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I really can’t complain about it. We purchased it with 60,000 miles on it and in the 3 years we’ve had it. This is the first issue we had.
It’s my wife’s daily driver and my tow vehicle for my sleds. I still wouldn’t hesitate to take it on a 4 hour ride with sleds and trailer in tow.
Those plugs are white. I don;t see any deposits at all on the insulator or the electrode. To me, it looks like the engine is running hot and lean. Too much air and not enough gas.
Well, I’m changing the post to a green light.
Long time since we had an update on this situation.
The Liberty has been in the garage for about a week and half. I was all set to have it towed to the nearest dealer last week when both the washer and dryer in our house died. So the funds in our bank account took a pretty good size hit when we decided to purchase a new front loading washer and dryer.
For the past 2 weeks, the Jeep has been stone cold dead. No signs of life what so ever. My wife calls a towing company to have it flat bedded over to the dealer. While waiting for the towing company. She goes out to the garage with our son to push it out of the garage. For the hell of it she decides to try to start it.
It starts right up!!! No issues. WTH!?!?!
While she is driving it, it starts to run crappy. Check engine light comes on and then stalls. She starts it again and makes it to the dealer. Engine light continues to be lit, she says it feels like it’s low on power. But other than that seems to be ok.
[color=#3d392a]Dealer calls me to tell it was the Crank Position Sensor and more than likely it was causing a dead short to the Liberty.
He also stated the SKIM had lost the programming for they keys. He says somehow it was reset. So he went ahead and flashed the PCM and it now seems to be ok.
I’m still not 100% that I’ve seen the last of the issue, but we will see.[/color]
Quoted From Beefy:
I think we have a winner. This may be an issue you have to bite the bullet on and take it to the dealer.
I completely agree. I did some more digging last night and found this post on another board which pretty much explains the Chrysler key system and WCM. It pretty much describes my condition. Granted the post is for a Jeep Grand Cherokee, but they basically use the same system on all of their platforms.
http://www.realworldautomotive.com/foru … rting.html
Another method I used when troubleshooting the front wheel bearings on my 2005 Pontiac Grand Prix was to jack the car up and put your hand on the coil spring while rotating the tire. It worked great, the bearing noises transmitted right into the spring and it was easy to tell the bearing was bad.
I would still take it down. Even if you do clean the case. You still need to resolve all of the fluid that’s made it way into the crank bearings.
Figured I would make a video of what I’m seeing
[url=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RAVNylWD1Yc&feature=youtu.be:1j4464p7]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RAVNylWD1Yc&feature=youtu.be
I[/url] went and pulled the wiring from the CKPS and the CMPS and there was no change. No power to the PCM. I ruled out the ignition switch a well. I checked for 12v from the fuse location within the PDC and I was getting 12 volts when the key was in the run position.
Also pulled the wiring from the alternator and the coil packs just to see if I would get any type of response. Thinking I have a short in the components.
So I know that I have 12 volts going from the ignition switch to the PDC . But for what ever reason, the PCM is not responding. At this point, I’m not sure what direction I need to go since I don;t have access to a schematic for the pinouts on the PCM,
Quoted From college man:
found this website with your symptoms. follow the procedure and see if it helps.C8-) the keys your using are the original not a spare.
if the key has a chip in it the spare won’t start the vehicle.http://www.justanswer.com/jeep/2mzez-20 … rying.html
Thanks for the site.
I went ahead and removed the relay for the starter and jumped pins 87 and 30 and the starter did engage and turned it over. It still didn’t fire though ( I expected that 🙂 )
I also tried the code reader using the key trick as well. I didn’t receive any codes, nor did it ever say that it was “Done” in the EVIC display..
So this pretty much rules out the battery and the starter from the equation.
I did try both keys (Original, No spares or Valet Keys) and the result was the same. I’m not ruling out the Wireless Control Module out just yet. But I’m curious to why if it was the Wireless Control Module. Why the keyless entry would still work from both FOB’s.
One interesting thing is that the Security LED on the dash is lit during all of this.
Also, the Jeep doesn’t use the SKIM system for the keys/ignition. Mine are just the normal black (Non SKIM) keys,
My passion is snowmobiles and I’ve been dealing with 2 strokes for a long time. If it was me, I wouldn’t take any chances. I would just take the whole thing down and split the case and clean it thoroughly.
If you suspect there is any type of grit or other contaminants in the case. Take the opportunity know to clean it. The grit your probably seeing is the metal particulates that were trapped in the ATF fluid from the gear wear in the trans.
Quoted From college man:
make sure the battery and terminals are clean and tight. do you have a security system on the vehicle and is the light blinking? if so
that maybe the problem. C8-)Cables were the first thing checked and the battery was tried in another vehicle with success.
No security system, just the default keyless entry system. Which is working fine. Everything related to the BCM is fine. (Windows, Locks, Headlights, Horn, Wiper. HVAC Controls, Radio. ETC ETC)
I know it’s not the battery or the cables. Since if I go to start it and the headlights are on, and I go to the “start position. The headlights don’t shut off or even dim.
I also checked the fuses in the PDC (Power Distribution Center) under the hood next to the battery and everything is good. I also went and swapped a relay for the ASD control from another circuit and there was no change.
I’ll look for some additional grounds tomorrow. I checked the main ground coming from the battery and that one was fine.
What is strange is that I don’t even hear the fuel pump energize when it’s in the “ON” position as well as no responses from the gauges
The over voltage condition was found when it was measured 14.6 volts across the battery using a meter as well as the diagnostic machine.
I want to check for continuity at the pinouts on the ignition switch. Anyone happen to have a schematic for this particular switch?