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It’s also worth mentioning that if it is a seat belt buckle code, Honda/Acura vehicles have a lifetime unlimited miles warranty on seat belt components on cars manufactured before 2011. You may get it fixed for free depending on the code. Those are notorious for bad buckle switches.
If it’s occupant position detection system related (SRS DTC 15-1, 15-2 or 15-3), then you’ll have to spend serious dough to fix. 🙁
Actually, on that particular Acura, dropping the subframe isn’t needed to remove the rack. Even if he had the proper tool that you recommended, it would still be very difficult to properly remove and reinstall the lock washers that have to be flattened on the ends with a hammer to lock the inner tie rods to the rack. So you would still have the clearance issue there doing that in the car, but that’s beside the point.
Usually the only reason to remove inner tie rods is to swap them over to a new gearbox. They RARELY fail. I assumed it was on the bench already and he was simply swapping it over to the new rack. That is why I made the suggestion I did. He didn’t specify if it was being done in car or not. So in that instance, it would work “worth a damn”. 🙂
You usually don’t replace inner tie rods with the rack installed…. At least in my experience. Works fine for me, been working on these cars for 10 years….
I know this sounds shoddy… but that’s what harbor freight is for. Go buy a decent size crescent wrench and grind it on a bench grinder to narrow it enough to fit. That’s what I do at the Acura dealer I work it. Make sure you get new lock washers between the gearbox and inner tie rods, otherwise you’ll have to hammer the old ones flat and reuse them, which I would not recommend doing.
Any “reputable” shop will refuse to take your money for the issue you’re having as that amount of oil consumption is negligible. The truth is, every responsible car owner needs to be checking and maintaining their engine’s oil level regularly. I work at an Acura dealership, and that particular fact really irks my customers when they feel entitled to never open the hood just because they spend 40+ thousand dollars. And when my customers come in telling me it shouldn’t burn any oil at all, that’s simply not true. If no oil at all got past the rings, how would they get lubricated and maintain their seal against the piston wall?
The CRV and the TSX share a similar engine. They do have an issue with the oil control rings sticking in the piston and not preventing excessive amounts of oil from getting into the combustion chamber, but that is pretty rare. I’ve only re-ringed pistons in a TSX a few times in the years that service bulletin came out. Further, the factory tells us to tell our customers that unless the engine is burning 1 quart or more every 1000 miles, there is no problem and any repairs performed will not be covered under the warranty extension. I don’t say this to alarm you, but to tell you that unless you’re consuming 1 quarts per 1000 miles (which is a lot), don’t worry. And your rate of consumption doesn’t even touch that.
All engines burn oil. The amount your engine is burning isn’t even something I think needs addressing. At the rate of consumption you’re describing, it sounds like you likely wouldn’t even be below the lower mark on your dipstick after 3000 miles of not adding any oil. Performing any diagnosis at this point sounds like an exercise in futility. Hope that helps settle your worries.
Probably not worth it financially, but if as jjohnson1 said, nobody can decide that but you.
A few thoughts, if you replaced “everything” then I would agree you should take it back to where you had the repairs done in case improper work was done. Mistakes happen. However, a leaking heater core is separate from your a/c system. The leak is probably unrelated to their repairs if it wasn’t replaced by them. You also said you don’t have heat OR air? Does that mean you don’t have airflow coming out of your vents? Those are known for blower motor problems FYI.
I second that your 2nd gear synchros could be worn out. Is the clutch original? You said it was in your family for a while? Could somebody have done a lot of “spirited driving” in the past? Does it ever pop out of gear in second gear?
If it were my car, I would split the case when you do the clutch and assess the damage. My guess is the synchro is worn out, and it may not be bad idea to replace the 1-2 shift hub while you’re in there. Inspect the dog teeth (what the 1-2 shift sleeve splines to) on second gear. You might as well as the input shaft bearing since that’s a common failure on 5 speed honda gearboxes. I’ve done many on Acura Integras over the years.
I do know how to story the ticket. I used that skill on a regular basis before they took away straight time diagnosis 6 months ago. There is no labor operation number for Honda and Acura (they both use the same system) for testing components. And you if you call tech line, straight time is usually how you get paid in those instances, but you can usually only call tech line if it’s a repeat repair, and they have to give you justification for calling them. You can’t call them for everything. Warranty kicks claims if tech line doesn’t mark the call justifiable.
