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Okay, so this may sound weird.
I have a scangauge OBD2 digital readout on this car. I got curious, so I set it to “IGN”, or ignition timing.
With the car somewhat cold, I fired it up. The timing sits at around 9-10* at idle (~1000rpm when cold), and when I rev the engine up to about 2k-2.5k rpms, timing goes up to about 15-17* on throttle, but when I let off the throttle, the knocking noise is present and timing jumps to 35*. Im going to monitor the timing the best I can tomorrow on my way to work, and see if there is still a relation between the two.
Although, I am trying to figure out why the ECU would throw so much timing at the engine when cold. Maybe one of you guys on here would know, but this leads leads me to think that maybe the noise is actual pre-ignition/pinging/knocking.
Im considering getting a new knock sensor and o2 sensors. I recently replaced the ignition rotor, coil and dist cap a few months ago. I still have the original coil, so I can try to put the old one back in and try it.
I already have new NGK spark plug wires in the mail, since some sort of vermin decided to naw a bit out on one of the wires 😆 .
EDIT: this car has the ULEV f23a4 motor, and its a J vin code, so it was built in Japan.These honda transmissions are very sensitive to fluid level. There is a transmission filter, but it is only serviceable with complete removal and teardown of the transmission. I remember eric saying in a video that 97 and older accords were known for firmer shifts.
Id say a drain refill is ok, but if the shifting gets worse then just drive it and leave the fluid. Make sure you use the honda fluid, as anything else is garbage.did you try it with dual zone on, and both zones set to the coldest setting? checking the a/c system pressure/charge is not a bad idea.
95 should be obd1, and 96 is obd2, so I would guess that the wiring harnesses are completely different.
That leak is exactly what my brothers chevy astro did. There is an o-ring/gasket of some sort that sits in between the pieces of the case.
If you feel confident enough, you can try to rebuild it. If not, I would recommend getting a rebuilt/reman one. And remember to add the correct type and quantity of oil to the a/c system when you re-fill it.I agree with rob781, do what you have to do to pull the plugs out.
I had a friends 2001 v6 accord throw misfire codes constantly when he first bought it. We put new plugs in it and its been running trouble free for almost 2 years.Update:
I have since adjusted my valves and switched my oil to a 10w-30 synthetic-blend oil and a new bosch oil filter. I checked the timing belt tension while I had the valve cover off, and the belt is still pretty darn tight and everything else looks fine.
The noise is relatively faint now, and really only audible with the windows down, and on deceleration (cold obviously). I live on a hill, and drive down it every morning for work, which is when I hear the noise mostly, after the first 1/4 mile, I don’t hear it much. The car is quiet like a mouse once warmed up to operating temp, which is usually within a mile of home. I have a scan-gauge so I can watch the water temp rise and the noise fade.
I am beginning to think its either piston-slap or something with the transmission (which is original to the car); either of which is to be expected from high-mileage Honda’s of this vintage. Either way I’m just going to drive the wheels off this car.i cant tell you much about fitment, but I will tell you having a lock-up torque converter is beneficial on the freeway or highway cruising. Better fuel economy and less heat build-up in the trans.
is the belt tensioned manually or is automatic? it would help a bunch if you could tell us what vehicle you are working on.
Normally, you want to ‘bed-in’ new brake pads. You have to go relatively easy on them for a short period (I know EBC pads have a very elaborate bed-in for their new ‘green/red/yellowstuff’ line of pads).
Its weird that you smelled brakes so soon, it sounds like they may be dragging a little. disc or drums?Where did you buy the drums? I worked for autozone for quite a while and I had a few cases wear a drums or rotors were not machined to the correct tolerance/spec. I would double check everything else as well, its very easy to do drums the wrong way.
Also, make sure you spray down the new drums with brakleen, as they do tend to come with residual oil from the machining process, which if not addressed can affect braking performance.I checked the valves yesterday, only 5 valves needed adjustment. I looked around, all the cam lobes look fine. I replaced the valve cover gasket (for the 4th time) and I changed my oil. Im trying rotella t6 5w-40. I was running valvoline synthetic high mileage 5w-30. Only had 2,400 on the oil, so I left the filter. I haven’t run the car yet today, as Im going to replace the input speed sensor in my friends 01 maxima first.
Half a can is a lot of fluid. I would guess you cleaned it on the car? Did you remove/disconnect any connectors?
I would remove the plugs again and inspect them. If they are wet, then there is still some throttle body fluid in the cylinders. In that case, i would leave the plugs out to let it evaporate.