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Sounds like a tire out of balance. Have them balanced on a road force machine that applies force on the tire tread.
[quote=”dieseltech9″ post=52610]The worst thing I have to do for the dealership is work on trash machines. Every few months a trash compactor or bulldozer comes in for work and the first thing we have to do, depending on the work that needs to be done, is strip off all of the body panels and access covers. Its hard to exactly define the smell that oozes from the machine but any way you slice it, its nasty. After washing it, which only removes the “loose stuff”, you get to actually work on it. On some of the larger compactors (see picture) I’ve had to, by hand, dig out some of the components. Trash is also pretty acidic so in no time the whole machine becomes a rust bucket and not a single fastener wants to come out easily. The whole time your working on it you have to wear a tyvek suit and dust mask. Did I mention that it stinks up the whole shop as well? Truly one of the worst jobs to get in my shop! :sick:
-Pete
P.S. Sorry about the picture quality, lights were off and the camera is getting old.[/quote]After reading that, I don’t think I can ever complain about old crusty clothes or food under seats or grime built up in someone’s car. By far, that has to be the worst job in automotive repair lol.
[quote=”dieseltech9″ post=52610]The worst thing I have to do for the dealership is work on trash machines. Every few months a trash compactor or bulldozer comes in for work and the first thing we have to do, depending on the work that needs to be done, is strip off all of the body panels and access covers. Its hard to exactly define the smell that oozes from the machine but any way you slice it, its nasty. After washing it, which only removes the “loose stuff”, you get to actually work on it. On some of the larger compactors (see picture) I’ve had to, by hand, dig out some of the components. Trash is also pretty acidic so in no time the whole machine becomes a rust bucket and not a single fastener wants to come out easily. The whole time your working on it you have to wear a tyvek suit and dust mask. Did I mention that it stinks up the whole shop as well? Truly one of the worst jobs to get in my shop! :sick:
-Pete
P.S. Sorry about the picture quality, lights were off and the camera is getting old.[/quote]After reading that, I don’t think I can ever complain about old crusty clothes or food under seats or grime built up in someone’s car. By far, that has to be the worst job in automotive repair lol.
[quote=”Superman” post=50514][quote=”drthrift035″ post=50392]I am going out on a limb. Today a lot of customers have had very bad experiences with mechanics. I am sure that some of them have had good experiences with mechanics as well. [/quote]
I disagree, I think most people have had good experiences. I think a lot of the supposed “bad experiences” arent bad at all. I think the customer just thinks its a bad experience. I think the problem is what I like to call fixit shops, around here most shops are fixit shops. They do what the car came in for and thats it. So someone has a car for years and years and all they did was take it to these fixit shops, then they happen to take it to an actual repair shop and all of a sudden they need a bunch of work and they think they are being ripped off because none of the other shops told them about any of it.[/quote]
People this day in age tend to be much more vocal about bad experiences than good experiences. Also, as you said, some people will just have their local mechanic or the guy down the road fix something on their 15 year old car with 180k miles. Cars deteriorate over time and basic maintenance is often overlooked. Resulting in a snowball effect. Then when you look at it for a complaint of squeaks, clunks, grinding, and poor handling. it’s like okay, your coil spring is cracked and you need new front springs, your ball joints have boots that are torn to shreds and need to be replaced, your sway bar bushings are rotted, and you need new brake pads and rotors. Then they ask “well what can be done for now because I don’t have much money?” It’s like I just told you the bare minimum that needed to be done to get the car to be safe. If you want me to fix everything that’s wrong on your POS car, you’d be much better off buying a new car.
[quote=”Superman” post=50514][quote=”drthrift035″ post=50392]I am going out on a limb. Today a lot of customers have had very bad experiences with mechanics. I am sure that some of them have had good experiences with mechanics as well. [/quote]
I disagree, I think most people have had good experiences. I think a lot of the supposed “bad experiences” arent bad at all. I think the customer just thinks its a bad experience. I think the problem is what I like to call fixit shops, around here most shops are fixit shops. They do what the car came in for and thats it. So someone has a car for years and years and all they did was take it to these fixit shops, then they happen to take it to an actual repair shop and all of a sudden they need a bunch of work and they think they are being ripped off because none of the other shops told them about any of it.[/quote]
People this day in age tend to be much more vocal about bad experiences than good experiences. Also, as you said, some people will just have their local mechanic or the guy down the road fix something on their 15 year old car with 180k miles. Cars deteriorate over time and basic maintenance is often overlooked. Resulting in a snowball effect. Then when you look at it for a complaint of squeaks, clunks, grinding, and poor handling. it’s like okay, your coil spring is cracked and you need new front springs, your ball joints have boots that are torn to shreds and need to be replaced, your sway bar bushings are rotted, and you need new brake pads and rotors. Then they ask “well what can be done for now because I don’t have much money?” It’s like I just told you the bare minimum that needed to be done to get the car to be safe. If you want me to fix everything that’s wrong on your POS car, you’d be much better off buying a new car.
[quote=”619DioFan” post=52108]Not sure how that would work. another option is to fill the hole with jb weld. let it set up completely then drill and tap to correct size.[/quote]
I agree. That would be the best bet for a valve cover. As long as you clean out the hole really well so the JB weld will stick, then put the valve cover in place and snugged down with the remaining bolts so that it gives you the exact placement of the drill bit for the hole, and so that no shavings find their way into the engine. Once done drilling, take the shop vac and vacuum out all the shavings from the valve cover and around it.[quote=”619DioFan” post=52108]Not sure how that would work. another option is to fill the hole with jb weld. let it set up completely then drill and tap to correct size.[/quote]
I agree. That would be the best bet for a valve cover. As long as you clean out the hole really well so the JB weld will stick, then put the valve cover in place and snugged down with the remaining bolts so that it gives you the exact placement of the drill bit for the hole, and so that no shavings find their way into the engine. Once done drilling, take the shop vac and vacuum out all the shavings from the valve cover and around it.This could be a very long list seeing as I used to (and still do, just not as much as I used to) buy, fix and sell cars left and right. I’ve had over 60 cars, trucks and vans….
