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I had forgotten to post here. The transmission is automatic, however the problem turned out to be a failing alternator. while it was enough to make the plugs fire, it was not enough to charge the battery or power the rest of the accessories of the car as it was only putting out 7volts.
Turn signals nor hazards will work without the switch. Honda passed all this functionality through it making it mandatory. I would suggest getting a fsm or visiting the local library to gry a schematic and check for things that should be hot. I believe etcg as well as many others have videos for testing fuses, relays and switches
1995 GM vehicles generally were using ALDL as its OBD1. There are a few in the 95 family (Camaros I think) that were early version of the OBDII connector, yet still spoke ALDL. Typically you can use a paperclip to pull the codes on those vehicles, but if you wanted more specialized data things usually you needed a snapon brick with the appropriate cartridges or some form of the Auto-Xray (For my 91 chevy, I had an Auto-Xray 240; Old I know, but with the right cable/code it could do Dodge, GM, or Ford)
Clean and tighten the battery cables/terminals. Check Starter, associated relays, solenoid systems. Check ignition switch (I know yours is a saturn but hondas of certain vintages had ignition switches that would fail)
Honda Transmission failure depends on a combination of factors. There are several year groups known to be more failure prone to others (IE 2002-2006 Automatic Accords and TLs come to mind) Usually the biggest contributing factor is negligence of upkeep and normal maintanence. Otherwise, if properly kept up most last a very long time.
Wound up just removing the shorter bolts and not the whole assembly from the welded cradle (I have a 4×4) so decided not to mess with unbolting the 4by drive elements.
So with the change in forum infrastructure, will this now work with tapatalk, or is that a dead dream.
Soak the bolt in the penetrating oil of of your choice. (I like CRC-Freeze off, but your milage may vary) Then using the crank holding tool, use the biggest impact you can get your hands on. Ive used the Milwaukee Cordless 2767 without any issue as well as an air IR gun (forgot the model but it was at least 700 ft/lbs). This bolt is the key to any timing belt job and Im pretty sure all the videos say Get this loosened before you start any other part of the job.
Broken timing belt will often show 0 codes on an OBD-1 engine. Either remove the distributor cap and have someone just bump the engine to see if the rotor spins, or do as previously mentioned, pull the timing cover and inspect the belt physically. When the one on my 94 snapped (On the highway of all places) I pulled the distributor cap and had someone crank the car for a brief bump and determined stuff up top just aint spinning
Have you tried replacing the distributor? My 1994 had a misfire that eventually got worse and was really only noticible when in drive or another engaged gear. It didnt manifest until the engine got hot. (I know the post is old, but feel it could assist someone)
Is the area around your PCM or ASD relays damp? Is there a certain environmental factor that is consistant every time this thing pops?
Replace the batteries in your fob, they may be weak. Otherwise, see if the antenna is still connected to the box under the driver seat.
Not sure on the Silverado, but if you log in online to your local library and they have a subscription to Ebscohost, the ARRC (THough I think its now called motor something or Auto repair source) has fairly complete wiring diagrams.