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Eric,
I respect your automotive knowledge and acknowledge that you most likely have more experience than me on any given mechanical subject.
However, although (as noted in my previous post) stop leak is definitely not a replacement for a proper head gasket job, and I would not even think of using it if I were able to perform a proper repair on my engine, it can be very useful as a last ditch effort to avoid having to junk a car.
Perhaps sometime I will be able to afford to have Norms NS300L thread inserts installed, but until then, my $25 solution has served me well to this point while I’m waiting to be able to afford the $2500 “proper” solution. It can likely help others who are in the same situation as well.
Eric,
I respect your automotive knowledge and acknowledge that you most likely have more experience than me on any given mechanical subject.
However, although (as noted in my previous post) stop leak is definitely not a replacement for a proper head gasket job, and I would not even think of using it if I were able to perform a proper repair on my engine, it can be very useful as a last ditch effort to avoid having to junk a car.
Perhaps sometime I will be able to afford to have Norms NS300L thread inserts installed, but until then, my $25 solution has served me well to this point while I’m waiting to be able to afford the $2500 “proper” solution. It can likely help others who are in the same situation as well.
[quote=”joeswayornoway” post=52521]no check engine light. every once in awhile it comes on and goes off before i can plug it in.[/quote]
Just because the check engine light isn’t on doesn’t mean that there will not be any codes stored.
[quote=”joeswayornoway” post=52521]no check engine light. every once in awhile it comes on and goes off before i can plug it in.[/quote]
Just because the check engine light isn’t on doesn’t mean that there will not be any codes stored.
[quote=”Skylineracer329″ post=52517]I was about to do what you did in the video, I started with a quick visual inspection of the wiring. Turns out the ground wire was cut about 6 inches from the sensor. I cut a 2 inch section of wire out and spliced in a new section. All is well now, driven 400+ miles and no CEL or symptoms[/quote]
I love it! I bet it cost you about $2.25 ;).
[quote=”Skylineracer329″ post=52517]I was about to do what you did in the video, I started with a quick visual inspection of the wiring. Turns out the ground wire was cut about 6 inches from the sensor. I cut a 2 inch section of wire out and spliced in a new section. All is well now, driven 400+ miles and no CEL or symptoms[/quote]
I love it! I bet it cost you about $2.25 ;).
I am not a professional mechanic, but I do a lot of the work on my own car. I think that some people might be too paranoid about stop leak products. I have a Cadillac with the head-gasket failure prone Northstar engine, and since I can’t afford to have a head gasket job done, I have used Bars #1111 on mine. It nearly if not completely eliminated the white smoke out the exhaust.
Although it is definitely not a replacement for a proper head gasket job, it’s been at least a year and I have not yet had any issues with a blocked heater core, etc.
Although it’s kind of maddening that a mechanic would unnecessarily put it in after doing a proper head gasket job, if I was in the market for a used truck, I would just want to find out the brand of stop leak that was used in yours and look up the reviews online to see if there were a lot of comments about clogging. If there were not, I would not have any problem at all buying it.
I am not a professional mechanic, but I do a lot of the work on my own car. I think that some people might be too paranoid about stop leak products. I have a Cadillac with the head-gasket failure prone Northstar engine, and since I can’t afford to have a head gasket job done, I have used Bars #1111 on mine. It nearly if not completely eliminated the white smoke out the exhaust.
Although it is definitely not a replacement for a proper head gasket job, it’s been at least a year and I have not yet had any issues with a blocked heater core, etc.
Although it’s kind of maddening that a mechanic would unnecessarily put it in after doing a proper head gasket job, if I was in the market for a used truck, I would just want to find out the brand of stop leak that was used in yours and look up the reviews online to see if there were a lot of comments about clogging. If there were not, I would not have any problem at all buying it.
I FIGURED IT OUT!
There didn’t seem to be any exhaust leaking under the car, and last Friday, I found an old post on a forum somewhere about someone having the same issue. They mentioned that they had cleaned the EGR valve, so I figured with two bolts and a connector being all that needs to come off to remove it, I might as well try.
I held the valve in basically the same position that it is installed (meaning I didn’t turn it upside down) and sprayed in the opening with throttle body cleaner (not carb cleaner). I then used a “pipe cleaner” to clean the inside, and I also worked the plunger up and down after I sprayed it.
I had a few “false alarms” in the past thinking it was fixed, so I wanted to wait until I was sure before posting. I now have to lose the habit of constantly glancing at the tach to see if it’s about to stall.
Thank you to everyone who posted here to help me. It would be interesting to know why cleaning the EGR valve fixed it.
I FIGURED IT OUT!
There didn’t seem to be any exhaust leaking under the car, and last Friday, I found an old post on a forum somewhere about someone having the same issue. They mentioned that they had cleaned the EGR valve, so I figured with two bolts and a connector being all that needs to come off to remove it, I might as well try.
I held the valve in basically the same position that it is installed (meaning I didn’t turn it upside down) and sprayed in the opening with throttle body cleaner (not carb cleaner). I then used a “pipe cleaner” to clean the inside, and I also worked the plunger up and down after I sprayed it.
I had a few “false alarms” in the past thinking it was fixed, so I wanted to wait until I was sure before posting. I now have to lose the habit of constantly glancing at the tach to see if it’s about to stall.
Thank you to everyone who posted here to help me. It would be interesting to know why cleaning the EGR valve fixed it.
Thank you for the replies. I guess I’ll have to find someone to help me hold a rag over both sides of the dual exhaust while I get under the car.
Thank you for the replies. I guess I’ll have to find someone to help me hold a rag over both sides of the dual exhaust while I get under the car.
I tried my best to inspect the exhaust system today, and I included a few photos. The exhaust manifolds can’t be seen from above the car, and are difficult to see from below. Below are a few photos of some parts of the system in case anyone wants to point out anything about it.
I also took a video of my car idling (not completely warmed up). It seems to idle pretty smoothly; when I get a chance, I’ll try to post a video of the dash when I’m coasting around 25 MPH.
I tried my best to inspect the exhaust system today, and I included a few photos. The exhaust manifolds can’t be seen from above the car, and are difficult to see from below. Below are a few photos of some parts of the system in case anyone wants to point out anything about it.
I also took a video of my car idling (not completely warmed up). It seems to idle pretty smoothly; when I get a chance, I’ll try to post a video of the dash when I’m coasting around 25 MPH.
