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I’ve had this kinda stuff happen too, in my case it ate the threads in the nut, but it could be either until you get it apart.
You could try pushing on it with the allen key while undoing the nut?
It might very well be that the brake rotor bedded in with a slightly warped wheel hub on the old bearing, and after replacing the hub/bearing, it needs to readjust to its new situation. If that’s the case, the vibration should go away by itself after some more driving.
60% chance on a bad temperature sensor, but you should take the correct diagnosing route to get there.
[quote=”mckrishes” post=180754]the pressure is released if the head of the bolt comes off[/quote]
Very true, though only if you didn’t break the head off due to the thread being stuck (rust). and thread locking compound could be an issue too.Dry bolts that snapped due to over-torque can 99/100 be twisted right out by hand because no more head = no more clamping force = no more friction.
You’re not going to snap it with hand tools, no need to worry about that one.
Nylock is an often-used name for the self-locking nuts with nylon insert. (and also a brand-name, but thats how it goes..)
Any store that sells bolts would have them.
The bolt should have a shoulder to lock the up/down direction, if its fully threaded the thread will get smashed and you’ll have play. (mostly up/down).
The nut should be a nylock, to prevent it from coming loose.
And make sure its tight / torqued to spec, as the bolt/nut also applies clamping force, which is whats stopping the whole thing from having play. When in doubt, just make it a little tighter.
If the new ball joint is somehow the wrong diameter, that could probably cause issues, but its not something I’ve seen so far.
I’d still be looking at suspension play, front ball joints and steering linkages first, possibly in the rear even.
This happens a lot to the rear tires on FWD cars, and is mostly caused by loose/bad suspension components or bad shocks, and a little by suspension geometry on some cars.. Regularly rotating helps in the latter case.
You’ve already fixed the bad bushing and moved the tires to the front. They might wear back into round, depending on how bad the wear on them is. If the noise is bothering you, replace them, but as far as snow goes, I don’t think it’ll affect performance much.
Overall, tire age, thread depth and pattern matter more for snow grip.I don’t feel any particular vibration though the pedals or gearstick that coincides with the sound. I’ll try again tomorrow, but I don’t think so.
No inspection hatch or cover plate or any other sheetmetal I can think of, but I could check that all the bolts around the bell housing and gearbox are still tight.
I’ll also try unplugging the evap valve..
[video]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ydsk3-xmhj8[/video]
Recorded some of it, the microphone actually picks it up over the road noise.Another idea I had was maybe the evap solenoid? I could test it if I could figure out how to unplug it.
and in case its not supposed to be shimmed, the starter might just be bad and not fully retract, causing damage to both the ring gear and the starter.
Whatever the case, I would strongly recommend replacing the starter too, if it ate the ring gear, the starter teeth are damaged too, and it’ll wreck the new ring gear.
The clutch is not disengaging, making it (near) impossible to shift..
I see you already found and fixed the problem with the master cylinder, but perhaps the bleeding of the clutch system was not successful?
I’ve got a 2002 Renault Mégane with an 1.6 16v (twin cam, no VVT) engine, and it’s developed a mystery ticking/clicking noise.
It sounds kind of like a valve tick, but (to my ear) the speed of the ticking seems independent of RPM.
I can only hear it under more or less steady state cruising load, it goes away at Idle/unloaded, decel or hard(er) acceleration.Its difficult or impossible to reproduce the noise at a standstil, do you have any tips for finding/diagnosing the noise?
