Forum Replies Created
-
Replies
-
Honestly I’d say the FaF is likely more of a temporary ‘band aid’ meant to get you out of a bind but is not a replacement for actually getting the leak sealed correctly. Also, I hear the techs at tire places just love dealing with the mess on the inside of the tire after FaF.
If it were me I’d get it done correctly. I routinely get email coupons for free flat repair from places like Tire barn (in the US, not sure where you’re at) so it might be useful to see if any local places has online coupons for it.
Honestly I’d say the FaF is likely more of a temporary ‘band aid’ meant to get you out of a bind but is not a replacement for actually getting the leak sealed correctly. Also, I hear the techs at tire places just love dealing with the mess on the inside of the tire after FaF.
If it were me I’d get it done correctly. I routinely get email coupons for free flat repair from places like Tire barn (in the US, not sure where you’re at) so it might be useful to see if any local places has online coupons for it.
On my 2004 neon when the camshaft position sensor went kaput it would do something similar; it would be hard to start but eventually with enough cranking it would get going, and shifting into anything beyond 3rd it would surge and shutter unless I left off the gas and let it ease into gear a bit.
Is it an automatic or manual transmission?
How’s the fluid level, color and smell?
Do you have any check engine lights?On my 2004 neon when the camshaft position sensor went kaput it would do something similar; it would be hard to start but eventually with enough cranking it would get going, and shifting into anything beyond 3rd it would surge and shutter unless I left off the gas and let it ease into gear a bit.
Is it an automatic or manual transmission?
How’s the fluid level, color and smell?
Do you have any check engine lights?[quote=”Stephan” post=107160]Two proverbs regarding this topic:
Never do things by halves.
Who buys cheap buys twice.[/quote]
I’ve got a similar one that I use:
If you don’t have time to do it right when will you have time to do it over?[quote=”Stephan” post=107160]Two proverbs regarding this topic:
Never do things by halves.
Who buys cheap buys twice.[/quote]
I’ve got a similar one that I use:
If you don’t have time to do it right when will you have time to do it over?Before I jumped to looking into more powerful motors I’d first do things like check my cabin air filter and the blower motor squirrel cage for obstructions.
Before I jumped to looking into more powerful motors I’d first do things like check my cabin air filter and the blower motor squirrel cage for obstructions.
[quote=”barneyb” post=106900][quote=”jdub1022″ post=106852]As long as you have a known flat surface and a flashlight you can check that stuff yourself. especially if youre tight on money. its not a bad investment to take it to a machine shop but how much time or money do you have? thats the question. Ive done several without taking the head to the machine shop. if you know what to look for that is. just make sure its not warped or cracked and the mating surfaces are clean and youll be good.[/quote]
What do you recommend as a “known flat surface”? Is there anything you can use without resorting to buying a machinist’s special tool. I’d like to have something like this myself.[/quote]
I’ve used something like this in the past
http://www.harborfreight.com/12-in-heavy-duty-combination-suare-69361.html[quote=”barneyb” post=106900][quote=”jdub1022″ post=106852]As long as you have a known flat surface and a flashlight you can check that stuff yourself. especially if youre tight on money. its not a bad investment to take it to a machine shop but how much time or money do you have? thats the question. Ive done several without taking the head to the machine shop. if you know what to look for that is. just make sure its not warped or cracked and the mating surfaces are clean and youll be good.[/quote]
What do you recommend as a “known flat surface”? Is there anything you can use without resorting to buying a machinist’s special tool. I’d like to have something like this myself.[/quote]
I’ve used something like this in the past
http://www.harborfreight.com/12-in-heavy-duty-combination-suare-69361.htmlThe symptoms could also be caused by a faulty injector putting too much fuel into the cylinder. On cold the engine would need more gas to start anyhow so it would start ok. Once it’s warmed up and parked for a short duration the engine would need less gas to start and still have too much left in the cylinder. When parked for longer duration that allow the engine to cool it sounds like it starts better (because it needs extra gas to start when cold). When it is being a pain it sounds like eventually the flood condition clears enough for the car to start.
If you warm the car up a little and then were to pull a plug at a time are any soaked with gasoline?
The symptoms could also be caused by a faulty injector putting too much fuel into the cylinder. On cold the engine would need more gas to start anyhow so it would start ok. Once it’s warmed up and parked for a short duration the engine would need less gas to start and still have too much left in the cylinder. When parked for longer duration that allow the engine to cool it sounds like it starts better (because it needs extra gas to start when cold). When it is being a pain it sounds like eventually the flood condition clears enough for the car to start.
If you warm the car up a little and then were to pull a plug at a time are any soaked with gasoline?
[quote=”diy_newbie” post=106814]Now the video shows a power probe being used. I don’t have that. Can I use a basic Digital multi-meter to do what is being done in video.[/quote]
Yes you can 🙂
Also here’s a video on how to replace the rear window regulator. since neither of the switches work it’s likely the motor/regulator assembly.[quote=”diy_newbie” post=106814]Now the video shows a power probe being used. I don’t have that. Can I use a basic Digital multi-meter to do what is being done in video.[/quote]
Yes you can 🙂
Also here’s a video on how to replace the rear window regulator. since neither of the switches work it’s likely the motor/regulator assembly.Yup if it were me I’d be voltage drop testing the cables that connect the battery, starter and alternator together to see if any of them had excessive voltage drop and indicating that the wire is losing voltage which would indicate that section of wire has a poor connection or internal damage.
In addition, check the grounds.
How old is the battery? If the voltage drop and grounds are ok I’m going with a bad battery.
Also, I’m not a fan of jumping these cars. I have a friend who owns both a jetta and A4 and had issues with his TCM after a jump – not fun.