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Ok, no obd2… I have the camshaft sensor on its way, but here’s the symptoms. At an idle the car stalls, smell of burning (no we haven’t driven it since this occurred and noise out of the exhaust, quickly going to the nearest autoparts store for a “sounds like” diagnosis before heading home and parking it). Prior to this it was stumbling on acceleration, 3000 rpms, but that stopped and this appeared.
Should I also get the crankshaft sensor, the auto parts guy said likely the camshaft, that’s where the confusion came I think in talking to other parts stores.
Quick question, Do I need to drain the Oil before replacing the Oil Pressure Switch?
We’re still working on the J1962 16-pin diagnostic connector wiring for proper diagnosis, but have the new switch in and want to go ahead and put it on in.
Wow, yes, that may be very helpful…
“#16 should go to the fuse block at fuse #9. The radio is powered from the same fuse but there is a connector in the underdash fuse block that connects the DLC and the radio to fuse 9”
The roadside service was having the key locked up in the car and having a tech come to the rescue… he was forever with it, we also had hiim make a spare, but long story short, when we left we had no radio from that5 point onward.
Thank you both, we’re still on its diagnosis if bad. It’s a 2003 CRV. The auto place couldn’t get a reading on it either, we’re searching for a dead fuse possibility. Weather’s bad right now, so beyond the quick check, not much more done right now. The fuses to pull in the video to reset the light (which is on, btw), would they be the same? The check engine and abs lights are both on.
Game plan
Clean the pcv, fuel injectors, etc. and of course checking spark plugs, etc.
Replace the Oil Pressure Switch and new gaskets and o rings for the Crankshaft (do see oil residue near around the joining of the cover to the body)
Get the pressure kit for the diagnosis on the radiator problem
Address the power steering once and for all with its leak. looks like the bottom reservoir tube needs replaced and leak somewhere out of view below or behind the pump)If sputter continues after these are done, address the Transmission as its source
Sound good?
Good news in that the Head test came clean. The fluid in the radiator was also low, but not like it was before. He said that when the rpm problem occurred the electronics also acted up, lights dimming and such. We’re taking out the pcv now, checked the oil pressure sensor as it is faulty having only blinked on and then immediately off telling us to check the oil but it was dry (but it is still ok now). Transmission fluid is a-ok and no apparent indication of a problem there (fluid still pink, no gear sounds or such). Will go over that video.
Seems to be, or am hoping?, the radiator is separate from the oil issue, but that’s just a hope at this point… but the Head test came clean, so breathing a sigh of relief there..
The manual is saying we need to empty out the coolant before removing the manifold… looking at it, I’m not seeing why this would be needed. We have the throttle body removed and were just going to clean it from there. But being awkward to get to the areas gunked up thinking we should just pull it out and clean it up. Looks straight forward, a few screws and it will pop off. (yes I know the gaskets will have to be replaced) Is there something I’m not seeing concerning the Cooling system? Just wanting to take off the upper manifold, clean it up and reinstall and continue with running the OBD1 diagnostics.
Quick question for confirmation… the upper intake manifold hole that goes on the EGR is supposed to be a HOLE, not what appears to be a solid layer of carbon. Looking like the problem was not the egr but manifold itself 🙁
Thanks for the feedback, we’ll know soon if it can be removed from the bottom. The diagram is of an automatic with a 4.0, mine’s a standard 2.3L. But the best one I could find showing how connected with what. The pipe looks to be aluminum and the bolt copper, the EGR steel alloy. Good precautions brought up even if the part is off the vehicle. Wish me luck! A simple thing that turns out to be a two or three day affair, lol.
Oh my, that’s a can of worms. Personally if that happened to me I’d ask, so what are you replacing it with? I have to get to work and you just took my wheels.
But more to the issue… when is a car unsafe? Say I have bad brakes, and I want to fix it myself just waiting on payday, but I took it in due to a recall on the airbag and they want to do the brakes for a fee much higher than what I can do them for myself. It can be a truly arbitrary thing… If car dealerships can take a person’s car, what are the stipulations in its legality? Will a person have to be a certified mechanic to get their car back?
So it is safe to torch with the ERG Valve still connected to the system at the manifold exhaust tube? It’s no longer a closed system as we took out the smaller screws (with ease) from the intake manifold and the gasket does need replacing on inspection.
Looking at the goal of taking out the EGR valve and replacing or cleaning it (new ones for this model aren’t cheap even on ebay), we’re going to see if the tube can be removed more easily from underneath where it connects directly to the manifold. Seeing if we can just pull the EGR out with the tube still attached. Then I would have no issue with the torch use off and away from the system. Will see when the sun’s back up weather permitting.
But I do want to make sure I am hearing right… if all else fails, torching while connected (it’s all metal parts) is safe? This is the 1 and 1/8 inch bolt that connects the EGR Tube from the Manifold to the EGR Valve. Must use an open ended wrench due to the tube interference.
The Bolt that connects #6 (tube) to #2(EGR)
in the diagram.
My husband’s concerned that I will break the bolt or tube doing this. We’ve tried everything except the torch which I’m hesitant on doing as it is fuel part related. Force is now causing the tube to bend out of shape, so we stopped. Has anyone worked with dry ice on car parts other than spray rust removal? I’m thinking applying it on the tube itself, spray in more anti-seize and try once more.
