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Honestly what they said doesn’t make sense as far as the reasoning. Dielectric grease will help keep water out (most headlights are inside a waterproof housing anyhow) and sometimes as it gets old will gunk things up so it’s done more harm than good.
Personally I don’t use it on light bulbs. I do use it on things like spark plug boots as it can help you remove them later without breaking the wires.
Honestly what they said doesn’t make sense as far as the reasoning. Dielectric grease will help keep water out (most headlights are inside a waterproof housing anyhow) and sometimes as it gets old will gunk things up so it’s done more harm than good.
Personally I don’t use it on light bulbs. I do use it on things like spark plug boots as it can help you remove them later without breaking the wires.
[quote=”barneyb” post=108211]I don’t agree with the statement that oil additives wear out just from sitting. [/quote]
Sitting in an engine they can at least from what I’ve read and what some of the oil mfgs say.
http://www.pennzoil.com/learn-about-motor-oil/what-is-motor-oil/Friction Modifiers
These do what you think; they reduce friction under high loads and high temperatures, helping to maintain peak efficiency and fuel economy. The effectiveness of these additives diminishes over time as the oil ages[quote=”barneyb” post=108211]I don’t agree with the statement that oil additives wear out just from sitting. [/quote]
Sitting in an engine they can at least from what I’ve read and what some of the oil mfgs say.
http://www.pennzoil.com/learn-about-motor-oil/what-is-motor-oil/Friction Modifiers
These do what you think; they reduce friction under high loads and high temperatures, helping to maintain peak efficiency and fuel economy. The effectiveness of these additives diminishes over time as the oil agesThose small leak codes on Cavaliers of this vintage I’ve seen caused by a crack around the fill location. I’ve also seen the wiring harness going to them (by the rear passenger wheel) break/fray and throw codes.
Those small leak codes on Cavaliers of this vintage I’ve seen caused by a crack around the fill location. I’ve also seen the wiring harness going to them (by the rear passenger wheel) break/fray and throw codes.
How did your plug wires look? If you swap cylinder 3s wire with another one does the misfire code change to the other cylinder? Have you checked for vacuum and intake leaks? Once you rule out those things it could be a failing injector. Thankfully they’re not too hard to pull the fuel rail and replace on that vehicle.
How did your plug wires look? If you swap cylinder 3s wire with another one does the misfire code change to the other cylinder? Have you checked for vacuum and intake leaks? Once you rule out those things it could be a failing injector. Thankfully they’re not too hard to pull the fuel rail and replace on that vehicle.
[quote=”jdub1022″ post=108188]i could go on for days about what COULD be wrong. as for the bumper, maybe you can find one in a scrap yard near you. only about 50$. but brand new, 2 or 300$. just a guess[/quote]
You can use http://car-part.com to find a salvage bumper near you. It will show the price, distance, color and condition. It’ll be less than the dealer for sure.Low usage can cause issues with the fluids in the vehicle. Also the car should be taken out and driven a few times a month and allowed to get up to closed loop/operating temp. The main things you have to look at is the chemical addatives in coolant/engine oil will wear out due to time and not due to milage. Rubber hoses and belts will go due to time and not milage. So for instance if the timing belt, water pump, and tensioner would normally be replaced at 100k miles you’ll want to replace them well before that (because it could be 80 years before she hits that point 😛 ) You also want to change the oil before 3k miles because the additives will wear out just from sitting.
[quote=”jdub1022″ post=108188]i could go on for days about what COULD be wrong. as for the bumper, maybe you can find one in a scrap yard near you. only about 50$. but brand new, 2 or 300$. just a guess[/quote]
You can use http://car-part.com to find a salvage bumper near you. It will show the price, distance, color and condition. It’ll be less than the dealer for sure.Low usage can cause issues with the fluids in the vehicle. Also the car should be taken out and driven a few times a month and allowed to get up to closed loop/operating temp. The main things you have to look at is the chemical addatives in coolant/engine oil will wear out due to time and not due to milage. Rubber hoses and belts will go due to time and not milage. So for instance if the timing belt, water pump, and tensioner would normally be replaced at 100k miles you’ll want to replace them well before that (because it could be 80 years before she hits that point 😛 ) You also want to change the oil before 3k miles because the additives will wear out just from sitting.
Why was the car at the dealer? is it pulling when breaking? To me the rust itself doesn’t tell me the caliper is necessarily bound up. Rotors are steel, steel can rust.
[quote=”barneyb” post=107890]I don’t remember getting a bad part from NAPA. The dealerships and repair shops use NAPA. The closest store to me is Advance Auto and I use then often. But at Advance Auto I look on their computer for their most expensive stuff. I’ve been burned even then but not usually.[/quote]
I got a bad rear expansion valve from NAPA (that was a fun ordeal) so it can happen.
I’ve had good luck with advance auto parts in conjunction with coupon codes from: retailmenot.com/view/advanceautoparts.comWhy was the car at the dealer? is it pulling when breaking? To me the rust itself doesn’t tell me the caliper is necessarily bound up. Rotors are steel, steel can rust.
[quote=”barneyb” post=107890]I don’t remember getting a bad part from NAPA. The dealerships and repair shops use NAPA. The closest store to me is Advance Auto and I use then often. But at Advance Auto I look on their computer for their most expensive stuff. I’ve been burned even then but not usually.[/quote]
I got a bad rear expansion valve from NAPA (that was a fun ordeal) so it can happen.
I’ve had good luck with advance auto parts in conjunction with coupon codes from: retailmenot.com/view/advanceautoparts.comWhy not swap the fan relay with the AC relay and see if the fan then works? Then you know it’s a bad relay.
If it still doesn’t work you can check the fuse for the fan.
If the fuse is ok, you can then look at replacing the fan.I put a video at the bottom of my post on how to replace the fan. If you watch that and think you can do it why not save the labor and replace it yourself?