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I fail to see a link between oil being over full and timing jumping. My theory without hearing it would be he over filled it to the point where the crank was dipping into the oil as it rotated, making air bubbles, causing low oil pressure to proceeds to destroy the engine. Does the engine turn over? Can you rotate the balancer with a wrench? If it does crack does relative compression sound good?
Can you only see global obd2 data with your scan tool or can you also get to oem enhanced dtc’s? Do you have mode 6 capabilities on your scanner? This is extremly helpful in diagnosing misfires on fords in my experience. What codes do you have?
Some oil consumption is normal, how much are you losing? Oil generally results in blue smoke, white would indicate water due to normal condensation, coolant entering combustion chamber, etc. If its consuming an excessive amount I would start by pulling plugs and looking for evidence of oil burning (white deposits on plug)
I fixed this issue. I pulled the pan and removed shift solenoids a and b. I tested them by applying 12 v and both clicked and drew equal current and did not allow me to blow air through them when energized. When not energized however, shift solenoid b was much more restrictive when I blew through it. I replaced this solenoid and the transmission stopped slipping.
Did you use the test light to test the ground or just the power? Ohmmeter is not enough of a test for a ground, some will show good continuity but cannot support reasonable current flow. I do voltage drop testing instead whenever possible. Could be a bad pump out of the box, I would connect 12v straight off the battery through an ammeter to the pump power feed with the key off for a few seconds and see if the pump is capable of running and to verify that there is enough current flow to rule out a bad ground.
I will check to see if that ground stays after it shifts to third. I already checked for a short to ground on that wire and did not have one but if a transistor driver in the PCM wasnt turning off that would make sense. Thanks, will report back.
I agree an alternator is the most likely cause. I would just check the alternator fuse and do a voltage drop test on the ground for the battery and alternator. If all checks out then replace an alternator.
I agree an alternator is the most likely cause. I would just check the alternator fuse and do a voltage drop test on the ground for the battery and alternator. If all checks out then replace an alternator.
A common failure point on expeditions is the rear blend door. They are pretty straight forward to get to (behind rear right trim) and I have had luck repairing them in the past rather than replacing. Just something to look into, no guarantees.
A common failure point on expeditions is the rear blend door. They are pretty straight forward to get to (behind rear right trim) and I have had luck repairing them in the past rather than replacing. Just something to look into, no guarantees.
I would not run tranny fluid through engine oil because I dont think it would help. ATF does not have detergents like engine oil. The detergents in oil cause the dirt particles to float and get sucked into the oil filter. If contamination is suspected, get as many pieces out as possible and then run a lighter weight oil or an engine oil flush through, change the oil after 50 miles or so. I will tell you however, it is not difficult to do an intake manifold gasket on a pushrod engine without dropping crap into the lifter valley.
I would not run tranny fluid through engine oil because I dont think it would help. ATF does not have detergents like engine oil. The detergents in oil cause the dirt particles to float and get sucked into the oil filter. If contamination is suspected, get as many pieces out as possible and then run a lighter weight oil or an engine oil flush through, change the oil after 50 miles or so. I will tell you however, it is not difficult to do an intake manifold gasket on a pushrod engine without dropping crap into the lifter valley.
Yes there is a bulb. It is a pretty straight forward repair but it can be a pain because you leave the shift cover on the slider. It is either 4 screws or 4 clips that hold the shift cover piece on and then there are 2 wires (red if i remember correct) that you need to disconnect. When you disconnect the connector, the bulb comes with it. Doesn’t take more than a few minuets and the bulbs are cheap.