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Why not swap the fan relay with the AC relay and see if the fan then works? Then you know it’s a bad relay.
If it still doesn’t work you can check the fuse for the fan.
If the fuse is ok, you can then look at replacing the fan.I put a video at the bottom of my post on how to replace the fan. If you watch that and think you can do it why not save the labor and replace it yourself?
[quote=”ToyotaKarl” post=107779]Since you have not given us the Year of the car, it is a difficult estimation of maintenance costs, but I will be frank with you that Chryslers are not my favorites… Pay less now, more later and get a car that dies earlier…. JMHO [/quote]
Karl, the year of the vehicle is in the subject of the post (2003).
It’s likely the base 2.4L Naturally Aspirated 4 CYL engine as very few of them were the GT (2.4L Turbo) in the US.Did the same mechanic that changed the timing belt also change the water pump and tensioner in 2010 at the same time? A good mechanic will suggest it as they’re in there anyhow and if they did in 2010 there would have been less of a need to do a coolant flush/fill in 2013 IMO. Or did the radiator fail in the way that they tend to and the transmission cooler line breaks out (darn plastic!)?
You can check the fan fuses and relays on your own. Typically the other relays will fit (like the AC relay) in the same slot. You can swap one of the known good relays with the fan relay. You’ll find these relays in the power distribution center under the hood 🙂 Here’s a chart on how the fan should operate:
I bet if you’re semi-mechanically inclined you can work on narrowing it down. I have a very similar vehicle (2004 dodge neon) and parts are pretty easy to find at the junkyard/pickapart/auto parts store. If you do go buying a new fan assembly at an auto part store look for coupon codes online for places like advanced auto. They routinely have 30% off online coupons and you can do in store pickup.
[quote=”ToyotaKarl” post=107779]Since you have not given us the Year of the car, it is a difficult estimation of maintenance costs, but I will be frank with you that Chryslers are not my favorites… Pay less now, more later and get a car that dies earlier…. JMHO [/quote]
Karl, the year of the vehicle is in the subject of the post (2003).
It’s likely the base 2.4L Naturally Aspirated 4 CYL engine as very few of them were the GT (2.4L Turbo) in the US.Did the same mechanic that changed the timing belt also change the water pump and tensioner in 2010 at the same time? A good mechanic will suggest it as they’re in there anyhow and if they did in 2010 there would have been less of a need to do a coolant flush/fill in 2013 IMO. Or did the radiator fail in the way that they tend to and the transmission cooler line breaks out (darn plastic!)?
You can check the fan fuses and relays on your own. Typically the other relays will fit (like the AC relay) in the same slot. You can swap one of the known good relays with the fan relay. You’ll find these relays in the power distribution center under the hood 🙂 Here’s a chart on how the fan should operate:
I bet if you’re semi-mechanically inclined you can work on narrowing it down. I have a very similar vehicle (2004 dodge neon) and parts are pretty easy to find at the junkyard/pickapart/auto parts store. If you do go buying a new fan assembly at an auto part store look for coupon codes online for places like advanced auto. They routinely have 30% off online coupons and you can do in store pickup.
That rate of oil consumption is not normal nor acceptable.
It won’t resolve itself over time magically by just changing the oil more frequently.
You’ve got an engine problem with that much consumption. Did you have this issue before they messed with it?That rate of oil consumption is not normal nor acceptable.
It won’t resolve itself over time magically by just changing the oil more frequently.
You’ve got an engine problem with that much consumption. Did you have this issue before they messed with it?Sounds like power steering whine. How’s the fluid level in the power steering reservoir? Hows the color?
When the car is running are there any bubbles or frothing in the reservoir (the o-rings on them go bad, let air into the system and can cause noises)?Sounds like power steering whine. How’s the fluid level in the power steering reservoir? Hows the color?
When the car is running are there any bubbles or frothing in the reservoir (the o-rings on them go bad, let air into the system and can cause noises)?Plus even if the oil isn’t dirty the additive packages in the oil can wear out due to it being in the engine for a long time. I vote to change it.
Plus even if the oil isn’t dirty the additive packages in the oil can wear out due to it being in the engine for a long time. I vote to change it.
Your 2way needs so much amperage that you need to run a dedicated power line?
Why not just splice into the cig lighter/12V accessory wires for power and ground?Running a separate power line into the cabin usually involves a lot more work including checking where you’re going to drill through the firewall several times so you don’t drill into a wiring harness/break booster/anything, installing a grommet and then fishing wire.
Your 2way needs so much amperage that you need to run a dedicated power line?
Why not just splice into the cig lighter/12V accessory wires for power and ground?Running a separate power line into the cabin usually involves a lot more work including checking where you’re going to drill through the firewall several times so you don’t drill into a wiring harness/break booster/anything, installing a grommet and then fishing wire.
Honestly I find it a bit too expensive at $40-80. I’ll deal with using my actual breaker bar where space permits and if not the $4ish length of pipe. I can’t see where the tool offers a functional advantage in either ease of use or performance over a piece of pipe 😆
Honestly I find it a bit too expensive at $40-80. I’ll deal with using my actual breaker bar where space permits and if not the $4ish length of pipe. I can’t see where the tool offers a functional advantage in either ease of use or performance over a piece of pipe 😆
OEM is not always better. Anytime you use always or never in an argument you’re typically going to be wrong.
There will always be cheaply made replacement parts, OEM parts and higher quality replacement parts.Just look at the cruddy OEM coolant elbows and LIM gaskets on the 3800 GM cars. Aftermarket companies have made better LIM gaskets (Felpro) and metal coolant elbows instead of the OEM plastic. Also look at the heater hose Y on the 2008-2009ish Caravan/Town and Country. They break right along a mold seam and are right above the exhaust (wonderful engineering). Gates has come out with a superior to OEM replacement part.
OEMs source and price parts largely by supply cost so they’re not always getting the best part, they’re getting the best part for the price they’re willing to pay.
OEM is not always better. Anytime you use always or never in an argument you’re typically going to be wrong.
There will always be cheaply made replacement parts, OEM parts and higher quality replacement parts.Just look at the cruddy OEM coolant elbows and LIM gaskets on the 3800 GM cars. Aftermarket companies have made better LIM gaskets (Felpro) and metal coolant elbows instead of the OEM plastic. Also look at the heater hose Y on the 2008-2009ish Caravan/Town and Country. They break right along a mold seam and are right above the exhaust (wonderful engineering). Gates has come out with a superior to OEM replacement part.
OEMs source and price parts largely by supply cost so they’re not always getting the best part, they’re getting the best part for the price they’re willing to pay.