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I have also been in your position and have tried to repair a blower motor. I cut it apart with a band saw, packed the bearing, glued the thing back together, reinstalled it, and the motor was quiet for about 2 minuets. Then it started squeaking again. My advice, replace it and save the time and effort, this coming from a guy who rebuilds everything from transmissions to wheel cylinders. As for the fan, once you remove the retainer, it will come off with some force. What I do when they fight me is cut a u shape into a piece of plywood so you can slide the plywood around the shaft between the fan and the motor. Then put it in a vice and hammer out the center with a drift pin. This spreads out the force so you don’t break the plastic fins and you can put more force on it. Hope that helps.
I have also been in your position and have tried to repair a blower motor. I cut it apart with a band saw, packed the bearing, glued the thing back together, reinstalled it, and the motor was quiet for about 2 minuets. Then it started squeaking again. My advice, replace it and save the time and effort, this coming from a guy who rebuilds everything from transmissions to wheel cylinders. As for the fan, once you remove the retainer, it will come off with some force. What I do when they fight me is cut a u shape into a piece of plywood so you can slide the plywood around the shaft between the fan and the motor. Then put it in a vice and hammer out the center with a drift pin. This spreads out the force so you don’t break the plastic fins and you can put more force on it. Hope that helps.
3 things come to my mind, valve train, bottom end, or tct. If you cant tell where it is coming from, hook up a timing light. If the noise happens at a lower frequency than the light it is in the valve train and you should look at your valve lash, if the noise is at the same frequency as the light flashing, it is bottom end. To diagnose a bottom end noise, do a power balance test per erics video. If the noise does goes away during the power balance test, it is most likely rod knock, if the noise stays during the test, it is most likely piston slap. The last thing i thought of was possibly a tct and that is kind of a shot in the dark. The 2.4 L engine uses a timing chain and they tap sometimes, if none of the other tests i mentioned show you anything, the tct may be something to look at, I have successfully repaired them in the past. Let us know what you come up with.
[video]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bAOmUjAjNjE[/video]
3 things come to my mind, valve train, bottom end, or tct. If you cant tell where it is coming from, hook up a timing light. If the noise happens at a lower frequency than the light it is in the valve train and you should look at your valve lash, if the noise is at the same frequency as the light flashing, it is bottom end. To diagnose a bottom end noise, do a power balance test per erics video. If the noise does goes away during the power balance test, it is most likely rod knock, if the noise stays during the test, it is most likely piston slap. The last thing i thought of was possibly a tct and that is kind of a shot in the dark. The 2.4 L engine uses a timing chain and they tap sometimes, if none of the other tests i mentioned show you anything, the tct may be something to look at, I have successfully repaired them in the past. Let us know what you come up with.
[video]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bAOmUjAjNjE[/video]
For Honda, in my limited experience use either Honda manual transmission fluid or engine oil because it is thinner than gear oil. As for the clutch, I replace clutch fluid every 90-100 thousand miles, whenever I replace brake fluid. Just use DOT 3 brake fluid for the clutch. Procedure is very easy and I don’t know of any special procedures. No reason you shouldn’t be able to do it yourself, best of luck.
For Honda, in my limited experience use either Honda manual transmission fluid or engine oil because it is thinner than gear oil. As for the clutch, I replace clutch fluid every 90-100 thousand miles, whenever I replace brake fluid. Just use DOT 3 brake fluid for the clutch. Procedure is very easy and I don’t know of any special procedures. No reason you shouldn’t be able to do it yourself, best of luck.
Alright, I can pull the shifter without removing the transmission so I will pull that back out. The shift forks dont look that hard to replace so I will try it and post pictures if I can. Thanks for the help.
EDIT
What is still confusing me is why it wouldnt go into any gear. If the 1,2 shift fork or gate was bent, it should only affect that set of gears. Is it possible that all of my shift forks are bent? Seems unlikly to me, is there any shared shift mechanisms?Alright, I can pull the shifter without removing the transmission so I will pull that back out. The shift forks dont look that hard to replace so I will try it and post pictures if I can. Thanks for the help.
EDIT
What is still confusing me is why it wouldnt go into any gear. If the 1,2 shift fork or gate was bent, it should only affect that set of gears. Is it possible that all of my shift forks are bent? Seems unlikly to me, is there any shared shift mechanisms?An oil fouled spark plug boot could cause the vibration. I would definetly start by addressing that problem, it is not difficult to replace the spark plug well o rings and eric has a step by step video on just that repair. While you are at it, throw in new plugs and wires.
An oil fouled spark plug boot could cause the vibration. I would definetly start by addressing that problem, it is not difficult to replace the spark plug well o rings and eric has a step by step video on just that repair. While you are at it, throw in new plugs and wires.
Start the car with the engine cold and then plug the tailpipe. This will make any exhaust leaks more noticible. In your case, pay extra close attention to the exhaust manifold gasket and exhaust manifold for warpage. Also look for rust or cracks in the manifold or a bad downpipe gasket. Fix the leak regardless because you can burn out a valve or force a rich condition.
Start the car with the engine cold and then plug the tailpipe. This will make any exhaust leaks more noticible. In your case, pay extra close attention to the exhaust manifold gasket and exhaust manifold for warpage. Also look for rust or cracks in the manifold or a bad downpipe gasket. Fix the leak regardless because you can burn out a valve or force a rich condition.
Those numbers are the range of acceptable torque. For example, 15-22 ft lbs, any torque between those 2 numbers would be acceptable. In the case of step 3, you tighten the bolt an additional 90 to 100 degrees of rotation. Also remember to torque the middle bolts first and work your way out.