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I wouldn’t say the 2nd gen neons have a bad reputation if people do proper maintenance. About the only failures I know on them is their radiators which have the transmission cooler at the bottom or the normal things like timing belts (yay interference engines!)
Here’s a video I used to change out the shoes and hardware on my rear drums on my 04. Once you’ve got it all apart it’s not much more work to replace the cylinder and bleed the brakes.
[video]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UvKD6Jcfqm8[/video]
Welp the sister-in-law hit a bump and the traction control and ABS lights went back off tonight. I hate sporadic issues. It also turns out it turned on after fixing the ground when she hit a bump too. I’m hopeful I may be looking at a wire/electrical contact issue for the harness that connects to the EBCM with this new bit of information.
Welp the sister-in-law hit a bump and the traction control and ABS lights went back off tonight. I hate sporadic issues. It also turns out it turned on after fixing the ground when she hit a bump too. I’m hopeful I may be looking at a wire/electrical contact issue for the harness that connects to the EBCM with this new bit of information.
Thanks Eric. I only have a basic ODB2 scanner capable of reading global codes. The local auto parts place has one capable of reading ABS codes so it might need to make a trip to them or the dealer.
Was my description of what I think the EBCM is accurate?
If the EBCM needs to be programmed with a scanner or learned would the car still function? I assume it would and just ABS wouldn’t (but hey it doesn’t work currently anyhow) and if push came to shove I suppose I could pull the ABS fuse. It’s not like some of the BCMs or ECUs which sometimes cause all sorts of idle and drivability issues when replaced and not programmed/learned. Right?If what I think is the EBCM is accurate I’ll be pulling a replacement from an impala/monte carlo of similar vintage from a local junk yard after I check the power and ground. Who knows maybe I’ll get lucky and it’ll just be a bad ground lol
Thanks Eric. I only have a basic ODB2 scanner capable of reading global codes. The local auto parts place has one capable of reading ABS codes so it might need to make a trip to them or the dealer.
Was my description of what I think the EBCM is accurate?
If the EBCM needs to be programmed with a scanner or learned would the car still function? I assume it would and just ABS wouldn’t (but hey it doesn’t work currently anyhow) and if push came to shove I suppose I could pull the ABS fuse. It’s not like some of the BCMs or ECUs which sometimes cause all sorts of idle and drivability issues when replaced and not programmed/learned. Right?If what I think is the EBCM is accurate I’ll be pulling a replacement from an impala/monte carlo of similar vintage from a local junk yard after I check the power and ground. Who knows maybe I’ll get lucky and it’ll just be a bad ground lol
Ok that ground it talks about should be the one I already inspected. I guess the next step will be to break out the DMM and check the ground and battery voltage wires in the multi-pin connector.
The EBCM is the part that attaches the the ABS pump (the thing with brake lines coming off of it), usually held in with 4-6 20 torx screws and has the multi-pin connector on it right?
If I was to get one of those from a junk yard for the replacement would I need to follow a relearn procedure for it to work properly or would it just bolt on and be good to go (assuming the junk yard part isn’t faulty).
Ok that ground it talks about should be the one I already inspected. I guess the next step will be to break out the DMM and check the ground and battery voltage wires in the multi-pin connector.
The EBCM is the part that attaches the the ABS pump (the thing with brake lines coming off of it), usually held in with 4-6 20 torx screws and has the multi-pin connector on it right?
If I was to get one of those from a junk yard for the replacement would I need to follow a relearn procedure for it to work properly or would it just bolt on and be good to go (assuming the junk yard part isn’t faulty).