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They are great for 1 time use tools.
If they last longer, then even better, but I don’t trust them to last long.
Using force is common practice in freeing a half shaft.
The diff is designed with enough lateral shaft play, not necessarily for freeing a hub, but to allow the suspension components to move.
The half shaft moves in and out of the diff a little bit as the suspension moves.The only exception that I can recall, are non independent suspension vehicles.
IIRC on those, the hub and the shaft are 1 piece. So to remove it, you open the diff and remove the retaining C clip, then slide out the hub/shaft.Should have removed the shoes and the debris from it, and then test drove it.
Could have been where the bearing noise was actually coming from.
I believe they need to make “parts” light to counter the additional weight of a heavier chassis and the additions to meet safty regulations, which is probably what you experienced with your odysseies.
There have been rare cases where the newer chassis were lighter or even the same weight as the previous gen chassis… to a point.
there is a tipping point where the car is just too heavy, that they engineer the car to be lighter in a newer chassis.the nissan/datsun Z cars for example.
the 240z, 260z, 280z were basically the same car with different engines.
But with larger bumpers, heavier doors, more sheet metal, it got a lot heavier
between the 240z and the 280z, their is about a 600 pound difference.
and even more so when comparing the 280zx and 300zxMIata and Mustang is an example of the tipping point. they made the cars lighter than the previous versions, on the newest generation.
My story…
So, at the time, I was going to graduate from college, and have been looking for a “new” car for a year.
I had been driving a 92 jeep cherokee sport, that my family bought new.Side story on the jeep; parents bought it new, my sister drove it for a bit, then I started driving it in 99.
Some minor dents (mostly from when my mom was driving it, but those stories are for another time)
Some bare metal scratches from when I bald eagle was rummaging through some trash and then deciding to perch on my hood (I live in AK)
Had a slue of problems a few years prior, that my dad tried to fix (was a journeyman mechanic at the time, now retired), replaced a bunch of things and dumped about $2k just into parts, which I had previously looked on other forums and concluded that it was the CAS, and told him, and was the last thing that was replaced.
Ran great after that. Even threw it on my friend’s dyno just to see how much power it lost over the years.
A Whopping 85 hp haha.Anyways, my initial choice was a 08 subaru legacy 3.0R. They wanted $20k for it and I was eager to get it, but I had to walk away because they wouldn’t give me the warranty on the car, even though I would have been the first owner. (My assumption was that the dealer signed over the car to the lot, because the car was already there for 2 years. It was 2009 at the time).
A week later, my aunts were in town from the East coast, and we decided to go the hyundai dealership. They had a 2010 genesis coupe in lime green (which I didn’t like at first) with the premium package, with a MSRP of something like $27k.
Trade-in value for my jeep was like $500 lol. But with cash-for-clunkers, that would be another $3,500, and with my dad’s military discount, another $500
Great, we were ready to sign. We were waiting….. and waiting….. and waiting…. 3 freakin hours goes by.
By then we were all fuming by then. We should have left earlier, but my asian stubbornness kept me there, just so I can go off at someone and see how things play out.
Finally someone comes with our paperwork, as we are about to walk out the door.
So, I and my dad calmly back down.
He sits down and asks us to sign.
My dad is about to sign and I stop him.
I tells the dealer “We were ready to sign 3 freakin hours ago, now I’m not so sure. What paperwork takes 3 hours to get? You realize I’ve been looking for a new car for a year now, and I know what my options are. What’s stopping from just going down to the subaru dealership 2 blocks over, and just getting a legacy R for $20k and driving off the lot in 20 minutes, especially after making us was wait 3 hours. My Aunts flew in from the East coast 3 days ago and YOU already wasted their time sitting here doing nothing. I want to speak to your manager”
Now the lot manager’s office is near by and heard everything (lot manager is higher than sales manager), and he comes out and asks my dad and I into his office.
I ask him, “You heard everything, the car is lime green and is going to take a while for you to sell. What are you going to do for me?”
He said, let me work the numbers.
15~20 mins later, he comes out and shows us the new paperwork, and came out to be $19,500, with clear bra and lifetime oil change (which I’ve only done twice at the dealer, and never again. An hour oil change, and not offering a shuttle service. which I know they have).
Signed and picked it 2 days later (they needed to hold onto the car to install the clear bra).
The color grew on me and is now the rarest color that they made for the model. They only offered the green for 1 year :pTo add, which was touch on, is skin exposure to oils.
I know a guy that is now one of the mechanics that can’t do much, but he has an abundance of knowledge, so they keep him around.
He developed an allergy to motor oils.
His fingers are now sausage fingers because of it.
Another that wasn’t talked about (more in the race industry) is exposure to methanol.
It’s flammable, but first and foremost, it’s labeled as a neurotoxin. It leaches into your skin and causes a lot of neurological issues.Then there is heavy metal poisoning (more in welding).
About the cat and engine. Just wanted to point this out, not directed at the build.
Regs say that the cat has to “match” the engine.
Meaning, if you put in an engine that still requires emissions testing (25 years or newer), in an older car, the emissions requirements go by the engine year.
another thing is that regs also say that you aren’t allowed to put in an engine that is older that the car that it’s going into.
Have you used the kind of tool where you bolt down the tool on the opposite side of the head, and then you use the leverage to compress the spring?
It has something like the compressor part on the first tool you showed, but its located on somewhere in the middle of a long bar, and on the far end is where you bolt it into the head.I’ve used it, but I’m a bit leery about putting that much lateral force on aluminum parts. So I mounted mine on my bench.
Have you used the kind of tool where you bolt down the tool on the opposite side of the head, and then you use the leverage to compress the spring?
It has something like the compressor part on the first tool you showed, but its located on somewhere in the middle of a long bar, and on the far end is where you bolt it into the head.I’ve used it, but I’m a bit leery about putting that much lateral force on aluminum parts. So I mounted mine on my bench.
Hope you weren’t referring to me in the video about the fed reg on HIDs and calling the feds lol.
My last 3 posts on the subject.
I try to present info in an objective way, but people usually put there own subjective interpretation on it.
Hope you weren’t referring to me in the video about the fed reg on HIDs and calling the feds lol.
My last 3 posts on the subject.
I try to present info in an objective way, but people usually put there own subjective interpretation on it.
IIRC all OEM HID (xenon) bulbs are 4200k, which I believe you can’t get unless you get OEM replacement xenon bulbs.