[aknight_sa]

the pump is working, as i verified by both hearing it run when i turn the key to the on position.. and by pressing on the pressure relief valve.. but i dont know if its providing the right pressure.. but if its not providing enough pressure i believe the engine should fire up and maybe fail when load is applied..

i do expect that i do have a harness problem which is shorting out the injectors and preventing them from working..

tests will verify it all

[aknight_sa]

[quote=”EricTheCarGuy” post=36726]So refresh my memory please. Is it not getting spark or fuel at this time? I think I remember you saying it had spark since you got shocked but I don’t remember what you said as far as fuel delivery goes.[/quote]

what happened was the cable of the IGN broke so i had to fix it..

here is my latest.. was told to spray Carb Cleaner in the intake by ScannerDanner and see what happens and thats what i did today.. and after spraying some in.. the engine did rev and start shortly which means in my opinion that the ignition is working and probably right timing.. but the problem as it seems is a fuel delivery problem..

[aknight_sa]

[quote=”EricTheCarGuy” post=36726]So refresh my memory please. Is it not getting spark or fuel at this time? I think I remember you saying it had spark since you got shocked but I don’t remember what you said as far as fuel delivery goes.[/quote]

what happened was the cable of the IGN broke so i had to fix it..

here is my latest.. was told to spray Carb Cleaner in the intake by ScannerDanner and see what happens and thats what i did today.. and after spraying some in.. the engine did rev and start shortly which means in my opinion that the ignition is working and probably right timing.. but the problem as it seems is a fuel delivery problem..

[aknight_sa]

[quote=”Jotmon1″ post=36522]I’m guessing that you mean that you made your resistance test with the fuse out or battery cable disconnected. The resistance to ground could be normal. Looking at your circuit, the controller operates the injectors by pulling each wire to ground. Transistors used for this purpose have properties that make them look like diodes and may have feedback circuits that reference ground. Try reversing the meter leads and see if the reading changes. Remember that you are seeing the resistance through all 8 injectors and the controller to ground. If you want to make a true test in this manner you should unplug all but one injector. Then test one at a time, they should be the same.[/quote]

what i did was removed the battery first, and disconnected one of the injectors.. and did the test between the positive lead and the fuse terminal.. from the diagram above, it should be a direct connection without any ground in the way..

as when i checked from the PCM connection to ground there was no continuity at all..

[aknight_sa]

[quote=”Jotmon1″ post=36522]I’m guessing that you mean that you made your resistance test with the fuse out or battery cable disconnected. The resistance to ground could be normal. Looking at your circuit, the controller operates the injectors by pulling each wire to ground. Transistors used for this purpose have properties that make them look like diodes and may have feedback circuits that reference ground. Try reversing the meter leads and see if the reading changes. Remember that you are seeing the resistance through all 8 injectors and the controller to ground. If you want to make a true test in this manner you should unplug all but one injector. Then test one at a time, they should be the same.[/quote]

what i did was removed the battery first, and disconnected one of the injectors.. and did the test between the positive lead and the fuse terminal.. from the diagram above, it should be a direct connection without any ground in the way..

as when i checked from the PCM connection to ground there was no continuity at all..

[aknight_sa]

[quote=”johnzcarz” post=36477]Would you say that it’s only happening when the engine is warm/hot and you are trying to start it?[/quote]

not starting at all

[aknight_sa]

[quote=”johnzcarz” post=36477]Would you say that it’s only happening when the engine is warm/hot and you are trying to start it?[/quote]

not starting at all

[aknight_sa]

tested the ignition again and was working fine… resistance continuity between each electric port and injector fuse is fine.. voltage drop between same ports did show a 0.02v drop… but one thing was strange.. i just did a resistance test between the injector fuse and ground and there was resistance of around 240ohms.. i dont know if that is right or not.. but to me it seems that there could be a short somewhere which will prevent the injector from firing..

