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update for everyone on this issue. sorry for the late reply.
The issue ended up being u-joints. both the front and rear joints on the drive shaft were absolutely shot. Replaced joints and issue is resolved.
I was able to determine the issue by some advice from a friend. He told to me to check the joints after a drive. If they are very hot to the touch, they are no good. Drove about 5-10 miles and checked the joints…almost burned my hand from the heat.
Hope this helps!
I know that Dodge/Chrysler/Jeeps have issues with the governor pressure solenoid and transducer inside the transmission. I’m helping a buddy replace both in his jeep this weekend. The Rams have these sensors inside the tranny as well. I’m not sure if either of these would cause a no start situation and blow fuses, but I do not believe it requires completely pulling the valve body.
Thanks for the updates on progress!
This may seem trivial, but you should probably have your battery load-tested. it may show 12 volts, but not have enough cranking amps. Given that you said it starts on occasion when in neutral, the battery still could be the issue if it has a bad cell. I would take the battery out and take it to be tested
I think you are on the right path. You will need to make sure the blend door actuator is actually working first. If you verify the actuator is operating correctly, then you have a blend door issue. In my experience most times the actuator is the culprit. I have no experience with Isuzu so you should try to find a diagram of your HVAC system on the web. I was able to find this for my chevy pickup and it lead me straight to the blend door actuator.
Good luck
[quote=”college man” post=127439]see if this helps.
http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/solving-automotive-no-start-problems%5B/quote%5D
Defintely go through the steps to verify the starter is the problem. You could have voltage drop issue.
[quote=”ukrkoz” post=126518]It’s not an easy one, but those are known for the leaf spring shackle bolt to grind an oval hole in the frame. Resulting in bolt movement and metal clunk. I don’t really know what “clink” is, but that bolt will do metal on metal clunk.[/quote]
Still been way to cold to look into this too deeply. I was at the gas station this weekend and decided to look at the leaf spring shackles. Looks like the bolts are clear from the frame.
At least this issue has been ruled out.
It sounds like the starter is not throwing the staring gear all the way into the flywheel. Sounds like its most likely a starter issue.
Question for you….does the noise change pitch or get louder as the RPMs of the engine increase?
I’ve seen this problem before. Turn the ignition switch and get nothing, then crawl under the car and short it and and the car cranks. The starter solenoid was bad, but the owner of the vehicle opted for a whole new starter
thanks for the reply. That makes perfect sense, however now the noise comes when I’m at cruising speeds between 45-60mph. Then when I let off the accelerator, it stops. Foot back on accelerator and the noise comes back. Then sometimes, when braking and coming close to a stop, the noise comes back and then stops again once the truck comes to a stop.
got to love intermittent noises….
How old is the oil filter? Have you been off-road recently or run over anything that could have damaged the oil filter?
I have read on other forums recently that Fram filters have slipped in quality recently.
Thank you for the advice. I will definitely look into this. I’m waiting for a warm and dry day to get to this since its been so cold and wet around here recently.
I’ll keep everyone posted.
Does your vehicle have fuel injection or a carburetor?
If the truck is stranded somewhere, then jumping it, either from a car or any vehicle is the only option. I would suggest that if you are trying to jump with the small car, and are getting no where with it (for example the vehicles are hooked up for several minutes) and you are getting no results, I would stop to avoid causing any electrical system damage or physical harm.
The best solution would be in the event that the pickup truck is parked at your friend’s house. A battery charger is the better option. Jumping a battery does get the vehicle started (in most cases) however a common mis-conception is that the alternator will recharge the battery after driving it a while. All the alternator will do is keep the battery at its current charge after it was jumped.
With that being said, give the battery a slow charge overnight, but no more than 10 hours I would say. Also, if you see the battery charger’s meter bouncing back and forth, that is a good indicator that the battery itself is no good.
Good luck!
I would purchase/rent a good 1/2 inch drive torque wrench. You won’t regret it. I own a Kobalt and it has served me well.
It also never hurts to use a new hub nut.
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