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Yes that would be it, has the at, ec, el sections including the error codes and the diagnosing process along with methods to solve but i just had a look and saw this version was published in 2001, I guess they may have changed a few things when they did the series 2.
I’ll change out the atf and hope that does the car some good then do some further trouble shooting with the TCM and combination meter when I can find cheap parts or a person willing to let me borrow bits from their car to help with the process of elimination.
Yes I’ve found the same description online regarding the code, the confusing part is that I’ve got a copy of the full workshop manual, which lists out dozens of codes yet the 1574 isn’t in this vehicles manual for some reason. My auto elec was equally as confused when he entered the vehicle details into his scan tool and it found the code but the scanner itself couldn’t find the code existing in the pulsar or almera database.
As a last ditch for now I’ll change out the atf tomorrow, I was always under the impression it was fairly new and clean but supposedly clear fluid may be a sign of it being old and who knows, might be related to the occasional soft gear shift rather than the firm shifts and might be responsible for it not shifting from 1st to second.I would have thought the refrigerant is low too but from memory it behaved the same way after it had been degassed, I will check the fans when I head out tomorrow, when I looked the issue up some others seemed to say a faulty pressure valve is related to the issue, might end up taking it to get checked if the heat here really starts getting to me and check whether it was topped up enough in the past
I would have thought the refrigerant is low too but from memory it behaved the same way after it had been degassed, I will check the fans when I head out tomorrow, when I looked the issue up some others seemed to say a faulty pressure valve is related to the issue, might end up taking it to get checked if the heat here really starts getting to me and check whether it was topped up enough in the past
got the thermostat changed out last weekend, at first glance it looked fine but on closer inspection the internals were ever so slightly bent or twisted leaving a small gap for water to seep through, new one is in and sitting at the right temp, along with plenty of other issues i’ve been chipping away at and it should be ready for a new owner as soon as someone comes along.
also a little note for eric if you read this, not sure if you’ve done any videos regarding fan speed resistors but mine was acting funny when it went, fan only blew when on full speed but the strange thing was the ac compressor wouldn’t kick in and only did when on the speeds where the resistor was no good.
got the thermostat changed out last weekend, at first glance it looked fine but on closer inspection the internals were ever so slightly bent or twisted leaving a small gap for water to seep through, new one is in and sitting at the right temp, along with plenty of other issues i’ve been chipping away at and it should be ready for a new owner as soon as someone comes along.
also a little note for eric if you read this, not sure if you’ve done any videos regarding fan speed resistors but mine was acting funny when it went, fan only blew when on full speed but the strange thing was the ac compressor wouldn’t kick in and only did when on the speeds where the resistor was no good.
Update:
put fresh oil in this weekend and found the last time it was done it had been overfilled, good 200-400ml poured out the fill plug on pretty level surface and found a small number of metal shards as well as what i’d assume to be normal filings on the drain plug magnet that wouldn’t be of concern, can’t help but wonder what the damage related to the chips and shards are though, ahh the joys of old cars…Update:
put fresh oil in this weekend and found the last time it was done it had been overfilled, good 200-400ml poured out the fill plug on pretty level surface and found a small number of metal shards as well as what i’d assume to be normal filings on the drain plug magnet that wouldn’t be of concern, can’t help but wonder what the damage related to the chips and shards are though, ahh the joys of old cars…hopefully it’s an isolated issue, been trying to sell the ute for ages, i queried the noise when i bought it and the mechanic just told me it’s common in fords/mazda but didn’t really provide any info on the noise, good call on the synchro too if i got into there as a handful of times (less than 5) i’ve known it to slip up and cause an awful crunch trying to get into gear although it goes in just fine 99% of the time. here’s for hoping it’s not my problem for too much longer
hopefully it’s an isolated issue, been trying to sell the ute for ages, i queried the noise when i bought it and the mechanic just told me it’s common in fords/mazda but didn’t really provide any info on the noise, good call on the synchro too if i got into there as a handful of times (less than 5) i’ve known it to slip up and cause an awful crunch trying to get into gear although it goes in just fine 99% of the time. here’s for hoping it’s not my problem for too much longer
hopefully that’s what the issue is, i was worried for a while it was the temp sensor giving me false readings until today, been stressing aver the car as i’m trying to sell it haha, at least i know it hasn’t been overheating without me knowing because part of my paranoia was worried about a head leak until i realised the block itself was black and it wasn’t soaked in oil, cheap fix is always what ya want to hear
hopefully that’s what the issue is, i was worried for a while it was the temp sensor giving me false readings until today, been stressing aver the car as i’m trying to sell it haha, at least i know it hasn’t been overheating without me knowing because part of my paranoia was worried about a head leak until i realised the block itself was black and it wasn’t soaked in oil, cheap fix is always what ya want to hear
thanks for the reply, i’ll look into getting a manufacturer replacement thermostat sometime this week for it, the cooling fan in the vehicle is belt driven so i think it runs constantly, i may be wrong, might double check next time i start from cold, the vehicle is a mazda bravo b2600 4×4 if that provides any further insight
thanks for the reply, i’ll look into getting a manufacturer replacement thermostat sometime this week for it, the cooling fan in the vehicle is belt driven so i think it runs constantly, i may be wrong, might double check next time i start from cold, the vehicle is a mazda bravo b2600 4×4 if that provides any further insight
Yeah all the fluids were topped up and clean, had recently had a service AMD drove nice, the light clutch makes me think it might be possible that its been replaced some point in the past with a different compression plate assembly which causes the light pedal but I’m still stumped as to why it felt the way it did when putting it into gear, might have to look through the service history a second time