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Yes you could, however you will need spend days researching the tip and tricks and upgrades that will be required to complete the job. Honda automatics are very frustrating because you cannot easilly remove and repair the valve block if it still does not shift properly after your repair. You also need to have a good idea of how it works because unless you find the faulty part you have probably wasted your time.
If the pedal is “high” then adjust the clutch and that may fix your problem. I think it is a manual adjustment at the top of the gearbox on your car. Ware on clutches depends on the driver and the sort of use of the vehicle. I would think it should last longer than 71k. In normal driving never slip the clutch in any gears other than 1st or reverse. In flat out driving you need to slip the clutch severely between gear changes. This kills clutches quickly. Some drivers waste their clutch buy slipping it on every gear change in normal driving.
Dropping the sump and valve cover and cleaning what you can is probably the best idea. But in realality just drive it and do t worry. Keep an eye on the oil level and condition and change it and the filter more often than the book says to. Best to do another oil change after a few weeks as the filter may fill up quickly the first time round. It only takes a microscopic grain of sludge to mess up a tappit. Cleaners may well dislodge something.
Different engines have different arrangements of filtering for the oil. Most modern engines feed the filter before any of the oil goes into the rest of the engine. Some feed certain components like timing chain with unfiltered oil. And some old engines only filter the oil on the way out. Therefore if yours filters all the oil sludge and dirt will get trapped in the filter. However if the filter blocks then the filter bypass will allow the sluge into the bearings etc.
This is another reason to use top quality filters as the bypass valve is often part of the filter. You want to make sure it never opens. Also when the engine is cold keep the revs low as a burst of revs may open the bypass and let sludge through.
I bought a moderatly cheap set in a red moulded case. It had about 6 pliers in it. The are so useless the pins just snapped off when I tried to remove a rusty snap ring!
Bad news. The brand new tensioner locked up on the freeway at speed and shredded the belt! All valves are bent.
I am guessing however I think you will have to loosen the bolt in the centre of the tensioner. Then there is probably a long threaded tensioning nut to tighten the belt. Easiest if you have one of those extra long ring spanners and a ratchet ring spanner
Quoted From DieselMan: _x000D_
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what about the digitals?_x000D_
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The digital ones are good. They calibrate whenever they are turned on. To be honest I think in the real world things are done by feel except for cylinder heads and wheel lug nutsThat will need a proper resprey. However it can be tarted up by scraping the loose clear off with a wooden scraper and spraying it with clear ooat in an aerosol. Give it about 5 coats letting it dry a bit between coats. Then after a few days sand out the
I dislike the cars of the 21st century. Expensive and time consuming to fix. Lots to go wrong. Lots of special tools required for repair work, clumpy styling and in many cases completely uninspiring to drive._x000D_
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I personally like 90’s European cars. Find