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I don’t understand why people don’t buy their manufacturer’s service manual. It has torque specs and the correct wiring diagrams and this is just basic to take care of your car.
EBay is your friend
I went to the dealership to see how a new bearing fit in it. It was obvious like everyone here said that I still had something left of the old bearing left in the steering knuckle. Obviously it was the old outer race. I put my Harbor Freight bearing adapter up to it using the 955-011 spacer and pressed it out. Unfortunately I lost the plastic lock that keeps the new bearing together. Exchanging that bearing for a new one tomorrow to finish the job.
Thanks to everyone for their help!
Update for the day. I checked my wheel hub. I don’t see anything i can pull or press out of it. I tried putting my bearing press adapter to the ring that’s stopping my bearing from going in. It won’t budge. Actually I think that ring is the outer border that holds the c-clip.
I removed the axle on the other side to see how it all fits in. Seems I have a larger bearing than what is on the driver’s side. I’m going to take a look at a new hub and bearing at the dealer. If they seem the same size as the bearing I bought, I’ll take the steering knuckle to a shop and have them remove what’s in there even though I don’t see anything to remove.
Problem with that is that I broke the pinch bolt that holds the ball-joint in place. Broke a drill bit trying to drill a hole down the middle of the broken bolt.
I already undid the castle nut that fastens the ball joint to the control arm. Won’t budge even with a separator fork.I hope you at least have a 3rd party DIY manual for your car. Ideally you should also have the Factory Service Manual as well. Once you’ve reviewed the relevant sections, move on to youtube videos for the same engine.
I’ve heard that rotating an engine in reverse can cause issues with the oil pump sucking in a seal or something like that. I’m not a pro or certified, but that’s what I heard. If you do crank in reverse do it slowly under control. That should prevent messing with the oil pump.
As I sat here attempting research, somehow out of nowhere a question popped into my mind. “Did you put the car in gear?” ?!?! Ran outside to check – yes I did. Relieved the tension on the breaker bar I locked under the AC compressor then took the car out of gear. Engine turns over like butter LOL
Now I can turn to the issue that brought me back to the timing belt in the first place
-Why do I have increased engine vibration?
-Why is there some kind of knock/sound/brief vibration on startup?
-Why does idling periodically get rough?All that comes to mind is that my cylinder heads are out of sync. Maybe I should remove the timing belt, rotate either camshaft around once from having it’s timing mark straight up where it is now, back to top again, and reinstall the timing belt. Any input would be appreciated. Thanks again
Do you have tools? Do you work on your own cars? How technical have you gotten? Try studying for ASE Certification, especially Electrics and Engine Diagnostics. Not sure exactly which tests they are but getting certified ASAP would improve your chances of getting a job. Besides dealerships you can also try talking to non-dealer garages or even assist independent shade-tree mechanics. I’ve read a bit on the state of the automechanics industry and getting into it. There’s definitely a shortage of automechanics going on. Question is, who’s going to pay you enough and give you enough benefits to stick with it? Don’t want to sound pessimistic but make sure you look into that. Some people are happy with their career as an automechanic. Some of it will be you – how well you understand cars, and deal with employers and customer bs, and some will be the employer – how well they treat you. Good luck!