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When you turn the key on without starting the vehicle, do you see the CEL turn on? Also, are you able to pull any codes from the computer via the OBDII port? How about the fuses?
I’ve heard that silicone spray works good for the CV axles, but I’ve never tried it myself. This is what Scotty Kilmer recommends for “squeaky” rubber bushings: http://www.amazon.com/Liquid-Wrench-L616-Lithium-Grease/dp/B00200EFJA
[quote=”Evil-i” post=143295]As with all GM engines, they sound best after they’re shut off. :whistle:[/quote]
Is that so? My neighbors certainly agree with you in this case. :blush:
Do you only have a code for the vehicle running rich on both banks? I’ve seen symptoms like this when a vehicle enters limp mode, but I’ve only heard of vehicles entering limp mode there are problems with shift solenoids in the transmission.
I had a problem very similar to what you mentioned on a 98 ford expedition. It would start and idle very poorly, but once under load it would fall on its face. The power delivery was very sporadic. At first I thought it was the fuel pump or a spark issue, but after some further checking, it turned out that the computer was just limiting the motor’s torque output. (that’s at least what the service manual said) I’m not sure if both that vehicle and the one you mentioned in this post work on the same principle, but I would check to make sure all your fuses are good.
Well, looks like the new seal is holding and there aren’t any leaks.
I did end up running it with open headers (which you’ll see in the video) and the neighbors were none to happy about it. Before the video I didn’t realize that the engine fan was rubbing against the radiator fan housing, so I removed that before recording. It ran super rich (or lean I don’t know it just smelled :silly: ), but it was fine for the simple leak test. Hopefully I can get the trans in tomorrow, but I’m waiting for a new slave cylinder from rock auto.
Anyways, hope you enjoy the video. I was the one recording. I hope you enjoy my excellent narration 😉
[video width=425 height=344 type=youtube]hYUZrZ3v8XA[/video]I read somewhere that a clogged catalytic converter is also be a possibility for the symptoms you described. Check around for vacuum leaks, too.
[video width=425 height=344 type=youtube]9CPqbaSgcok[/video]
The engine isn’t misfiring, right? I had a friend who’s vehicle vibrated while under load and at lower RPM’s because it was only running on 7 cylinders.
Here is a quote from this website: http://www.aa1car.com/library/abs_honda.htm
[quote=aa1car]If you find a code for a ABS solenoid valve, the resistance between the solenoid terminals can be checked with an ohmmeter. As a rule, you should see about one to three ohms if the solenoid is good. A zero reading would tell you the solenoid is shorted, while an infinite reading would tell you it is open. If a solenoid is bad, the entire ABS modulator unit has to be replaced (list price $927) because the individual solenoids are not available as separate components.[/quote]
This information could be incorrect, but it is what my quick search wielded .
If you are planning on replacing the CV joint soon, I say just leave it as is and keep driving it. Dirt and/or water probably already got in there, anyways. I don’t know of any methods of repairing a torn boot to extend the life of an axle. 😛
[quote=”popoften” post=143110]https://www.youtube.com/edit?o=U&video_id=ZtQ-KLkzPpU[/quote]
That link was set to edit the video, here is the video he was trying to post:
[video width=425 height=344 type=youtube]ZtQ-KLkzPpU[/video]
To be honest, I’m not quite sure how to test those injectors. I have rebuilt those TBI’s before, but only because the pressure regulator wasn’t working. That vehicle should at least have OBDI, do you have a check engine light while the vehicle is running?
Sorry to keep throwing videos at you, but you should check this video out, too:
[video width=425 height=344 type=youtube]KF1gijj03_0[/video]
This website (that’s all about chevy impalas) should be a good place to start! 😛 http://www.impalas.net/
It looked like they had a performance section in their forums, so I would look around there.
Alright, so I finally got to taking off the flywheel. Here are pictures of what I found (this is after I replaced the rear main seal):
You can see that silcone stuff I was talking about. There was no oil on or around that area, so I’m just going to leave it alone. The rear main seal was a pain to get out, but after lot of attempts it came out. I’m hoping I put it in square, so that way it doesn’t leak worse than before! 😆 I’m going to put the flywheel on and run the vehicle to make sure it’s not leaking anymore. If everything checks out, I’ll begin to reassble! :cheer:
I hope the neighbors won’t mind me running the truck with open headers for a little while B)
