Forum Replies Created
-
Replies
-
Personally, it wouldn’t work very well for me, the sump is one of the lowest, if not lowest part of my car, and the sump plug is on the bottom, so it’d get sheared off right away. (We have a lot of speed bumps and such, some of my sumps have battle scars. :whistle: )
The sump plug as-is works fine for me, I don’t really feel the need to replace it with a little tap.
On sumps with a sideways plug I guess it could be nice to have?
“Fill for life” usually means the life of the car, which is usually something like 10 years or, lets say, the 120k miles Jeep quoted.
I’m pretty sure a large portion of new cars barely even makes it that far, on average. To keep your car going beyond its intended “life” usually means doing maintenance to “for life” parts.A lot of transmissions are “filled for life”, some even don’t come with a drain plug anymore. Doesn’t mean that they don’t like having their oil changed, in fact, doing oil changes (a little earlier) really prolongs the life of a gearbox well beyond its orignal “for life” life expectancy.
On manual cars, I try to stick to something like 10 years or 80k miles (the $20 in gear oil isn’t the end of the world either), or whenever the driveshaft came out and poured all the oil out anyway.
I’m not sure how long ATF in an automatic is supposed to last, I’ve never owned one or worked on one, but I’d say replace it sometime. I know automatics are very picky about their ATF being clean and good, so why not now? 🙂 Cleaning the oil extends the life v/s running it with dirty oil.
Semi metallic.. Some of those can be real squeaky when cold. Doesn’t affect anything other than the racecar-level of your car.
[quote=”CanDo807″ post=177256] LF wheel locked up & skidded, RF did not.[/quote]
Thats not right, check for leaks and/or bleed again, see if that makes a difference.And don’t forget the bedding in of the brakes.
I try to stick to either once a year, or whatever miles interval, whichever comes first.
My track car just gets an oil change at the beginning of season, it probably does 3k a year.
My daily driver every 12k (which is about twice a year..)Take the pads out and give the leading edge a small chamfer with a file or some sand paper, if they don’t already have a 45 degree bevel to it as-is.
And, as suggested, bed in the pads properly.
I don’t know, maybe they unplugged it to pass (tailpipe sniffer) emissions or something? Who knows..
Anyway, I guess I can finally focus back on my resto-mod build. 🙂
Messing around with ducktape to plug vacuum ports: no change. Assume manifold is airtight from the venturi to the cylinders, so it must be a mixture (control) issue then, as you said, college man.
Googled some about adjusting the mixture/idle on older venturi setups, it might be a computerized install, but all it is is an oldskool mechanical setup with a few stepper motors controlling the adjusters. The hose-adjuster is the full load mixture, supposedly the other adjuster the idle mixture.
So in I went, screwdriver in hand to remove and inspect the idle stepper… to find it unplugged? Well then…
Plugging in the idle stepper fixed the issue. I don’t know why it was unplugged to begin with. Car idles perfectly on LPG now, problem solved.
I use Spritmonitor.de to keep track of my fuel consumption, and I input any other expenses (including service, repairs, tax, insurance, etc..) in there.
A spreadsheet would work too, but online is easy, as I have more than 1 computer.
I also keep a complete build and service log on a specific forum for my car.
[quote=”Evil-i” post=176778]There has to be a starter relay somewhere in the system. If you didn’t have a relay, you’d have thick battery cables going to your ignition switch, which isn’t the case.[/quote]
A lot of starters (all the ones I’ve seen on passenger cars anyway) have the relay and solenoid in one, direct battery connection in for power, thin control wire that goes to the ignition switch.
The shop I went to has paid diagnostic time, its also not a dealership but a brand specialist (with focus on old-timers.)
[quote=”451Mopar” post=176322]it seems to cost close to 1% the agreed coverage value per year[/quote]
I wish it were that low. car insurance here (also) includes 3nd party coverage which usually adds a hundred to over a couple thousand a year depending on various things. (drivers’ age, crash history, car, cars original retail value (?! how would that affect 3nd party?!), miles per year, (you’d say more would be cheaper because more experienced driver, but its the other way around), where you live (agian 3nd party, not theft insurance), and more stuff like that.)(3nd party coverage is mandatory to even drive your car on the street, and easily checked/ticketed with automated license plate scanners and even automatically ticketed if you have a registered vehicle without insurance.. I hate living in ‘1984’, on the other hand, it keeps others from crashing and then not paying up. Or so I thought. :dry: I paid more for the insurance than they ever paid me, and to be honest, only to keep the gov’t off my ass.)
Special tools for the Renault K4M engine to replace the timing belt.
A (Bosch) diesel injector socket. Which I will from now on not really use ever again, the only engine I needed it for died and won’t be replaced..
Similar to this one.Before then, a box of ratcheting wrenches, to fill the gap between not being able to fit a socket wrench and not wanting to repeatedly turn-lift-turn-lift-turn a regular wrench in a tight space. Quite pleased with these.
Still on my shopping list:
-a tool cart, every time I go to Ikea and see this thing I get the itch to buy it, but that one is not tall or big enough for my taste.
-a smaller torque wrench for that 10-40 nm range.
-3/8 socket set, haven’t felt a real need, but it might be nice to have / might use it if I had it.
-socket rails
-a better angle gauge if I’m going to do more engines.
-impact wrench, either electric, or pneumatic + a compressor upgrade.
-maybe a better/bigger tool box? Its always too small, isn’t it? 😆
-Still considering a box trailer to use as a mobile tool box / portable workshop, but I can’t really park it anywhere in my urban living environment.
