the intake runners and under the fuel rail. As for changing the filter you need some crows feet wrenches and several extensions. I suggest one of the crows feet to be like a line wrench type to avoid slipping off.
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