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Most door speakers are 4 Ohm impedance.
For your car it looks like the doors take 6.5″ speakers but you’d also need an adapter plate to be able to fit the new speakers in the door. You’ll also want to get speaker wiring adapters to go from the factory plugs to the aftermarket speakers.What trim level is your car? Is the system factory amplified/premium sound system?
Most door speakers are 4 Ohm impedance.
For your car it looks like the doors take 6.5″ speakers but you’d also need an adapter plate to be able to fit the new speakers in the door. You’ll also want to get speaker wiring adapters to go from the factory plugs to the aftermarket speakers.What trim level is your car? Is the system factory amplified/premium sound system?
Yeah pulling those connectors off the old speakers wouldn’t be the correct way to go I agree.
Some people take cars back to stock prior to selling/trading the car in. While I understand that’s not really a concern with the Vigor it’s one of the reasons why I suggest normal consumers buy the appropriate speaker wiring adapter. You had no issues cutting the plugs off but you also have no intention of going back to stock, had totally shot 21 yr old speakers and also were replacing all of them so you had the ability to wire all of them so they were in phase.That’s not always the same situation as all of your viewers; some of them might just want better sound but have ok stock speakers, might not be doing all of them so they could wire the fronts out of phase with the rears or some might not even be comfortable soldering. I still say that for the majority of people for $12 or so for all 4 speakers the wiring harness adapters are the way to go.
Here’s what those look like for the older Honda/Acura vehicles; you can see where they plug into the factory speaker connection and then give you the spade connectors for the speakers.
Yeah pulling those connectors off the old speakers wouldn’t be the correct way to go I agree.
Some people take cars back to stock prior to selling/trading the car in. While I understand that’s not really a concern with the Vigor it’s one of the reasons why I suggest normal consumers buy the appropriate speaker wiring adapter. You had no issues cutting the plugs off but you also have no intention of going back to stock, had totally shot 21 yr old speakers and also were replacing all of them so you had the ability to wire all of them so they were in phase.That’s not always the same situation as all of your viewers; some of them might just want better sound but have ok stock speakers, might not be doing all of them so they could wire the fronts out of phase with the rears or some might not even be comfortable soldering. I still say that for the majority of people for $12 or so for all 4 speakers the wiring harness adapters are the way to go.
Here’s what those look like for the older Honda/Acura vehicles; you can see where they plug into the factory speaker connection and then give you the spade connectors for the speakers.
I understand the Vigor is a not a car you want to put a bunch of money into but rather than cutting off the factory speaker I’d suggest people get the correct corresponding speaker wiring adapter for their vehicle. That way the factory plugs are maintained, no semi-permanent modification to the wiring is performed and there’s no way to mess up polarity.
For instance Metra 72-7800 looks like it would have been the correct part for the Vigor from all the fit guide data I’ve been able to find. Amazon has them for about $6 for a pair. It would have lessened the install time, made it a bit more fool proof as far as polarity goes and you would have had less wire to have to put back into the door cavity.
Just my $0.02
I understand the Vigor is a not a car you want to put a bunch of money into but rather than cutting off the factory speaker I’d suggest people get the correct corresponding speaker wiring adapter for their vehicle. That way the factory plugs are maintained, no semi-permanent modification to the wiring is performed and there’s no way to mess up polarity.
For instance Metra 72-7800 looks like it would have been the correct part for the Vigor from all the fit guide data I’ve been able to find. Amazon has them for about $6 for a pair. It would have lessened the install time, made it a bit more fool proof as far as polarity goes and you would have had less wire to have to put back into the door cavity.
Just my $0.02
It wasn’t too bad for me. On a car that old and that many miles penetrating oil, an impact wrench and possibly a torch will be your friends. It depends on how rusted up and stuck the bolts are.
It wasn’t too bad for me. On a car that old and that many miles penetrating oil, an impact wrench and possibly a torch will be your friends. It depends on how rusted up and stuck the bolts are.
Last time I looked at pressing in some Moog ball joints for my neon it was almost the same price (and a heck of a lot less aggravation) to just buy new control arms with bushings and ball joint in it already.
A look at rockauto.com shows you can get them for $30-40 complete with new bushings and ball joints.
It might be worth it just to get the whole new assemblies due to the amount of milage on the suspension and the ball joints themselves ran like $25 each. So honestly it wasn’t much more for the whole control arm.
Last time I looked at pressing in some Moog ball joints for my neon it was almost the same price (and a heck of a lot less aggravation) to just buy new control arms with bushings and ball joint in it already.
A look at rockauto.com shows you can get them for $30-40 complete with new bushings and ball joints.
It might be worth it just to get the whole new assemblies due to the amount of milage on the suspension and the ball joints themselves ran like $25 each. So honestly it wasn’t much more for the whole control arm.
[quote=”Black_Blade” post=104822]I just unplugged the IAC connector to see if any difference…there was none.[/quote]
Ok so it’s pretty obvious that the IAC is not working properly than. If the IAC was working properly and you unplugged it you would have noticed a change.I agree with Karl.
[quote=”Black_Blade” post=104822]I just unplugged the IAC connector to see if any difference…there was none.[/quote]
Ok so it’s pretty obvious that the IAC is not working properly than. If the IAC was working properly and you unplugged it you would have noticed a change.I agree with Karl.
The P0508 code you’re getting is an IAC short to ground or battery voltage code.
Since you both cleaned and replaced the IAC with one you know to be good I’d take a look at the wiring connecting to the IAC.As far as the TPS voltage issue maybe your scanner just can’t interpret that data correctly and is showing 0 volts. The signal voltage seemed correct.
The P0508 code you’re getting is an IAC short to ground or battery voltage code.
Since you both cleaned and replaced the IAC with one you know to be good I’d take a look at the wiring connecting to the IAC.As far as the TPS voltage issue maybe your scanner just can’t interpret that data correctly and is showing 0 volts. The signal voltage seemed correct.
Nah it’s not really progress since the dealer has said they’ve “fixed” the same issue 3 times now and yet it’s been towed into them 3 times dead, no crank/no start and a communications issue all 3 times. LOL
I have the ability to read airbag DTCs on GMs at home but lack the few tools to do things like BCM programming on GMs.