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Been broken a long time, upgrading tapatalk doesnt resolve, just says I cant login via incorrect user id/pwd, and I know imine is right
It’s possible the balancer belt is improperly tensioned or off a tooth. This might also be intensified by a failing motor mount. Either way please check with the place that did the work. I know for an example when I had a mechanic do the timing belt on the highlander, while it idled smooth and all by being off a tooth, it would set a bunch of idiot lights on the dash, so I had to have the belt redone
Still no change. I adjusted the transmission cable a little bit, but Im still left with the same result after the car has been driven. I attempted to clean out the TB as well and got a lot of junk out of it. Is it possible that the springs or TPS are messed up? My end result is either when the car is in P or N, it either revs up and down, or holds itself constant at 1500 RPM after driving and the car has gotten hot. Its not there if I let the car idle and warm up. I have felt the throttle cable when it does this and it doesnt appear the tranmission is tugging on it.
Relay turned out to be bad, spare I swapped with was bad, got lucky on the third relay. All 3 had continuity through the coil. Goes to show you can’t trust 20 year old relays
Im not familiar with the 4th Gen civics persay. Typically the Positive cable runs to both the Underhood fuse panel and to the starter. I know on the 5th gen civics its that way. Usually any other leads attached to the positive terminal are owner added for stereo or other accessories.
If your terminal ends are too loose on the battery. Goto the autoparts store and in the battery section, they have these lead caps you put over the terminals. They add the extra thickness that your worn out terminals need to clamp tightly.
Battery Post Shims, Lead, 2 Pack Part # AC110/A14079
You can loose the balance shaft sprocket, the BS belt while in the same area, would technically be rattling around and bouncing all over, potentially taking out the timing belt. BS can be removed, but its more than likely they didnt set it up correctly. (You have to set it at the same time you set timing. ) Your timing belt will be fine other wise. These are 2 different systems occupying your crank shaft driven gear. I recommend making sure one of the mounts (Rear one if vaccuum driven) is not broken in addition to checking your suspension.
I did replace the little electric valve behind the battery that has like 3 vaccuum lines on it, but if it were faulty and leaking, the idle would be horrible at all times other than in park after driving
Now tapatalk wont even let me log onto the site. Has ETCG abandoned the tapatalk reader? Is there a better one to use?
Yeah, they seem slow. My toyota nation stopped working as well. It seems like the only one I have that works anymore is garage journal.
Still doesn’t work. Upgraded the crummy tt and still have to use the Web page with annoying banner read forum faster on mobile get free tapatalk app
Are the 4 dead cylinders on the same bank? Run a leak down test determine cause from there
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[quote=”Evil-i” post=190183]An 18″, 24″ or larger pry bar can be a life saver. When you need one, nothing else will do. What I’m thinking of is one of those pry bars that resembles an oversized flathead screwdriver, but really isn’t a screwdriver.
Similarly, a set of tapered alignment punches really have no substitute.
Don’t ignore tools that come from the realm of woodworking. A selection of “C clamps” can be very useful third hands, and also come in handy for temporary emergency repairs. For instance, if a siezed steel bolt breaks off in an aluminum casting, like an alternator body, you can often re-install the alternator in its mounting brackets by clamping it down tight with a C clamp. These clamps also work well for tightening flakey exhaust system joints where the fasteners have rotted away, like where a downpipe attaches to the exhaust manifold. You can always come back to deal with the fubar fasteners on another day when you have the time.
Also, a cheap circular saw is handy when you need to cut 4″X4″ lumber to build some “log cabin” style cribbing to support a raised vehicle, and you don’t have enough jack stands, or the jack stands are way too tall to fit under the vehicle.[/quote]Both Tekton and hf have pry bars like that. Comes in a set of 4
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It all depends on what you wish to accomplish.
my recycle yard bag (usually remaining in my car) and mostly hf, or kobalt or just plain crappy stuff found lost in the yard
Dead blow mallet
Screwdrivers both Phillips and flats of several different sizes
100 piece screw driver tip kit including security bits.
Metric line wrenches
3/8 sockets in both sae and metric
1/4 deep wells in both sae and metric
Double ended metric box wrenches
15″ 1/2 breaker bar that has a 15″ conduit sheath. (Good for extra leverage)
Needle nose pliars
Lineman pliars
Vise grips of different types
Crc freeze off
Set of picks
Flash light
Diagonal cutters
Tweezers
Spoon (good for scraping quarters out of yucky cars)
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