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Yup if it were me I’d be voltage drop testing the cables that connect the battery, starter and alternator together to see if any of them had excessive voltage drop and indicating that the wire is losing voltage which would indicate that section of wire has a poor connection or internal damage.
In addition, check the grounds.
How old is the battery? If the voltage drop and grounds are ok I’m going with a bad battery.
Also, I’m not a fan of jumping these cars. I have a friend who owns both a jetta and A4 and had issues with his TCM after a jump – not fun.
That fuse has stuff on it that is kept active for about 45 minutes after car off and door shut. See if after 45 minutes the voltage draw goes away.
How old is the battery?
That fuse has stuff on it that is kept active for about 45 minutes after car off and door shut. See if after 45 minutes the voltage draw goes away.
How old is the battery?
From what I’ve seen electronic aided diagnostics are not fool proof. They can help point you down the right road (or even sometimes lead you down the wrong path if you’re the type who just likes to throw parts at codes) but are not an exact diagnosis. For instance a code could point to an issue with a transmission solenoid but it doesn’t tell you if it’s maybe a wiring problem or a bad solenoid. So while they can help you still have to have critical thinking and diagnostic skills.
From what I’ve seen electronic aided diagnostics are not fool proof. They can help point you down the right road (or even sometimes lead you down the wrong path if you’re the type who just likes to throw parts at codes) but are not an exact diagnosis. For instance a code could point to an issue with a transmission solenoid but it doesn’t tell you if it’s maybe a wiring problem or a bad solenoid. So while they can help you still have to have critical thinking and diagnostic skills.
Glad you got it resolved. Which ground connection was it? Just curious and it might come in handy to others in the future.
Glad you got it resolved. Which ground connection was it? Just curious and it might come in handy to others in the future.
[quote=”EricTheCarGuy” post=105552]I don’t believe the PCM has anything to do with a no crank no start on that vehicle.[/quote]
On these GM passlock vehicles like the Impala and Monte carlo the BCM checks the passlock circuit and gives the ok to start to the PCM which will enable the fuel delivery and crank circuits. So it’s involved but not the first thing I’d jump to.13aceofspades13 has a lot of the pattern failures for these cars here: http://ericthecarguy.com/kunena/common-problems-pattern-failures/50806-gm-w-body-cars-3100-3400-sfi-3800-engines
My $0.02 I’d check the connection between the battery negative and the cable that side post screws into it if that has a somewhat flakey ground it’ll cause gremlins.
The radio isn’t really involved with passlock. The OEM radios check security over the class2 data line and go into locked mode if the BCM is changed or if it’s not programmed for the car.
[quote=”EricTheCarGuy” post=105552]I don’t believe the PCM has anything to do with a no crank no start on that vehicle.[/quote]
On these GM passlock vehicles like the Impala and Monte carlo the BCM checks the passlock circuit and gives the ok to start to the PCM which will enable the fuel delivery and crank circuits. So it’s involved but not the first thing I’d jump to.13aceofspades13 has a lot of the pattern failures for these cars here: http://ericthecarguy.com/kunena/common-problems-pattern-failures/50806-gm-w-body-cars-3100-3400-sfi-3800-engines
My $0.02 I’d check the connection between the battery negative and the cable that side post screws into it if that has a somewhat flakey ground it’ll cause gremlins.
The radio isn’t really involved with passlock. The OEM radios check security over the class2 data line and go into locked mode if the BCM is changed or if it’s not programmed for the car.
Looks like those codes point to a few things; some issues with the EVAP system and some issues with the transmission solenoid, torque converter.
How’s the fluid level in the transmission? How are your fuses?
Have you inspected the wiring that runs to the transmission? I wonder if something rubbed or melted. On some of those vehicles they run the wiring harnesses above the exhaust at one point. I’ve seen them melt or rub against the body of the vehicle and short to ground.I’ve also seen squirrels chew through things and cause fun issues.
Looks like those codes point to a few things; some issues with the EVAP system and some issues with the transmission solenoid, torque converter.
How’s the fluid level in the transmission? How are your fuses?
Have you inspected the wiring that runs to the transmission? I wonder if something rubbed or melted. On some of those vehicles they run the wiring harnesses above the exhaust at one point. I’ve seen them melt or rub against the body of the vehicle and short to ground.I’ve also seen squirrels chew through things and cause fun issues.
You might be able to flush it out but honestly I’d price the car as if the engine was shot. Signs of deferred maintenance like this would call into question for me if the vehicle had been properly maintained otherwise… so I’d want it cheap.