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If you happen to come across a VW Passat, FSI engine, ie year 2006 – 2010, or ANY VW with an ‘interference’ engine (I think that’s what its called) that needs the intake manifold taken off to see the valves that would be awesome!
There are other videos out there of amateurs and legit repair shops doing this, but non with the film quality and approach-ability that I have come to love in your videos.
If it helps I have a 06 Passat 2.0T that needs the service done and may be able to work with transporting the vehicle for use in a video.
Ok, so the mechanic says it’s engine sludge, on a scale of 1-10 he says it’s near a 5. Their recommending a oil sludge treatment and a new oil pickup tube. I will pay for them to clean the oil pan, since I can’t do that @ my APT complex.
My question is this:
Does anyone have any experience with cleaners like Auto-RX, Marvel Mystery Oil and Motor Medic for cleaning sludge? The mechanic was confident that it’s not ‘past that point’ and would respond to cleaners, flushes, and additional oil changes.
Also since the B6 Passat has a poor EGR and PCV design, would that contribute to sludge build up? Since I’ve owned the car I’ve used MANN filters, Liquimoly SuperTech 4200 oil, and Motor Medic prior to the oil change. It has been done on a 5k schedule since I’ve owned the car. The first few oil changes were done @ Express Lube using MANN filter and Royal Purple full synthetic oil.
This is where I’m needing advice, everything else I had issues with is covered, but the warranty company is claiming neglect on the sludge and denied the repair. I’m arguing back that since I’ve owned the car it’s been maintained better than VW service recommends. I’ve never had any mechanic or shop even say the word sludge. So, there must be a reason for the sudden build up or release (break up) that’s causing these issues. Any help or insight would be great!!!
What I am thinking ATM is doing an aggressive motor flush w/ Seafoam and Motor Medic, conventional oil (cheap, but quality oil), FRAM oil filter. Then after 2 flushes, doing a heavy sludge treatment with Auto-RX, using Rotella T oil and FRAM filters.
[Auto-RX treatment]
2 bottles added after completing the flushes, adding oil and driving 300 miles.
Drive 1500 miles or so and change oil filter (FRAM Filter)
@ 3000 Miles do a full Oil + Filter service, Add 1 bottle Auto RX Treatment and use my usual Liquimoly Tech 4200 + MANN FIlter.
Drive till next scheduled oil change (5000 miles) and start a Motor Medic flush prior to oil change, then maint with 4 OZ of Auto-RX for the next 10K miles of oil changes.I’m thinking after cleaning the pan and replacing the pickup tube an initially aggressive approach will breakup and circulate (filter) some of the layers of sludge. Then once the larger portion of sludge has been broken up and drained, a ‘drivable’ sludge treatment (long term) process will remove the residual sludge, prevent new buildup, and eventually restore the engine to a cleaner, better state. All of this w/o having to have done or figure a way to DIY manually clean the buildup in the engine.
I’d recommend watching Eric’s video on diagnosing a Catalytic converter problem.
P0420 How To Diagnose A Bad Catalytic Converter -EricTheCarGuy
Another option, I would not recommend it if you do have a failing CAT, is an O2 Sensor Spacer. You remove the O2 Sensor post CAT and insert the spacer, then replace the O2 Sensor. It can clear your CAT code, but if the CAT is failing it’s not good to do. My Passat has a after-market Hi-Flo 100 Cell CAT and I had to install one cause the CAT doesn’t perform the way the car thinks it should.
For price quotes I found these:
Thank you everyone for so many replies with such good information. I’d like to respond to the questions asked.
It’s a 2.0T Turbo engine BPY engine code, I use Liquimoly Top Tech 4200 VW certified oil, @ the maintenance handbook weight.
I do not have an oil pressure gauge in the car.
The car does use oil, but that is common for a B6 2.0T FSI engine, I check the oil level @ every fill up and top off when needed.
The car is a tiny tiny fraction lower than 100% full on oil, like 97% full ATM.
I did the rod knock screwdriver test and did not hear any knock, but still don’t rule it out as it may have issues down there, but the top engine noise may drown out any indication while the primary issue is going on while running the engine.I have noticed the noise does lessen once the car reaches idle. However the ‘intensity’ stays the same, it just slows down and is drowned out a little from the accessory belt and timing belt noise I have.
Thankfully I do have an extended warranty and all of your input and what I have been able to verify myself (tore down to the valves Sunday and today), I’m confident the issue and any contributing issues will be well covered since the warranty actually includes whole engine, accessory part, and even a full timing belt service (including water pump).
I am curious to see if the issue comes from the oil pump, I hadn’t given that much focus, but would make a lot of sense as a cause of the major breakdown. I was focused on valve deposits building up so much they make contact, the fuel supply, then the noise started and everything changed.
I’m having the car towed to a top notch euro indie repair shop, hoping they tell me what I want to hear (the truth) and do a complete job or I’ll have to take it down the road to the stealership, (atleast they have outstanding reviews),
I’m hoping while it’s @ the shop someone can find the cause of my hard shift issue shifting up from 1-2 gear. The last shop (a VW dealership) that actually gave a diagnosis said it needed a whole new tranny + VB. (AND YES, my warranty would cover the whole repair).
If everything goes my way, I could be looking at a nearly new car, upper/lower engine parts, timing, crank, drivetrain, AND tranny. If that’s the case I’ll be dancing for EVER!
I just finished driving the car on a 75 mile ‘test drive’, combination city and highway. The sweet smell is gone, now the exhaust smells rich, very rich. Dropped by a friends house to get a second nose’s opinion. He agreed it’s not a sweet smell, it smells rich, ‘very rich’.
Good news is that my MPG went up quite a bit, used to get 16/17 in stop and go and now avg’d 21.9 banana: stop and go, and I was driving it pretty hard to draw out any symptoms or a CEL.
Does disconnecting the neg terminal on your battery effect the ECM? I’d imagine if it does it will correct the air/fuel mixture w/i a 100 miles or so. It is possible I ‘contaminated’ the MAF when changing the air filter. I will have to pull the connector and see if there is a difference in performance tomorrow when the sun comes up.
I just finished driving the car on a 75 mile ‘test drive’, combination city and highway. The sweet smell is gone, now the exhaust smells rich, very rich. Dropped by a friends house to get a second nose’s opinion. He agreed it’s not a sweet smell, it smells rich, ‘very rich’.
Good news is that my MPG went up quite a bit, used to get 16/17 in stop and go and now avg’d 21.9 banana: stop and go, and I was driving it pretty hard to draw out any symptoms or a CEL.
Does disconnecting the neg terminal on your battery effect the ECM? I’d imagine if it does it will correct the air/fuel mixture w/i a 100 miles or so. It is possible I ‘contaminated’ the MAF when changing the air filter. I will have to pull the connector and see if there is a difference in performance tomorrow when the sun comes up.
Is it possible this type of issue could be caused by over tightening the spark plugs? I’m trying to think of what could have happened since there were no issues before the maint.
Any chance it’s ethanol or water (condensation) being burnt?