I can’t stand my ground if there is not an operation number for any kind of test. And if I throw parts at it, my boss isn’t happy. In the difficult scenarios, he usually pays me out of the service department’s budget, so that’s nice. My issue is that the factory should pay me to diagnose if they want accurate repairs, not the dealership.
I have started shotgunning with electrical diagnosis sometimes just so I can get a justifiable tech line call and get paid my diag time, but my boss hates it. It is what it is.
Toyota wasn’t like this. From what you’re telling me, Nissan isn’t either. Maybe it’s time to switch… It’s tough though since I’m a master Acura tech… Ugh, I’d have to start all over.
I’m thinking the dealers all have to unite against the manufacturer for all the unfair labor practices. I wonder why there is no oversight of labor time determination. I’m sure I’m not alone when I think manufacturers should be required by law to pay labor guide times as well as diagnosis. I would LOVE to see the people who determine these times to do the job in their allotted time.
I can only assume that it was the fluid change that improved the shift quality. I’ve never seen a shift cable being out of adjustment cause that issue. Glad you got it ironed out.
Well I wish you luck on how long the transmission lasts. I have seen some of the 4 speeds limp a long with harsh shifting for quite a while too. I hope it does last a while for you. :/
If you got the time and motivation, you can’t really hurt anything by removing the solenoids and checking them, but again, it likely won’t help. Be mindful of disturbing the gaskets and o-rings on such and old vehicle too if you’re not replacing them.
Ah, we’re talking about 2 different cables. I thought you were talking about the shift cable, not the throttle cable. I don’t think it will fix your transmission shifting concern, but if you do want to adjust it, here’s what you do:
There is no adjustment on the accelerator pedal on the inside of the car, it’s all done under the hood. When you look at the throttle body, you’ll see two cable attachment points. The metal one is for the accelerator pedal, the black plastic one is for the cruise control cable. Make sure those are not mixed up. The black plastic cable mount should go the cable that goes along the air cleaner housing, over the radiator and into the cruise control actuator above the right side engine mount. The metal mount should have the cable that goes through the firewall(leads to accelerator pedal) on it.
There is mixed opinions on how much slack you want in a cable. Me personally, I like it to where you can move the cable by hand about 1/8″ before the cable is taught. You don’t want the throttle being pulled open slightly all the time.
Here’s a good guide. It’s a little different that your throttle body, but the adjustment mechanism is the same:
Ah. The 4 speeds are better, but definitely not flawless, they have issues. It’s still a common failure. There was even a safety recall on it. Your description of the way your transmission behaves is textbook transmission deterioration. You’re likely going to have to replace it with a remanufactured unit or take it to a transmission shop for a rebuild.
If you didn’t put Honda transmission fluid in there (Z1 or DW-1), you’re doing yourself a disservice. You can attempt to remove solenoids and clean them but it likely will not have an effect.
As for your code, catalyst system insufficient codes are usually catalyst failures, not o2 sensors. 🙁 That’s not related to your shifting concern though.
When you drive and you feel like the engine revs but the car doesn’t go, that’s usually due to clutch slippage. That “sledge hammer” sensation is the transmission banging into gear.
As for the adjustments to the shift cable, the only adjustment is the one where the cable connects to the shifter in the car. There is a slot in the cable end where the shift lever stud goes into that is fastened with at 14mm nut. You can loosen that nut and move the shifter to a different position and then tighten the nut. I wouldn’t recommend that though, I doubt that’s loose or out of adjustment. On the transmission side, it connects with a pivot pin and there is a hinge mechanism that bolts to the shift shaft. It only goes on one way, there is no adjustment on that end.
The 5 speed transmissions are junk for that model. One of the worst periods for Honda and Acura transmissions was the late 90s and early 2000s. I’ve lost count of how many transmissions I’ve replaced on TLs about that age. Any DTCs? p0730 and p0741 are almost certain death for your transmission. Was the fluid very dark when you drained it? Did the fluid smell burnt?
Throttle position is definitely a factor when it comes to transmission shift points. If the PCM sees a bad input from a throttle position sensor (ex: wide open throttle when it’s not wide open), it can cause all kinds of shifting issues. But, if you have no codes, you likely have no reason to suspect a bad throttle input.
Do you have a code for range switch? Does the shifter feel like it has a problem shifting? What makes you think it’s a cable problem?
Sorry to be the bearer of bad news, but it does sound like an internal transmission failure. I’ve been working at an Acura dealer for 10 years and this is all to common for that particular car unfortunately.