Forum Replies Created
-
Replies
-
Do you hear the fuel pump run for a few seconds when you bring the key to run but not start?
Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk
This car has a sensor in the distributor which is driven by the cam. D4 blinks transmission codes. Cel is for engine codes. There is a blue connector under the glove box. I believe you used it to get the D4 codes. If the ecu does not blink or just sits solid you might have ecu code 0 which means failed ecm. Ecu on these cars is under carpet at foot of firewall. You may need to pull the ecu and check for blown capacitors. Leakage is usually a black tar and usually smells like rotten fish
Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk
C14 is the typical culprit. You may do best to get a rebuilt or if you get another might just change the Caps before this manifests itself again
Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk
Minimalistic you will need an ecu, vtec wiring, proper mounts, to exchange the radiator hose housing where thermo sensor b lives. Get an iac kit or do a conversion. It’s not as a simple drop in if you always had vtec. No trying to plug another site for anything more than its written resources but go to honda-tech.
Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk
Leave it stock. Give the car what the oem gave it when it left the factory.
Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk
I would suggest cleaning the engine first and add a uv dye to the oil to determine where it’s really coming from. If I remember the 2.2 it leaks from the valve cover and the cam seals after a fashion
Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk
I have to check but there are places out there with free shipping and price matching. I always do this and have the shop of my choice do mount and balance. You don’t really want to use stopleak if you can avoid it
Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk
Potentially the snap on brick supports this year. They had a 3pin adapter called hond-1
Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk
Solder pads on back of the cluster are failing. You may need to do all of them rather than just recommended ones
Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk
I enjoyed it very much. I think it had all the right elements for the diy type person to get the job done
Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk
Remove the nut holding them in place. They will slide free. Do not loose the springs
Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk
I’d like to add my 2 cents to this as well. I feel this is a great forum first off and would suggest moving some of the forums that dont generate as much traffic or perhaps that do generate a fair bit of traffic to the premium members area such as something where someone will moderate it and questions could be answered faster (Via moderator or expert). As a premium member in before the price increase, I do support the price increase because like many have said this is a good resource and a nice place to hang around and learn stuff. It might be better to find a cheaper server and move the video hosting to someone lesser expensive, but more in line with the overall vision.
As for the videos, while not exactly a ford fan, it really is a remarkable thing for the fairmont project. You are following a dream, and when that is completed there will be other dreams. Sometimes people have to sit tight to get the content they want. Last time I checked everything here is based on the content of a single person, his interactions, his editing, and his performing. I would even be interested in the minimally edited videos, including blooper reels and out takes. But to be said, the money is where passion sometimes has to draw the line. Part of the reason is youtube yes, but the variety also an impact.
Overall the masses will go where it interests them. And the creator will go where he finds his niche.
I’m still not quite sure how to achieve tranquility on this issue
Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk
Well the latch itself is brand new. We can see the cable tugging on it but how do you determine proper tension vs faulty cable
Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk