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How is the oil distributed?. The leak is almost just under where the oil filter is going in. It’s tight with view hard and it is night now so can’t really get a good re-look at it until morning, but that’s where I have the drip…oil w/ coolant.
Just an interesting page in my searching… will see if he did something like this
http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/OilCooler.shtml
I have to get down into it to see what’s happening there, so my question right now is, is there coolant in the block that serves as an oil cooler? Any cut-outs of the internal workings of the block?
In getting to it, if he put an external on, where is that usually mounted? Didn’t see anything that looked like an extra radiator…and second, would an external remove the need for a new block provided it’s confirmed once I get down to it? In other words, would this external fix the problem if the cooler part internally is confirmed bad?
Interesting, to the universe at large…why are they selling them for the 1993 F. Rangers 2.3L? Ok, it could be a simple as a cracked o-ring or as costly as a new head if this is the case. The prior owner wasn’t one for torquing to specs, a big dude who did all his repairs and the EGR Tube can attest to the extreme tightness everything was put in. The oil and coolant he changed before we signed off on it. Hopefully it’s not ruined on the inside if this is the case:
http://www.vfaq.com/mods/oilcool.html
Yes, I stated before that I found oil in the coolant reservoir but no coolant in the oil. This is what refined my search to the oil cooler.
I first thought the horror of a cracked gasket or head when I saw that mix, and this is the test the mechanics use to confirm the need is great to do a head job and see exactly which it is. However, the test came clean, so it is not always the case an oil and coolant mix is indicative of a head issue, but can be symptomatic of other issues. In researching I found other causes of oil and coolant leaks. Water pump and Oil Cooler being the two I am studying up on now. I just wish there were some diagrams of the system for it’s taking apart to get to the root of the problem. The confirmation will be in finding it and having the issue fixed BEFORE we have a cracked head. I have found some videos and instructions on the replacement of water pumps, but not on oil coolers, what the oil filter is screwed into. Anyone having done this type of work and can help describe how to get to it is most appreciated.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NPDL76?keywords=head gasket test&qid=1454108425&ref_=sr_1_1&sr=8-1
There appears to be oil droplets and gunk bits in the antifreeze reservoir but the oil case looks free of antifreeze. Oil Cooler or water pump? the leak is in the general area of the oil filter and where I believe the oil cooler would be, the water pump I believe is behind the radiator fan in the front. too far from the leak drip. All the coolant hoses in this truck look new, they can’t be more than 6 months tops.
update, just brought it up to temp, and it is an oil and antifreeze drip. Yesterday we had the coolant run down in front of the truck at a convenience stop, clearly green coolant. Here now in trying to duplicate, it’s oil with the green tinge of coolant. But more oil than coolant. blown gasket somewhere? It’s low, below the manifold where the singular slow drip is coming. And when it is warm and given gas.
Where I’m at today. Changed out the spark plugs, but they did look pretty good; no oil, excess carbon, etc. However, the P0303 code is now the multi 300 with the 304 and 302 added to the 303. And a P1259 as well. The ignition coils went back in the same order, so I am going to rule out operator error in reseating them and look again at the wiring harness and coils. She has a new PCV valve, oil pressure switch, camshaft position sensor, and spark plugs. Researching further, found that Hondas should have their valves adjusted every 100,000 miles, she’s at 138,030. It was already in the plans to replace the gasket and o-rings, so will pick up that nifty tool Eric used in his how-to video and get that checked off.
With the P1259 now added to the 300’s, does this help narrow down where the problem is?
Have the new camshaft position sensor in, the code changed to adding “p” on the end P0303 P, anything significant about the new “P”?
Update, we have the OBD2 back (bad 10 amp under the hood), code PO303. 3 cylinder misfire. If a sensor of the OE# 375XX-PNB-003 series , it’d be likely the camshaft (510) and not crankshaft (500)?