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My impact is an 18v porter cable. It’s not powerful enough to break lugs free. I don’t have an air compressor or access to air tools. Maybe it’s time to invest in a better impact. The only torch I have is propane. Will that be hot enough?
My impact is an 18v porter cable. It’s not powerful enough to break lugs free. I don’t have an air compressor or access to air tools. Maybe it’s time to invest in a better impact. The only torch I have is propane. Will that be hot enough?
Is this a fairly simple job? I’ve never really done any suspension work. Would any special tools be required?
Is this a fairly simple job? I’ve never really done any suspension work. Would any special tools be required?
It’s a brand new water pump, less than 2 months old. It did need replaced as it was leaking and making a grinding noise. No longer leaking and it’s now quiet, but it’s still overheating.
Here’s the layout of the coolant system. The only part that has a cap is piece 2.
In one of Erics videos he mentioned he didn’t care for the flush kits where you install an adapter for your water hose. I don’t have an air compressor. What else would you recommend doing?
no pressure test, no gurgling
I only have one cap on the coolant system and that is on the recovery tank. The overflow is part of the recovery tank, and the radiator itself has no cap. See the link I posted earlier from dorman showing the recovery tank.
One thing I noticed last night is that the fans don’t come on when idling, the car doesn’t seem to overheat when just idling either. When I noticed last night I was getting no fans at idle I checked both fuses, there’s one for high speed and one for low, and both were good, I couldn’t find a relay.
Is it possible that the temp sensor is bad?
I haven’t noticed any water in the oil or vice versa. I haven’t done a pressure test because I don’t have the equipment and have been working 60+ hours a week and not enough time to go rent one from autozone. There hasn’t been any fluid loss that I’ve noticed though.
I’ll test the rad hoses tonight once she’s had time to cool.
There’s no way to feel the rad with it in the car, I could get a laser thermometer and test it I suppose.
It didn’t overheat at all going to work today, but it did on the way home, and revving now cools it down again, It appears I’m drawing air back into the system somehow, but not losing any fluid… the rad cap is brand new, it came with the recovery tank, and it appears to be fine.
Considering I’m not noticing any fluid loss I assume it’s somewhere high in the system and air is getting drawn in before it builds up pressure and now it’s not able to build up pressure because of that leak… I’m not sure if that’s a viable possibility or not.
I just thought of a solution, always drive at 3k+ RPM. haha
I’m seriously considering just selling it and letting someone else deal with it, or letting a professional take a look at it.
I didn’t get to check the rad hoses yet, I’m just too tired and frustrated to go out and fool with it. I’ll post back when I have some more news…
Thanks again for everyone’s help.
sorry it took so long to re-post, I”ve been working like crazy. So I bled the system using a spill free funnel, identical to the one in the video, after getting to temp the funnel starts filling up and eventually flows over. So I tried it again, with maybe an inch or so of fluid sitting in the bottom of the funnel. Started the car (already about to temp) after sitting a few minutes it again starts to fill up and overflows. I took the funnel off, after turning the car off the recovery tank was low so I topped it off and drove it, It started overheating, and now revving the motor to 3-3.5k RPM doesn’t cool it down.
I’m at a major loss here :/
Also, the recovery tank on my car has 2 chambers, one that’s pressurized with a 16lb radiator cap and the overflow is part of the same tank, it’s separated. Not sure if that makes a difference.
Also, should the tank be at normal level or should the funnel have a little in it when I start?
I can’t add directly to the overflow tank, it’s completely sealed other than the vent and the hose that comes from the fill neck and goes to the bottom. The rad is also sealed.
Because of this, If there’s some in the funnel the recovery tank will be full (except for the overflow section)
http://www.dormanproducts.com/p-11909-603-307.aspx is the tank. The hose coming from the fill neck is hooked to the nipple on the triange at the bottom (at least that’s how the old one came off. You can see the separation of the tanks there too.
I just put the funnel on with no additional fluid (it was already at the correct mark) and after awhile it started to fill the funnel and began to overflow again. I shut the motor off and it sucked all the fluid back down in. I started it, ran it for awhile, let the funnel fill about halfway up, shut it off.. it kept filling for a few seconds then drained back down. I did this 3-4 times, not letting the funnel overflow, drove it and it did fine for a few miles. I turned the car off and parked a minute, then left to go back home and it overheated on the way home. W-|
yeah, it overheats driving. Previously, before I bled the air, revving the motor for a second to 3-3.5k RPM would cause it to cool down. I guess that was a lack of flow due to air in the system that has been resolved, but it’s still overheating and I can’t find any reason why.
I guess I’m going to try to flush the system and see what that does for me.
My favorite tools are my impact wrench and a small pair of Kobalt Channel Locks. Those paired with my socket set and a few screw drivers you can do about anything.
I’ve considered buying one of these http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000AXA53/
Spring hose clamps are great when you can easily access them, but when you can’t… well, I’ll just say I can see where that tool would be handy.
Yeah, I’ve bled the system, that’s a good idea about bypassing the heater core, I never thought of that.
I’m going to install a flush kit soon and If that doesn’t work I may give that a shot.
The heater core isn’t leaking that I can tell, it’s not losing any fluid and there’s no steam on the windows or water on the floorboards.