[Cecilia]

I have to chain hoist it? Jiminey cricket, this design is insane. Have dropped many an oil pan facepalm. Thank you for responding, wow.

[Cecilia]

Yep, p1259 came back again. It’s coming on when driving above 3000 rpms. Parked and Idling to 4000 it is fine, but in taking it out and coming back up the hill, it pops back on and loss of power.

[Cecilia]

Ah, yes, I cleaned and replaced the screens, #5 and 11, cleaned out the solenoid itself, has a new cam sensor put on on the intake cam. Not sure if I need to do the exhaust one yet but if I have to take her down to the cylinders I will or if suggested to do it.

I figured out the Oil Control Valve removal (that was a piece of cake,lol) and cleaned it up. No engine light running it in variable speeds parked, but in taking it out on the returning home at 4000 rpms, she lunged and started missing/hesitating again. This morning I cleaned it again, more gunk up had worked up into the screens. It’s idling good now but without driving like last night, will take her out in a little bit. There’s definitely an oil pan gasket leak.

my plan:
1.) VTEC Oil control valve, new serpentine belt (it’s rough), engine repair goop (2 part formula)
2.) oil pan gasket, air filter, 2nd oil change, engine repair goop and filter.
3.) .possibly need to replace the VTEC solenoid itself if these fail

Concerns….
4.) The issues in possibilities if these fail or isn’t done right away to prevent further damage, stretched drive chain, cam shaft damage, cylinder heads.

[Cecilia]

Have cleaned her all up, but still have a p1259 code, replaced the solenoid oil pressure switch, but looking like it’s the VTEC Oil Control Valve. Any videos or how to’s on replacing it?

no# 7

Attachments:

• vtecoilcontrolvalve.png

[Cecilia]

I have pulled the valve cover off hoping to do the valve adjustment, but the rockers and interior are covered in carbon. We do do our oil changes faithfully so I was shocked. Any how to’s on removing the rocker arms? Does the timing chain have to be removed, or can I do this without that step?

I do understand I may have to go further down to the cylinder heads once I get these off for cleaning and inspect for where the carbon is coming from. However, the spark plugs did look good. Pointers on what could have caused all the soot other than lack of oil changes as that is done faithfully? It’s pretty bad 🙁

[Cecilia]

She’s good to go and my husband drove her to work today with flying colors. She’s also a lot quieter than when we got her. As a funny aside, whn he took her out yesterday,he came back saying coolant was just streaming out. I was totally bummed, checked everything and everything dry…ugh I thought, we will have to take her in after all. Went to remove my tools and turns out the old drained coolant container was in the back of the truck and had tipped over. I had to laugh. Anywho, Thank you guys so much for all your help.

[Cecilia]

Figured it out! Fuel Vapor Canister, connects back where the Egr and IAC are in the manifold.

Have replaced the Valve Cover Gasket, the Water Pump, refilled with fluids, but looks like I do need to do the oil pan gasket as there was a fresh drop of oil this morning that seems to follow back up to there. Will know tomorrow if the Cooling leak was resolved.

[Cecilia]

I cannot figure out what this is and what it plugs into. Reassembling everything and this is staring at me mockingly. I don’t have a camera, it’s mounted below the AC coolant intake valve to the battery stand. It has two tubes coming out, one small and electrical connected in but the other that is mocking reaches all the way back to the firewall and is just a tube, but I cannot figure out what it plugs into. It has two caps that in taking them off look like a filter of some sort. What is it and where does the end plug into?

Attachments:

• whatisit2.jpg

[Cecilia]

We just bought it last month, had to clean-up the IAC, EGR and upper Manifold for the emissions due to the NoX. The Coolant appears to have been indeed the water pump, clear coolant stains baked into surrounding areas upon its removal. Getting the caked on gasket off where I am with that part of it. The oil droplets and small gunk pieces in the coolant seem to have been residual, possibly the cap was off when the prior owner had it. The coolant drained out is clean with nothing floating on top, why I’m suspecting contamination from external source in the reserve. Upon the second duplication to get the leaks repeated, was able to see two separate leaks, oil to the back and coolant to the front. And being there is no oil-cooler on the truck, the mix on the first duplication that dripped was most likely puddling together, the coolant flowing back into the oil.

The Oil Filter looked good on its take out, no oil on the outside. The oil itself, however is black as dirt. Tonight I took off the valve cover and the gasket was in sad shape, new one going in as soon as the weather permits… big storms expected through here tonight into tomorrow, but wanted to get a look see inside there so went ahead and did that. The next level down looks dry where the head is on the case, seeing on the back-end impossible, but hands coming back clean there. Looks like the oil leak is located to the valve cover gasket. But I am not so inclined to have it diagnosed just to that one area just yet.

We got it for a great price from my son’s friend’s father in law, knowing there was an issue with the emissions. We’re still happy with the purchase and have the time and hardheadedness to address a 23 year old truck. After everything done to get the Taurus back up and running, the truck doesn’t scare me, lol. Just so long as that head’s still good will keep on plugging away at her.

[Cecilia]

This is on one of my heater core tubes, it appears to be coming from the outlet and not the inlet to the heater core. What is it?

Attachments:

• whatisitcrop.jpg

[Cecilia]

Yes photo’s would be helpful, my son’s not home to take a pic of it and I don’t have a cellphone. I think you nailed it tho. THANK YOU!

[Cecilia]

I have no idea what it is, the oil pressure sensor is below the EGR from what I am finding, not in the oil pan….

[Cecilia]

Quick question to confirm I have properly identified a part. The oil pressure sensor is in the oil pan? I have an oil encrusted hexnut with a screw coming out with wires electrical taped around the screw end sticking out in the side of the oil pan.

I think I need to get the connector and replacement sensor and wire it properly?

[Cecilia]

Duplication resulted in 2 leak areas, and one oil. I now believe it’s two separate issues, oil and coolant with the coolant puddling and mixing into the oil. New duplication has just oil and two coolant ones when heated near the water pump. How many freeze plugs are there on a 2.3L? Diagram? Hoping I don’t have to pull the whole engine out to reach them. Anything guidance in the the fact it is when hot they both drip?

[Cecilia]

Thank you, ok there’s no mayonnaise in the oil cap. The oil case, stick and visual inspection into it all looked clean, save some darkening of the oil, but not bad. Morning will come soon enough for a renewed look at it. Thank you again.

[Author]

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