[aknight_sa]

tested the ignition again and was working fine… resistance continuity between each electric port and injector fuse is fine.. voltage drop between same ports did show a 0.02v drop… but one thing was strange.. i just did a resistance test between the injector fuse and ground and there was resistance of around 240ohms.. i dont know if that is right or not.. but to me it seems that there could be a short somewhere which will prevent the injector from firing..

[aknight_sa]

ok.. here’s an update..

while checking the signals on the Ignition Coil Module one of the cables got ripped off as it was just hardly connected. i did get the connector fixed at which didnt solve the problem as it was there before the cable was cut loose.

[url=http://alfaris.net/up/86/alfaris_net_1352020184.JPG]

i did also change the Coil itself as the one i had didnt supply a strong enough spark and after changing it.. the spark was jumping out of the distributer to the test light while it was an inch away.

i will be doing a proper fuel test now which includes a fuel pressure test and will be checking the fuel injectors for both voltage and control singals from the PCM as per the below diagram

[url=http://alfaris.net/up/86/alfaris_net_1352020281.jpg]

if i still cannt find the exact problem it will on its way to a mechanic..

[aknight_sa]

ok.. here’s an update..

while checking the signals on the Ignition Coil Module one of the cables got ripped off as it was just hardly connected. i did get the connector fixed at which didnt solve the problem as it was there before the cable was cut loose.

[url=http://alfaris.net/up/86/alfaris_net_1352020184.JPG]

i did also change the Coil itself as the one i had didnt supply a strong enough spark and after changing it.. the spark was jumping out of the distributer to the test light while it was an inch away.

i will be doing a proper fuel test now which includes a fuel pressure test and will be checking the fuel injectors for both voltage and control singals from the PCM as per the below diagram

[url=http://alfaris.net/up/86/alfaris_net_1352020281.jpg]

if i still cannt find the exact problem it will on its way to a mechanic..

[aknight_sa]

an update to the situation..

started checking the wiring of the Optispark, Ignition Coil and Ignition Control Module and found some previously cut and repaired wires.. after fiddling with them the engine started normally, then i turned it off after some time at which it didnt start again.. i then reconnected the ignition tester mentioned above and had the engine cranked and there was no spark..

then what happened was following:..
as i was inspected the cables again, my friend cranked the engine again (without me telling him too) there were a few revs with no spark then a spark happened with my hand on the tester AND I GOT ONE GOOD SHOCK!! 😀 and the engine started again..

anyway, i will be checking the signals of all three components as well as the cam sensor and Crank sensor..

i dont want to go to mechanical inspection tell i totally have the ignition system tested as these models are well known to have issues with the dumb Optispark design.

will keep you updated

[aknight_sa]

an update to the situation..

started checking the wiring of the Optispark, Ignition Coil and Ignition Control Module and found some previously cut and repaired wires.. after fiddling with them the engine started normally, then i turned it off after some time at which it didnt start again.. i then reconnected the ignition tester mentioned above and had the engine cranked and there was no spark..

then what happened was following:..
as i was inspected the cables again, my friend cranked the engine again (without me telling him too) there were a few revs with no spark then a spark happened with my hand on the tester AND I GOT ONE GOOD SHOCK!! 😀 and the engine started again..

anyway, i will be checking the signals of all three components as well as the cam sensor and Crank sensor..

i dont want to go to mechanical inspection tell i totally have the ignition system tested as these models are well known to have issues with the dumb Optispark design.

will keep you updated

[aknight_sa]

this could be the neutral safety switch, this switch doesnt allow the engine to crank if you are not in Park or Neutral, you can test by shifting the gear between N and P several times and see if it cranks.. you can also try cranking it in N

try that for now

[aknight_sa]

this could be the neutral safety switch, this switch doesnt allow the engine to crank if you are not in Park or Neutral, you can test by shifting the gear between N and P several times and see if it cranks.. you can also try cranking it in N

try that for now

[Author]

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