But for my personal vehicles that I had for my own use and didn’t plan to just fix and flip,
89′ S10 Blazer
93 Ford Explorer
04 Chevy Colorado
I’ve had 3 2000 Honda Civic EX’s (one I swapped a H22 powertrain into. another one I’d still be driving to this day if a woman didn’t come across 3 lanes of traffic and hit me and wreck it. It was immaculate inside and out. ran like a top, and got over 40 mpg. I owned it for 7 months and put 28k on it and all I ever had to do was change the oil. It was slow, but reliable as heck, handled like a dream, very comfortable ride even on long drives, and excellent fuel economy)
2 95 Honda Civic EX’s (one was a hatch that had a B16B in and a right hand drive conversion by a previous owner)
2 1995 Ford Rangers
86 Chevy S10
97 Dodge Ram
96 Subaru Impreza
VW sandrail that I built and is road legal
99 Civic SI
and the one that I regret selling more than anything was my old 97 Honda Del Sol SI 🙁
and there’s a few others, but I think that’s enough to post lolThis could be a very long list seeing as I used to (and still do, just not as much as I used to) buy, fix and sell cars left and right. I’ve had over 60 cars, trucks and vans….
But for my personal vehicles that I had for my own use and didn’t plan to just fix and flip,
89′ S10 Blazer
93 Ford Explorer
04 Chevy Colorado
I’ve had 3 2000 Honda Civic EX’s (one I swapped a H22 powertrain into. another one I’d still be driving to this day if a woman didn’t come across 3 lanes of traffic and hit me and wreck it. It was immaculate inside and out. ran like a top, and got over 40 mpg. I owned it for 7 months and put 28k on it and all I ever had to do was change the oil. It was slow, but reliable as heck, handled like a dream, very comfortable ride even on long drives, and excellent fuel economy)
2 95 Honda Civic EX’s (one was a hatch that had a B16B in and a right hand drive conversion by a previous owner)
2 1995 Ford Rangers
86 Chevy S10
97 Dodge Ram
96 Subaru Impreza
VW sandrail that I built and is road legal
99 Civic SI
and the one that I regret selling more than anything was my old 97 Honda Del Sol SI 🙁
and there’s a few others, but I think that’s enough to post lolwhen it doesn’t want to go into gear after a while does it grind or just not want to go into gear but doesn’t make a grinding noise? is it only in 3rd gear that it has trouble going into?
when it doesn’t want to go into gear after a while does it grind or just not want to go into gear but doesn’t make a grinding noise? is it only in 3rd gear that it has trouble going into?
I have a few that I absolutely love.
my SO SHCP1 hose clamp pliers are awesome for hose clamps that are impossible to get to with regular pliers or you have to fight with the channel locks because you have to open the jaws up so much to go over the clamp tabs that you can’t close it enough to get it on the pipe. Love these things.
another favorite tool is my Crescent Double X pliers for getting into tight spots that otherwise would take a lot more time to get to.I have a few that I absolutely love.
my SO SHCP1 hose clamp pliers are awesome for hose clamps that are impossible to get to with regular pliers or you have to fight with the channel locks because you have to open the jaws up so much to go over the clamp tabs that you can’t close it enough to get it on the pipe. Love these things.
another favorite tool is my Crescent Double X pliers for getting into tight spots that otherwise would take a lot more time to get to.[quote=”99TegGSR” post=47550]the shop has told me if I do choose to replace the pistons, rings and rods for $2000 more, he is not going to warranty the parts, because from his knowledge and experience these Acura GSR engines burn oil, because of their high revving nature.[/quote]
If he won’t warranty his work, then don’t do it. I’ve never heard of a stock rebuild not being backed by some sort of warranty. Even if it’s only a 90 day warranty or something. Especially for that kind of money.
Doing the work yourself isn’t that hard. pull the head off, replace the water pump, and send the head to a machine shop to have the head work done. Should be able to get it done for a couple hundred bucks. Why did he say that the bottom end needed to be rebuilt? what’s wrong with the engine? Is it just a burnt valve or something? Why would he be replacing the oil pump and tearing into the bottom end? I didn’t see where you said what brought you into the shop due to a specific problem.[quote=”99TegGSR” post=47550]the shop has told me if I do choose to replace the pistons, rings and rods for $2000 more, he is not going to warranty the parts, because from his knowledge and experience these Acura GSR engines burn oil, because of their high revving nature.[/quote]
If he won’t warranty his work, then don’t do it. I’ve never heard of a stock rebuild not being backed by some sort of warranty. Even if it’s only a 90 day warranty or something. Especially for that kind of money.
Doing the work yourself isn’t that hard. pull the head off, replace the water pump, and send the head to a machine shop to have the head work done. Should be able to get it done for a couple hundred bucks. Why did he say that the bottom end needed to be rebuilt? what’s wrong with the engine? Is it just a burnt valve or something? Why would he be replacing the oil pump and tearing into the bottom end? I didn’t see where you said what brought you into the shop due to a specific problem.