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I don’t believe the OP mentioned it was posting any codes. One nice thing about the Gran Prix is if the fuel system is not being pressurized. It will display a “Check Gas Cap” message on the DIC indicating a massive failure in the system.
If the leak was caused by pin holes in the filler neck, EVAP canister or the Purge solenoid, it would register a minor leak, and post a code to the ECU.
I would think if the tank was leaking, it would have already registered a code already.
I don’t believe the OP mentioned it was posting any codes. One nice thing about the Gran Prix is if the fuel system is not being pressurized. It will display a “Check Gas Cap” message on the DIC indicating a massive failure in the system.
If the leak was caused by pin holes in the filler neck, EVAP canister or the Purge solenoid, it would register a minor leak, and post a code to the ECU.
I would think if the tank was leaking, it would have already registered a code already.
Great News. Hopefully this takes care of the issue. The 3800 Series is a great engine and pretty much bulletproof. It takes quite a bit to harm them. Yes, they may have some ancient technology, but it makes it up in reliability.
One thing to look for is the plastic coolant elbows that feed from the passenger side of the engine. They have a tendency to leak and eventually split.
Great News. Hopefully this takes care of the issue. The 3800 Series is a great engine and pretty much bulletproof. It takes quite a bit to harm them. Yes, they may have some ancient technology, but it makes it up in reliability.
One thing to look for is the plastic coolant elbows that feed from the passenger side of the engine. They have a tendency to leak and eventually split.
I’m a current owner of a 2004 Pontiac Grand Prix GT. I’ve owned it for 8 years and 180k miles. The problem your describing is the sign a dirty MAF sensor and a dirty throttle body. I’m willing to bet the start up system is something like this.
Cold Start – Starts up pretty well
Warm Start – Will start then stall and then you need to give it some gas for it to run.The Grand Prix has a drive by wire system, meaning the throttle plate is electronically controlled. Essentially what happens is that the throttle plate get’s carbon build up on it from the EGR tube and is no longer able to return to absolute zero due to the carbon buildup. This provides a false reading to the ECU of where the throttle is. To correct it’s fairly straight forward.
1. Disconnect battery
2. Remove Intake Tube from Air Box and Throttle Body.. Disconnect MAF wires.
3. Remove MAF sensor and clean with MAF cleaner. Do not use throttle or carb cleaner
4. Remove wiring from TB.
5. Remove 4 bolts from TB holding to intake.
6. Carefully remove throttle body. It’s liquid cooled and there will be some coolant spilled. but not much.
7. Clean throttle body with carb cleaner and a soft toothbrush.
8. Re-assemble is basically the just reverse.Also if you have a 2004, be aware that the LIM Gaskets are prone to leaking, since GM used a plastic gasket and they had a tendency to fail. Replacement isn’t too bad of a job either. I did mine this summer.
If you want a great resource on everything regarding he GP. Take a look here.
I’m a current owner of a 2004 Pontiac Grand Prix GT. I’ve owned it for 8 years and 180k miles. The problem your describing is the sign a dirty MAF sensor and a dirty throttle body. I’m willing to bet the start up system is something like this.
Cold Start – Starts up pretty well
Warm Start – Will start then stall and then you need to give it some gas for it to run.The Grand Prix has a drive by wire system, meaning the throttle plate is electronically controlled. Essentially what happens is that the throttle plate get’s carbon build up on it from the EGR tube and is no longer able to return to absolute zero due to the carbon buildup. This provides a false reading to the ECU of where the throttle is. To correct it’s fairly straight forward.
1. Disconnect battery
2. Remove Intake Tube from Air Box and Throttle Body.. Disconnect MAF wires.
3. Remove MAF sensor and clean with MAF cleaner. Do not use throttle or carb cleaner
4. Remove wiring from TB.
5. Remove 4 bolts from TB holding to intake.
6. Carefully remove throttle body. It’s liquid cooled and there will be some coolant spilled. but not much.
7. Clean throttle body with carb cleaner and a soft toothbrush.
8. Re-assemble is basically the just reverse.Also if you have a 2004, be aware that the LIM Gaskets are prone to leaking, since GM used a plastic gasket and they had a tendency to fail. Replacement isn’t too bad of a job either. I did mine this summer.
If you want a great resource on everything regarding he GP. Take a look here.
You didn’t happen to add any coolant lately did you? Currently there are 2 main products on the market. The traditional Green Stuff and the long life coolants. Could be orange, red or yellow. Depending on what brand you purchase.
Needless to say, the can not be mixed together. If the do, they will form a brown goo clay like material.Which will collect in the reservoir and under the coolant cap. If unchecked, it will eventually clog up your heater core and radiator.
Quoted From tehsnoodie:
sorry guys, im australian, the car im talking about is a.. i think its a chevrolet, i do know the motor is made by GM
they are called Holden Commodores over here.I’m willing to bet this is a 3800 Series V6 with the plastic upper intake manifold. If it is, this is a common problem. The EGR “Smoke Stack” runs through the intake manifold. Over time it gets hot, and will melt the seal and plastic, resulting in a coolant leak. You will also want to replace the LIM gaskets while you’re in there. The GM Dexcool has a habit of eating the plastic gaskets that were used and will produce another coolant leak.
If this is indeed the case, I would highly suggest you subscribe to this forum http://www.grandprixforums.net/general-tech-discussion/ It has a ton of information on the 3800 based cars.
Here is a great video, that reviews the process.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YZjEKSqR5Qg
My daily driver is 2004 Pontiac Grand Prix GT1
Sounds like you have air in the system. Has it been properly bled. What is the level on the coolant when you open the cap?
Quoted From Chevy92:
can you use lighter fluid to check for leaks, if you put the lighter on full jet with no flame? what exactly is a PITA system?
Please do not use lighter fluid. Your just increasing the chance to have a engine fire. Best best is to use a portable propane bottle with a torch on it.
Take the bottle and open the valve (Do not light it)and begin passing the bottle by your vacuum lines. If you have a vacuum leak, the propane will get sucked in to the leak and you will have an increase in engine RPM.
PITA = Pain In The A$$
I had a 1994 S10 with the 4.3 V6. I had to replace the fuel injection delivery part. (It sits underneath the intake manifold and has hard lines going to the injectors.) The problem is that the part begins to leak and gas is sucked directly into the intake runners causing it to run rich.
The symptoms are stalling and poor fuel mileage. Mine almost smelled acidic from the exhaust since it was burning so much gas. I actually replaced this part twice.
Quoted From dreamer2355:
Thanks for the great post on reminding us all to check the basic’s first S:)
No problem. I was relieved when I found out it was only the fuse. I was already stressing out having thoughts of another car repair.
To the credit of the Grand Prix. I’ve owned it for 7 years and it has 168,000 miles on it (I have an 80 mile daily commute). Other than putting normal maintenance into it (Brakes, Battery, Tires, Belts, Hoses) I’ve had zero issues with it. I can honestly say, it’s the best car I’ve ever owned.
I would remove the one from your truck first and see how much of a PIA it is to remove and then decide what’s your time is worth plus the chance the salvage part may be damaged.
